Jewelry News Network

One could say that the latest Faidee creation is an expression of the esteemed company’s 100-plus year history spanning four generations.

The family owned firm that specializes exclusively in Burmese rubies unveiled “The Grand Phoenix” during the Baselworld watch and jewelry trade show in Basel, Switzerland.

Even for a company with the pedigree of Faidee—known for dealing with exceptional rubies (and Kashmir sapphires) and creating equally exceptional and extremely expensive jewels—this is something special.

The regal necklace made of 24 “super exceptional” unheated Burmese rubies totaling 59.83 carats. The individual rubies range in weight from one to six carats. The “pigeon’s blood” gems are accented with 100.21 carats of colorless, flawless and internally flawless fancy shaped diamonds—the highest color and clarity grades. This ruby and diamond combination in a flower motif is Faidee signature creation.

The necklace is valued at $35 million, said Ravi Lunia, Faidee director.

“The Grand Phoenix is an exceptional masterpiece; a collection of flawless rubies spanning over four generations,” Lunia said. “To find a single exceptional ruby of this caliber is a daunting task but with our passion and burning desire to excel beyond perfection, we’ve managed a miracle that has never been attained in the history of the jewelry industry.”

The press conference also served to announce that The Phoenix Necklace will be the centerpiece of a jewelry exhibition of Faidee’s creative jewels and private ruby collection. The exhibition will be presented by the Stardust Monte-Carlo, a longtime Monaco-based luxury jeweler. It will be held at the Hotel Hermitage, Salon Belle Epoque, Monte-Carlo, August 1 - August 21.

At the press conference with Lunia was Claudio Siffredi, owner of the Stardust Monte-Carlo.

The necklace was on display on the neck of Faidee’s Ambassador, Anna Andres, a Ukrainian lawyer, actress and model who holds the title of Miss Ukraine Universe 2014.

For more than 100 years Faidee has been known as the premiere company that deals exclusively in Burmese rubies—known for their intense, vivid red hues (“pigeon’s blood” is the term used to describe this coloration). The family owned firm has history of creating jewels with these gems that are sold privately and through the international auction market easily selling for millions of dollars. Most recently, the “Ratnaraj,” a 10.05-carat ruby set on a diamond ring sold for more than $10.2 million at Christie’s Hong Kong (more than $1 million per carat).

It’s going to be a long time before Faidee tops this latest achievement.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Hermès ' booth at Baselworld 2017, the French brand is reportedly the next to leave Baselworld and moving to SIHH. Photo courtesy of Baselworld

Reacting to the several years of declining exhibitors and attendance, the organizers of Baselworld, the world’s largest watch and jewelry fair, announced that it will reduce the annual fair from eight to six days and drop prices accordingly, beginning 2018.

Next year, the world’s largest watch and jewelry fair will be held March 22 – 27, 2018.

At a time when the fair has reached the milestone of 100 years, official figures from Baselworld 2017 paint a picture of a fair that is in decline. Buyers were down 4 percent year-over-year to 106,000. About 4,400 journalists attended, which is the same as the prior year. The largest drop was in exhibitors, 13.3 percent from a year ago, from 1,500 to 1,300.

In addition, according to a report in the Le Temps, the Swiss daily French language newspaper, Hermès is leaving for Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), the luxury watch trade fair held January in Geneva, and likely Dior and one other fashion brand will follow.

This information is unconfirmed at this point.

Sylvie Ritter, managing director of Baselworld, said the watch and jewelry industry is going through a challenging phase that particularly affects smaller companies.

“Listening to our exhibitors and in agreement with the members of the different committees, we have decided to reduce the duration of the show and adjust the prices accordingly … with the traditional press day on March 21,” she said. “Baselworld will maintain the attractiveness of the show and its global impact by remaining faithful to our strategy which favors quality and leverages diversity in all sectors.”

This acknowledgement was a contrast to the defiant stance Baselworld officials took at the annual press conference prior to the show’s opening on March 22. There they said it was their decision to turn away exhibitors to focus on “quality over quantity.”

Ritter at the time said, “We have turned away exhibitors who are not in line with our concept and do not meet the criteria for Baselworld.” However, she refused to define this criterion.

At the same press conference, Eric Bertrand, president of the Baselworld Exhibitors’ Committee, took direct aim at fashion brands.

“Certain number of brands that are fashion related took watches to get into the industry and they treat it like an accessory … like glasses and spectacles and other components (it) becomes an element (that) adds value to the image but are not related to our industry,” Bertrand said. “Now I believe these people did not obtain the results they planned and have given up producing such products.”

This acknowledgement of exhibitor complaints also comes a bit late as the decline in exhibitors began in 2013 when the fair unveiled a $454.5-million upgrade of the Messe Basel Fairgrounds, where the show is held each year. At the time show organizers substantially raised prices and made other demands to exhibitors—such as buying additional space and providing better designs for their booths, according to several exhibitors I’ve spoken to over the years.

Smaller companies, particularly jewelry firms, began leaving the fair, complaining they have been priced out. This past year, a few larger watch brands left, including U.S.-based Shinola, U.K.-based Bremont and Swiss-based Timex Group Swiss Luxury Division, which manages the watch business for luxury fashion brands Salvatore Ferragamo, Versace, Versus and Nautica.

The Baselworld officials and committees who ultimately made the decision to cut the show by two days, in addition to Ritter and Bertrand, are: François Thiébaud, president of the Swiss Exhibitors’ Committee, and Rene Kamm, CEO of MCH Group, which operates Messe Basel.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Patek Philippe Reference 2499, Second Series. Photo courtesy of Phillips

Four Patek Philippe watches sold and signed by Tiffany & Co. will be among the top items at the Phillips and Bacs & Russo Geneva watch auction, being held May 13 and 14 at Hôtel La Réserve. Other highlights of the sale include seven rare Rolex watches, a collection of cloisonné enamel timepieces and more collectible Patek watches.

The selection of Patek Philippe watches retailed and signed by Tiffany & Co. are as follows:

Patek Philippe Reference 2499, Second Series (above and top photo)
An extremely rare yellow gold perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch with moon phase retailed by Tiffany & Co., circa 1960, with an estimate of nearly $1 million - $2 million. Reference 2499 was introduced in 1951 and was made for a period of 34 years, in four different series, a total of 349 pieces were made, “making this a highly exclusive reference in the company’s history,” the auction house says. There are only two reference 2499 second series with a Tiffany & Co. signature on the dial that are known, one with Arabic numerals and the other, the piece for sale, with baton indexes.

Patek Philippe World Time Wristwatch, Reference 2523/1
An extremely rare 18k gold dual crown world time wristwatch with 24-hour indication retailed by Tiffany & Co., circa 1963, has an estimate of nearly $900,000 - $1.8 million. Launched in 1953, reference 2523 featured a two-crown system, one for winding the watch and the other at 9 o’clock controlling the city disc. Two versions were available, reference 2523 with larger lugs sitting above the bezel and reference 2523/1 with a slightly larger diameter and thinner lugs. There are believed to be only nine reference 2523/1 known in all case metal and dial combinations, with only one having the Tiffany & Co. signature, according to the auction house.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar, Reference 3450
This piece is described as a “highly exclusive” yellow gold perpetual calendar watch with moon phases and "red dot" leap year indicator retailed by Tiffany & Co., circa 1985. Its estimate is nearly $220,000 - $320,000. Introduced in 1981 as the successor of reference 3448, Patek Philippe’s first self-winding perpetual calendar watch, the reference 3450 houses the 27-460 QB caliber. There are five accounted for Tiffany & Co. signed reference 3450s to have been offered at public auctions, according to the auction house.

Patek Philippe Reference 2597
A rare gold wristwatch with a separate adjustable hour hand retailed by Tiffany & Co., circa 1961, with an estimate of nearly $70,000 - $120,000. Based on Louis Cottier’s “Time Zone Watch” system developed in 1959, the reference 2597 was made in two versions. The first generation models, such as the one being sold, feature an independently adjustable hour hand using pushers found on the left side of the case for setting the hour hand forward or backwards in one-hour increments, according to the auction house. The second version, launched in 1962, featured an additional hour hand. It is one of only a few known 2597 models with the Tiffany & Co signature.

Other standouts include a selection of vintage and modern timepieces featuring cloisonné enamel, including a Patek Philippe yellow gold pocket watch with cloisonné enamel dial depicting North America, reference 605 HU (estimate at nearly $300,000 - $600,000), and a Patek Philippe mechanical cloisonné enamel dome table clock, ref. 743E, made in 1959 (estimate at nearly $120,000 - $250,000).

Other exceptional Patek Philippe watches include a “fresh-to-the-market” perpetual calendar in rose gold – “The Tasmanian Rose” (estimate at nearly $400,000 - $800,000). This reference 2497 comes directly from the son of the original Australian owner, where it spent nearly 50 years unworn in a vault. Another highlight is a pink gold split seconds chronograph with pink dial, one of only nine known, reference 1436 (estimate at nearly $350,000 - $550,000).

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of Cartier’s Tank watch, the sale will include a selection of “rare and highly desirable” variants of the Tank.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Unique pair of ruby and diamond bangles by Bhagat and a diamond, sapphire and emerald ‘Panthère’ Ring by Cartier.All photos courtesy of Sotheby's

Among the approximate 196 lots at Sotheby’s Hong Kong “Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Spring Sale” are an Art Deco mystery clock by Cartier, a pair of ruby and diamond bangles by famed Indian designer, Bhagat, and a gem and diamond necklace by Mauboussin.

You may have also heard about a particular 59.60-carat pink diamond known as the “Pink Star.”

While the focus will be deservedly on the Pink Star, there are many other jewels, gems and art objects that will be offered at the April 4 sale at the at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Among the highlights are:

Art Deco Gem Set and Diamond Mystery Clock, ‘Le Ciel’ by Cartier, 1928
This collection of clocks produced by Cartier between 1922 and 1931 incorporated antique Chinese jade carvings from the 18th and 19th centuries. Le Ciel is one of only thirteen clocks from the collection still known to exist, according to the auction house. The dial is embellished with bejeweled shooting stars and planets on a night sky. The dial is supported by two antique jade carps. Its estimate is $1.36 million - $1.81 million.

Important Jadeite and Diamond Demi-Parure
Being a Hong Kong sale, jadeite will always play starring role. The necklace in this set consists of seven highly translucent oval jadeite cabochons of brilliant emerald green color, embellished with circular-cut diamonds. It comes with a matching set of jadeite cabochon earrings. Its estimate is $2.58 million $3.87 million.

Gem Set and Diamond Pendent Necklace by Mauboussin
This colorful necklace by the Parisian jeweler features circular- and single-cut diamonds, embellished with sapphires, rubies and emeralds, accented by black enamel. The diamonds weigh approximately 18 carats. Its estimate is $765,000 - $970,000.

Fine Diamond Bracelet by Harry Winston
Designed as six rows of pear-shaped diamonds decorated with circular-cut diamonds, the platinum necklace has a total diamond weight of approximately 124.06 carats. Its estimate is $258,000 - $323,000.

Unique Pair of Ruby and Diamond Bangles by Bhagat
Sotheby’s refers to the Indian jewelry brand as “one of the greatest living jewelers,” with works that represent a fusion of artistry and craftsmanship that draws inspiration from classic Indian themes. Each bangle is set with 38 oval rubies (60 carats), to the edge of floral motifs embellished with circular-cut diamonds (30 carats). Its estimate is $252,000 - $361,000.

Diamond, Sapphire and Emerald ‘Panthère’ Ring by Cartier
This panther ring is pavé-set with circular-cut diamonds weighing approximately 4.50 carats, embellished with sapphire spots, emerald eyes and an onyx nose, mounted in platinum. Its estimate is $194,000 - 258,000.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

The “Pink Star” diamond has been sold for a world record price of $71.2 million at Sotheby's Hong Kong “Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Spring Sale.” After the sale, Sotheby’s announced that the buyer was Hong Kong-based jewelry retailer Chow Tai Fook.

The price shattered the previous record of $57.5 million held by the Oppenheimer Blue, which sold a year ago at Christie’s Geneva auction.

Bidding, led by David Bennett, worldwide chairman of international jewelry at Sotheby's, for the 59.80-carat diamond was quick and was dominated by three phone bidders. The price began at 440 million Hong Kong dollars ($56.62 million) and paused at 475 million until a new bidder on the phone increased the price to 480 million. After a long pause it inched up to 485 million than 490 million, which was final bid. Polite applause followed the bang of hammer. The buyer's premium pushed the price to 553 million Hong Kong dollars.

The oval-shaped internally flawless fancy vivid pink diamond took an unusual journey to end up at this Hong Kong sale. It was first sold for $83 million at Sotheby's Geneva in November 2013, a figure that remains the highest ever for a diamond to this day. However, the consortium of buyers, led by diamond cutter Isaac Wolf, defaulted on the purchase. It remained in Sotheby’s possession, valued at $72 million, until today’s sale.

The Pink Star is graded as Type IIa, which is rare for any pink diamond, much less one of this size and color. It originated from a 132.5-carat rough mined by De Beers in 1999. It was cut by Steinmetz Diamonds over a period of nearly two years. The diamond was first unveiled to the public in May 2003 as the “Steinmetz Pink.” The stone was first sold privately in 2007 and renamed The Pink Star.

The Pink Star is more than twice the size of the Graff Pink, which at 24.78 carats was previously the largest pink diamond ever sold at auction, fetching $46.2 million, at Sotheby’s Geneva in 2010.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Hugh Jackman (L) and Diane Kruger attend the Montblanc & UNICEF Gala Dinner. Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris

Montblanc held a star-studded gala Monday to showcase its long-term support of the United Nations Children’s Fund, better known as UNICEF, and to launch a multi-media campaign that continues this support with new products and by encouraging others to participate in literacy activism.

The event at the Stephen A. Schwarzman Building, the main branch of the New York Public Library, was attended by Montblanc brand ambassadors Hugh Jackman and Charlotte Casiraghi; and friends of the brand, including Diane Kruger, Olivia Palermo, Elsa Hosk, Rami Malek and Johannes Huebl.

Guests dine inside the Stephen A. Schwarzman Building during the Montblanc & UNICEF Gala. Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris

The brand used the event to unveil the “Montblanc for UNICEF” writing instruments, stationary, leather goods, watches and jewelry.

The “Writing Is A Gift Collection” is now available at Montblanc boutiques and on Montblanc’s website. For every piece in the collection sold till March 31, 2018, Montblanc will donate 3 percent of the proceeds to support UNICEF and its literacy projects, with a minimum amount of $1.5 million guaranteed by Montblanc. UNICEF does not endorse any brand or product.

The new collection features the “UNICEF Blue” signature color and the letters from the six different alphabets that children use when they first learn to write.

Watches from the Montblanc for UNICEF collection on display during the Montblanc & UNICEF Gala. Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris

Among the pieces in the collection, the Meisterstück, “Writing is a Gift Edition,” is an original twist on Montblanc’s iconic writing instrument with the UNICEF alphabet-inspired design. Each pen in the collection has a blue sapphire that signifies the bond between Montblanc and UNICEF. The leather goods feature blue lining with the same alphabet characters. Two editions of the Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum Timepieces pair a manufacture worldtime complication with symbolic references to UNICEF.

In brief words Jackman said the initiative was a “win-win” situation.

“We can have something of beauty, things we can enjoy and have for the rest of our lives and at the same we give back to people who don’t have … access to education, he said. “Education isn’t a privilege, it is a right. It is a great honor to be ambassadors for a company that supports things that really matter.”

Montblanc CEO Nicolas Baretzi (L) and Hugh Jackman attend the Montblanc & UNICEF Gala Dinner.Photo byDimitrios Kambouris

The event was co-hosted by Nicolas Baretzki, Montblanc CEO, and Jo Bourne, UNICEF’s chief of education, Program Division. For Baretzki, it was his first public appearance as head of the brand since taking over the top spot April 1, replacing Jérôme Lambert—who was promoted to a corporate position with Montblanc’s parent company, Richemont.

It is appropriate that a luxury brand best-known for creating fine writing instruments would be in the forefront of a worldwide child literacy and education initiative. Over a 13-year period Montblanc said it has donated approximately $10 million to UNICEF. Over the years this funding, it says, has improved learning conditions for more than 5 million children throughout the world by providing quality learning materials and better teaching.

The venue chosen for the occasion, a library, particularly the Beaux Arts designed structure with high ceilings, sculpted marble and bronze, was an equally appropriate choice.

This theme and the craftsmanship that went into the collection were on display through skilled artisan demonstrations.

Guests receive custom name cards by a calligrapher during the Montblanc & UNICEF Gala Dinner.Photo by Dimitrios Kambouris

The event also served as the beginning of a campaign that aims to pass on the gift of writing even further through its key message: “Writing opens up the world. Pass on this precious gift.” The campaign will feature Jackman in print and online.

Jackman noted that people don’t have to buy a product to be involved in this initiative. One way for anyone to be involved is by sharing their emotional memories about writing with a photo of a handwritten memory on social channels using the hashtags #PassItOn, #Montblanc, #UNICEF #foreverychild.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Rihanna, who has worked with Chopard for the past few years, has now extended this relationship to produce a new line of jewelry with the luxury brand. Known as “Rihanna ♥ Chopard,” it consists of high jewelry pieces and limited collection of jewels made with “Fairmined” gold.

The luxury brand released two images of the Rihanna ♥ Chopard Haute Joaillerie Collection that will be officially be unveiled May 2017 to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the Festival de Cannes red carpet and celebrate Chopard’s 20th year as the official partner of the Cannes Film Festival. They are a one-of-a-kind floral inspired multi-colored chandelier earrings and marquise-cut diamond solitaire ring.

Earrings in 18k white gold and titanium set with blue, pink and yellow sapphires, tsavorites, rubellites, green beryls, aquamarines, Paraiba tourmalines, rubies, amethysts, topazs, lazulites and diamonds.

The world-renowned signer and fashion icon did provide a discreet look at the two new pieces. At the recent Grammy Awards, she wore the floral earrings and on the March 2017 cover of Harper’s Bazaar, she wore the transformable diamond earrings. Chopard said the high jewelry collection is inspired by Rihanna’s island roots—the lush gardens of Barbados and the bright colors of Carnival.

Earrings in 18k white ethical gold certified ‘Fairmined’ featuring four pear-shaped diamonds (9.7cts) and set with brilliant-cut (5.2cts), pear-shaped (4.7cts), oval-cut and marquise-cut diamonds. All diamonds are sourced from a producer who is a RJC certified member.

The second collection is the limited edition Rihanna ♥ Chopard Joaillerie Collection is defined by minimalist geometry and sharp, clean lines. It is based on Chopard’s classic Ice Cube shape with a mix what the luxury brand describes as “a synergy of urban modernism and pure design.”

Linear rectangular motifs link frosty rose gold cubes with solid ceramic blocks in a color personally selected by Rihanna and named “Jungle Green.” Crafted from ethical 18k Fairmined rose gold, the nine-piece capsule collection will be available with icy polished or diamond set gold cubes. Fairmined is an assurance label that certifies gold from empowered responsible artisanal and small-scale mining organizations who meet world leading standards for responsible practices.

The collection’s unveiling today coincides with the release of a global advertising campaign featuring Rihanna. Pieces will be available in June with pre-orders online at www.chopard.com/us/rihanna-loves-chopard and Chopard boutiques starting today.

Necklace in 18k rose ethical gold certified Fairmined and green ceramic.

To create the collection, Rihanna teamed with Caroline Scheufele, Chopard co-president and creative director.

Rihanna in recent years has worn Chopard jewels on red carpets at major events so the two described this collaboration as natural.

“I have always been in love with Chopard’s exquisite jewelry, so to actually design collections with them is something I still can't believe,” Rihanna said in a statement.

“Rihanna and I collaborated closely on the collections so you can feel her unstoppable energy, strong creativity, and inherent sense of design in every piece,” Scheufele added. “With her unique style, she redefines the way people see and wear jewelry.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Richard Mille RM008

The appeal of contemporary independent watchmaker, Richard Mille, continues to grow. Demand has now extended to the auction market, where his rare, expensive and technically advanced timepieces are earning a following among collectors.

All four Richard Mille watches (including a women’s watch) on offer sold at the Sotheby’s Hong Kong Important Watch Sale with two of them among the top five lots. It was one of the main stories at April 5 auction where collectors were attracted to a variety of established and contemporary brands.

“Collectors’ interest has become increasingly diverse, with the top ten lots comprising not only traditionally sought-after brands, but also complex models and those by independent watchmakers,” said Jessie Kang, Sotheby’s head of Watches, Asia. “Unique designs and rare pieces remain popular, with all four Richard Mille watches on offer sold. Bidding from 33 countries was vibrant, with many new buyers in the sale room and a number of Sotheby’s existing clients exploring the field of watch collecting for the first time.”

The top lot wasn’t a watch but a clock and art object. The Cartier “Flamingo and Lotus Automaton Clock” sold for $537,924, above estimate. It features a bejeweled flamingo and lotus set on an 18k yellow gold rectangular base set with onyx and gray mottled hardstone. One of four large round lapis lazuli buttons activates the lotus automaton. The top of the base is in mother-of-pearl with a large yellow diamond and diamond-set lotus. Its ten petals open to reveal the dial, all on nephrite leaves. The large flamingo standing on one leg is covered with brilliant-cut diamonds. Its plumage set with square-cut sapphires, rubies and emeralds, with the beak made of pink hardstone and onyx. Sapphire eyes are the final touch.

The top lot among watches was the Richard Mille RM008, a pink gold tourbillon split seconds chronograph (top photo) that sold for $383,053. This highly complicated watch is powered by the manually wound caliber RM-008/1 with a one-minute tourbillon carriage visible at 6 o'clock with compensation balance, semi-skeletonized matte charcoal dial, two subdials for constant seconds and 30-minute register, outer scale calibrated for tachymeter, fan-form power reserve indicator at 11 o'clock position and torque indicator at 1 o'clock. It’s all housed in an 18k pink gold tonneau-shaped case.

The third lot of the sale fell to one of the most popular brands on the auction market, Patek Philippe, with a pink gold minute repeater perpetual calendar, reference 5013, which sold for $352,611, within its estimate.

A Jaeger-LeCoultre white gold Spherotourbillon watch with date, flyback seconds and power reserve indicator, was the fourth highest seller, fetching $281,509.

Rounding out the top five was the Richard Mille RM 015 “Tourbillon Perini Navi.” It’s inspired by the sailing vessels of the yacht builders Perini Navi of Viareggio. The white gold tonneau-shaped semi-skeleton Tourbillon timepiece fetched an above-estimate, $273,466.

The sale at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre took in more than $7.4 million, with 75.2% sold by lot and 84.8% sold by value. A total of 303 lots were on offer.

“We are pleased with the solid results and the healthy sell-through rate of the sale,” Kang said.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

A 92-carat D Flawless heart shaped diamond is estimated to fetch $14 - $20 million at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale, being held May 17 at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues.

The diamond is beings sold as the centerpiece of a cultured pearl necklace with the name, La Légende. The piece was created by Boehmer et Bassenge, a high jewelry house that was launched a year ago.

La Légende, a cultured pearl necklace, by Boehmer et Bassenge, featuring a 92.15 carats, D, Flawless heart-shaped diamond

The heart-shaped diamond is the highlight of an international tour of jewels in the upcoming sale—making stops in Hong Kong (March 30 – April 2), London (April 10 – 12) and New York (April 21 – 25 and May 5 – 8).

La Légende is one of two jewels by Boehmer et Bassenge that will be part of the Geneva auction and the worldwide preview of jewels and gems. The other is La Vie Bohème, chandelier earrings, each with an asymmetrical pink diamond bow, a pear-shaped diamond connecting link, and each suspending a marquise-cut diamond weighing approximately 10.07 and 10.05 carats. Each drop is a D color, flawless clarity diamond. The estimate is $2 - $3 million.

The May 17 auction at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, will feature approximately 250 jewels. It will include diamond and ruby earrings and bracelet once owned by Elizabeth Taylor, a Cartier and Art Déco collection assembled by Cartier expert Éric Nussbaum and Italian jewelry designs from the 1900s to the present day in a dedicated "Dolce Vita" section. Among other highlights:

A 15.03-carat unheated Burmese ruby set on a diamond ring with an estimate of $10 - $15 million.

A 14.88-carat unheated Kashmir sapphire set on a diamond ring with an estimate of $1 - $1.5 million.

A Cartier diamond and platinum fringe necklace once owned by the late Doris Duke is part of the sale. The 20th Century heiress purchased the necklace at Cartier New York in 1937 for $65,000. The mounting alone was auctioned by Christie’s in 2004 as Duke removed all of the larger diamonds for use in her other jewels. The buyer spent years replacing all of the missing stones with age appropriate diamonds, Christie’s said. It will now be offered at the Geneva sale with an estimate of 3-5 million.

The sale also includes a number of colored diamonds and signed jewels from Boucheron, Cartier, Harry Winston and JAR.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Lagos, the nationally known luxury jewelry brand, has teamed with The Rittenhouse hotel in Philadelphia for a special caviar-based promotion to raise funds for autism research.

The luxury hotel is using the month of April (Autism Awareness Month) to launch its new private-label caviar—a 30-gram tin of oscietra caviar from Sturia, the flagship brand of French caviar producer Sturgeon.

Throughout the month, guests at the hotel’s restaurants—Lacroix, Bar210 and the Library Bar—can order “The Caviar Experience” package, which includes The Rittenhouse private-label caviar with traditional accompaniments, a bottle of one of Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2004 champagne. The food a drink course will be paired with the Lagos Black Caviar enamel beaded bracelet with pavé diamonds set in sterling silver with 18k gold accents. Caviar is the signature line of jewelry created by the Philadelphia-based jewelry brand.

The cost of the package is $2,150 with 15% of proceeds going to Autism Speaks—a national organization that promotes solutions for individuals with autism and their families through advocacy and support.

Guests who wish to tie in the caviar package with a hotel stay at The Rittenhouse’s suites can book it ahead of time. Rates start at $4,000 with 15% of proceeds going to Autism Speaks.

Sylvain Briens, The Rittenhouse food and beverage director, said the partnership made sense for a number of reasons. First, the name of Lagos' iconic jewelry line shared the name of the promotion; second, the company is based in Philadelphia; and third, because Lagos has a branded boutique at Rittenhouse Square, near the hotel.

“We can’t think of a better way to launch our private-label caviar than by working with our Rittenhouse Square neighbor and highlighting their signature Caviar line,” Briens said. “Being able to also contribute to a charity we are all passionate about is a great bonus.”

For more information about this promotion, visit lacroixrestaurant.com or call 215-790-2525.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Courtesy of Sotheby's

A mismatched pair of fancy colored earrings, offered as individual lots, will lead Sotheby’s spring sale of Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, May 16 at the Mandarin Oriental, Geneva. Together the auction house says they make up the most valuable set of earrings ever sold at auction.

“The Apollo Blue,” a 14.54-carat fancy vivid blue diamond, will be presented with an estimate of $38 – $50 million and “The Artemis Pink,” a 16-carat fancy intense pink diamond, has an estimate of $12.5 – $18 million.

“The Apollo and Artemis diamonds will be the stars of our May sale in Geneva—by far the most important pair of earrings ever offered at auction,” said David Bennett, worldwide chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division. “These exquisite colored diamonds are enormously rare and each is a wonderful stone in its own right. Together, as a pair of earrings, they are breathtaking.”

They are named after Apollo and Artemis, a twin brother and sister among the most widely venerated of the Ancient Greek deities.

The pear-shaped Apollo Blue is the largest internally flawless fancy vivid blue diamond ever to be offered at auction, Sotheby’s said. It was graded as a Type IIb diamond, which amounts to less than 1% of all diamonds. In recent years, the only mine to produce blue diamonds with any regularity is the Cullinan mine in South Africa. When in full production, less than 0.1% of diamonds sourced showed any evidence of blue color, according to the Gemological Institute of America, which graded both diamonds and issued reports on them. An infinitesimally small percentage of those is graded Fancy Vivid Blue.

The pear-shaped Artemis Pink, graded by the GIA as a Type IIa diamond, describing this category as “the most chemically pure type” of diamonds. The occurrence of pink diamonds remains exceedingly rare: according to the GIA, of all diamonds submitted to their specialists each year, ‘no more than 3% are classified as colored diamonds; less than 5% of those colored diamonds are predominantly pink’.

“Thus, a fancy intense pink stone of such rich color and impressive size can only be described as phenomenally rare,” the auction house said.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

A fancy colored diamond and diamond ring is the top lot of Bonhams New York Fine Jewelry sale. The jewel is centered with a 6.32-carat European cut fancy vivid, yellow diamond set between two old mine cut diamonds. Its estimate is $400,000 - 600,000.

Referring to the old European cut of the diamond, Susan Abeles, director of US Jewelry at Bonhams, said: “This old fashioned cutting style, rarely found in today’s market, epitomizes old world charm, brilliance and, above all, depth of color,”

It one of two colored diamonds jewels that will lead the April 24 sale. The other is a fancy colored diamond and diamond necklace by William Goldberg.

The modern-design necklace is set with 17 cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamonds, weighing a total of 47.34 carats. Each yellow diamond is set within a round brilliant-cut diamond surround and enhanced by baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds. The central fancy yellow diamond weighs 5.02 carats and graded as internally flawless. Its estimate is $350,000 - $550,000.

The sale includes a variety of gems and jewels including signed pieces from Cartier, Verdura and René Boivin; statement sapphires and emeralds; and collectable items from the Art Deco period, the 1960s and 1970s.

While the colored diamond lots are expected to be the top earners, the most interesting pieces are the signed jewels, which showcase variety, colorful precious materials, fine design and craftsmanship. They cover a number of periods.

Perhaps the most notable signed piece is a fine ruby and diamond clip brooch by Cartier, circa 1935. It reflects the evolution of style from Art Deco to Art Moderne, Abeles said. “Gone are the strong, flat, colorful, geometric lines as these were replaced by the more sculptural aesthetic found in jewelry of the mid-1930s.”

The brooch is geometrically designed and centers on a 3.54-carat marquise mixed-cut Burmese unheated ruby. The central ruby has a pavé-set frame of baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds, further enhanced by round cabochon and sugarloaf rubies and accented with square step-cut diamonds. Its estimate is $300,000 - $400,000.

“From the mid-1930s Cartier created and sold predominantly sculptural, mono-chromatic and diamond jewelry. While gemstone preferences of sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, topaz and turquoise can be found, very few ruby examples exist,” Abeles said. “This particular clip brooch provides an elaborate, yet simple, showcase for an exquisite gemstone. The brooch is a real collector’s item given the Cartier name, the era and composition.”

Other signed jewels of note include:

An aquamarine and diamond “Feuille De Platane” brooch by René Boivin, circa 1950, featuring a 21.90-carat, heart-shaped aquamarine enhanced by textured gold leaves and adorned with old European-cut diamonds. Its estimate is $20,000 - $25,000.

A citrine and 14k rose gold brooch by Verdura, 1941, with an estimate of $5,000 - $7,000.

Original Blue Book Tiffany “Lily Of The Valley” designed by Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co., 1969. It is the original prototype for the 1969 Tiffany & Co. Blue Book brooch. The inspiration for this jewel comes from the French custom of giving Lily of the Valleys on the first of May to celebrate spring and as a good luck charm. The brooch is composed of eleven en tremblant lilies, set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, to a gold stem with green enamel leaves. Its estimate is $5,000 - $7,000.

The oldest piece of jewelry being offered is an antique pair of emerald and gold earrings dating back to circa 1800, estimated at $3,000 - 5,000.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

The year, 1957, was a very productive one for Omega. The Swiss watch brand released three watches—the Seamaster 300, Railmaster and Speedmaster—all became an instant hit and a classic within their product categories.

This year, Omega is celebrating the 60th anniversary for each watch by presenting a limited edition of each model and a special “trilogy” edition.

Omega employed digital scanning technology to create accurate representations of the original watches—including cross-sections and dimensions. This, along with drawings of the original models, served as design templates for the new watches, which were slightly revised but remain true to the 1957 models.

All three watches are cased in brushed and polished stainless steel and feature black “tropical” dials. The stainless steel bracelets feature a retro-style Omega logo on the clasp. All of the logos on the watches are in a different style—a reference to how individual suppliers in the 1950s interpreted the Omega logo.

Each watch is limited to 3,557 pieces and delivered inside a presentation box inspired by the original 1957 packaging, including the Seahorse on the lid, a retro logo and red corduroy lining—with two spare straps; leather and NATO; and a tool to change them.

The Seamaster 300 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Master Chronometer 39mm
The very first Seamaster 300 was sought after for its water-resistance, black dial, broad arrow hour hand, bi-directional diving bezel, and recessed triangular hour markers. The 2017 model, based on the CK2913, features a black aluminum bezel and retains the original Naïad sign on the crown, which back in 1957 was a mark of the watch’s water resistance. The Seahorse on the caseback also refers to the original in 1957. It is powered by the Omega Master Chronometer caliber 8806 and comes with a four-year warranty.

The Railmaster 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Master Chronometer 38mm
The double-case anti-magnetic watch was designed for scientists, technicians or anyone who worked close to electrical fields. The original’s unpretentious style has been carried over into the 2017 model, though the vintage indexes are slightly deepened to allow a stronger light from the Super-LumiNova filling. The watch is powered by the Omega Master Chronometer caliber 8806, which can resist magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss and comes with a four-year warranty.

The Speedmaster 60th Anniversary Limited Edition 38.6mm
The original Speedmaster, called the “Broad Arrow,” due to its distinctive hands, was not only the first Speedmaster, it was also the first chronograph wristwatch with a tachymeter scale on the bezel as opposed to printed on the dial—a feature designed for race car drivers. On the new model, the font was redrawn to match the scale of the original 1957 tachymeter. It is powered by the Omega 1861 caliber.

The Trilogy presentation box
Omega has created a 557-piece limited edition package and engravings for those who purchase all three 60th anniversary models. The outer-box, made of Swiss oak wood, is engraved with the 1957 Seahorse on the lid and a front-plate engraved with “Trilogy 60th Anniversary, 001/557.”

Inside is a smaller box, inspired by the 1957 version, which contains all three watches. Each dial is printed with “TRILOGY” and the Limited Edition number; and each caseback is engraved with "LIMITED TO 557 TIMEPIECES.”

The larger box also includes a leather watch roll with three spare leather and NATO straps; and a wooden spring bar changing tool.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Gold, diamond and fire opal brooch/pendant, 1970, by Andrew Grima. All photos courtesy of Bonhams except where noted

All of the big names, including Cartier, Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels, will be part of the Bonhams London Fine Jewelry sale on April 27. However, the auction house will also feature the works of several contemporary jewelry artists, led by Andrew Grima.

Jean Ghika, head of Jewellery for Bonhams UK & Europe, was particularly excited about the five pieces by Grima that will be included in the sale. She says the Anglo-Italian jewelry designer, known for his modern works in the 1960s and ’70s, is a “pioneer of his day” who placed a strong emphasis on textures and conceptual designs.

“It wasn’t about the stones but the concept,” she said during a recent meeting at Bonhams London headquarters. “He was very instep with the changing trends. He represented an interest in jewelry as an art form rather than a conglomerate of stones.”

The Grima pieces she highlighted are:

Jean Ghika, head of Jewellery for Bonhams UK & Europe
displays the Andrew Grima pendant.Photo by Anthony DeMarco

A gold, diamond and fire opal brooch/pendant, 1970, with the oval-cut opal set among an abstract arrangement of textured 18k gold cinnamon sticks, with a brilliant-cut diamond accent. Its estimate is £5,000 - £7,000 ($6,275 - $8,800).

A rutilated quartz, cultured pearl and diamond torque necklace, 1990, with the textured torque suspended at the front by a carved rutilated quartz “apple” with brilliant-cut diamond highlights, surmounted by a grey cultured pearl and brushed leaves. Its estimate is £7,000 - £10,000 ($8,800 - $12,500).

A color change sapphire and diamond ring, 1977, with a cushion-shaped, unheated Sri Lankan sapphire set within an abstract surround of brilliant-cut diamonds mounted on stalks. Its estimate is £5,000-7,000 ($6,275 - $8,800).

The auction of 141 lots will offer a breadth of jewels including signed pieces, antique items and colorful gems.

The top lot is a Van Cleef & Arpels ring featuring a 10.28-carat E color marquise-cut diamond set between pear-shaped diamonds with an estimate of £150,000 - £200,000 ($188,200 - $251,000).

Signed jewels
The top three items in this group are:

A diamond 'Fuchsia' brooch and earring suite by Van Cleef & Arpels is among the top items in this group. The brooch is designed as a fuchsia flower head, its petals pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds and its stamen reveals an articulated cascade of pear-shaped diamonds. Its estimate is £70,000 - £100,000 ($87,800 - $125,500).

In addition, the auction will offer an Art deco diamond bracelet by Cartier, circa 1925. Signed “Cartier Londres,” the finely pierced articulated geometric strap is decorated with cushion-shaped old brilliant and single-cut diamonds. Its estimate is £20,000 - £30,000 ($25,100 - $27,600).

Another standout in this group is an enamel and diamond “Serpenti” bracelet-watch by Bulgari, circa 1965-1970. The articulated bracelet is composed of a series of overlapping scales applied with orangey-yellow and red enamel. The serpent’s head has a forked tongue and marquise-cut diamond eyes. Its mouth opens to reveal a circular watch dial. Its estimate is £50,000-60,000 ($62,700 - $75,300).

Antique jewels
Some of the standouts in this group are:

A 19th century diamond rivière necklace composed of 45 collet-set cushion-shaped diamonds weighing 43 carats. Its estimate is £60,000 - £80,000 ($75,300 - $100,380).

Photo by Anthony DeMarco

A Georgian diamond panel bracelet, circa 1780, composed of a series of individually sprung plaques, each pavé-set with old brilliant-cut diamonds, within a border of similarly-cut diamonds, mounted in silver closed back settings. Its estimate is £8,000 - £10,000 ($10,000 - $12,500).

An early 18th Century gold and diamond necklace of Portuguese origin in its original fitted case. It’s designed as a series of ribbon-bow motif links suspending a chandelier fringe. Its estimate is £10,000 - £15,000 ($12,500 - $18,800).

A special spinel
Bonhams is placing a special emphasis on spinels. These gems in red and blue (there are other colors) are sometimes mistaken for and are actually rarer than rubies and sapphires. However, their prices are lower. In September 2015, the 50.13-carat Hope Spinel fetched the world record price of $1.4 million at Bonhams London Fine Jewellery Sale, also setting a world record of $30,000 per carat, nearly double the previous record.

For this sale Bonhams is offering an early 20th century spinel and diamond ring. The 5.3-carat Burmese, unheated, step-cut spinel, circa 1915, is set within an octagonal surround of old single-cut diamonds. Its estimate is £15,000 - £20,000 ($18,800 - $25,100).

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Perhaps the most valuable private collection of emeralds is set to go on the auction block and it just got better with a rare pair of "cat's eye" emeralds.

The sale of the Marcial de Gomar Collection of rare emeralds will be held at the Americas Society at 680 Park Ave. with online bidding at www.liveauctioneers.com. Guernsey’s auction house of New York will host the sale, which will be held April 25 at 7 p.m.

The Marcial de Gomar Collection includes more than 20 loose cut and rough emeralds, 13 pieces of emerald jewelry, and a selection of rare gold and silver coins. The collection belongs to Manuel Marcial de Gomar, who has more than 50 years in the emerald business, spanning from the legendary Muzo mines of Colombia to the U.S. retail market. His knowledge of rare emeralds has placed him in demand as an author, lecturer and consultant. While his family continues their involvement with these gems through the Marcial de Gomar Emeralds International retail and wholesale business in Key West, Fla., it is Mr. Marcial's lifelong personal collection that is being sold.

Featured lots include the following:

The 887-carat “La Gloria,” the fourth largest known rough Colombian emerald from the Muzo mine. Its estimate is $3 million - $5 million.

The newest addition to the auction is a matched pair of emeralds featuring the extremely rare cat’s eye emeralds, with a total weight of 74.52 carats. They were cut from a single 370-carat trapiche emerald (an emerald with rare six point radial pattern) and are believed to be the largest matched pair of Colombian cat’s eye emeralds in the world. Their combined estimate is nearly $2 million.

Perhaps the most important piece in the collection is the Marcial de Gomar Star, the largest of only 11 star emeralds known to exist and perhaps the first of its kind as a double-sided star emerald, according to the auction house. Its estimate is $2 million - $3 million.

With a combined weight of 95.51 carats, the Tears of Fura is an extremely large and well-matched pair of fine teardrop shaped Colombian emeralds from Muzo mines. They have a combined estimate of $3 million - $4 million.

The Corona de Muzo necklace, centered with a 24.34-carat emerald from the famed shipwreck, the Nuestra Senora de Atocha. The gem is set in a 22k and 18k gold with crown details, featuring additional baguette and round cut diamonds and round cut emeralds. Its estimate is $5 million - $6 million.

Treasure hunter Mel Fisher selected Mr. Marcial to be the independent appraiser of all emeralds recovered from the Atocha. As payment he received a selection of emeralds from the world-famous wreck. A number of gold coins from the 1715 Fleet shipwreck are also part of the sale.

The entire collection will be presented to the public for the first time at the auction.

Viewings will be held April 23, 1 p.m. – 6 p.m.; April 24, Noon – 7 p.m.; and April 25, Noon – 7 p.m.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Versace V-Extreme Pro

When Versace expanded into watches in 2004 it brought on the Timex Group Swiss Luxury Division (a division of Timex Group) to design, manufacture and distribute its timepieces with the iconic luxury fashion brand’s codes, such as the Medusa head and the maze-like Greek keys.

Not surprisingly Versace watches are designed and treated more like accessories than timepieces. That will probably always be the case for a brand like Versace but this year’s new products show more dedication in looking and acting more like timepieces.

For example, the V-Extreme Pro (above and top photo) with its black dial and sunray guilloché finish has a second time subdial at 9 o’clock and a small seconds subdial at 3 o’clock. The Medusa is in relief at 12 o’clock. The 46mm case is available in bicolor black, ion-plated (IP) gold or ion-plated (IP) bronzed steel. An interchangeable top ring provides a choice of an engraved minute scale or the engraved Versace logo repeated three times. In addition, it’s available in five bicolored versions and comes with either a silicone strap with a hot-pressed logo or a metal bracelet.

Versace is known for its bold color choices. The black and gold colored Daphnis watch is an example of this. Its black dial and black leather strap is enhanced with an IP yellow gold bezel. The main design feature of the 35mm watch is the Greek keys, which are engraved on the gold bezel and run in a north-south row across the dial and along the black leather strap of the black dial model. The yellow gold Medusa head is in relief at 12 o’clock and on the crown.

There’s also a version of the watch with a beige mother-of-pearl dial and an IP yellow gold bezel and bracelet.

The 36mm Idyia watch is described by Versace as a “play of shapes within shapes.” Set into the round base is a faceted, 10-sided top ring with polished or diamond-studded edges that provide a contrast with the satin-finish surface. A supersized Greek keys stands out against the mother-of-pearl dial with an alternating polished and matte effect. The 3D Medusa is at 12 o’clock.

A standard model is available with polished edges and a bi-colored (steel and IP plated gold) bracelet and a luxury version with diamond-studded edges and an IP gold bracelet.

Straight from the Versace woman’s Spring/Summer 2017 catwalk, the Palazzo Empire’s bold 3D Medusa Head in the center of the dial is positioned between two watch glasses, embellishing and enhancing the sunray guilloché dial. The bezel is adorned by an enameled Greek keys design in colors that match the calfskin strap. It is available in white, black or pink.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Comes d'Abondance earrings containing 62 pebble rubies from Mozambique, 398 diamonds and 304 round cut rubies set on white gold with some parts plated in black rhodium

TEFAF's venture into the U.S. continues with the inaugural TEFAF New York Spring Fair at the Park Avenue Armory May 4 - 8, with the opening VIP preview on May 3. The fair will feature 92 dealers from around the world who specialize in Modern and Contemporary Art and Design. In addition, there will be dealers exhibiting jewelry, African & Oceanic art, and antiquities.

This fair follows the first edition of TEFAF New York Fall, launched in October 2016 at the Park Avenue Armory, concentrating on fine and decorative art from antiquity to 1920.

TEFAF, The European Fine Art Fair, is best known for the TEFAF Maastricht art fair in The Netherlands. It is considered to be one of the world’s leading art fairs.

In what will likely be a tradition of the TEFAF New York fairs in the spring and fall, The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering will host the inaugural “Opening Night” festival on Wednesday, May 3, providing an exclusive and private preview of the fair’s pieces before it opens to the public the following day.

A fibula brooch by Joel Arthur Rosenthal (JAR), made of tourmaline, garnet and diamond, Paris, circa 1993. Presented by Simon Teakle Fine Jewelry

Proceeds from the opening event will benefit The Society’s patient care, research and education programs at MSK. More than 2,000 high profile guests from the fashion, art, philanthropic and design are expected to attend.

Exhibitors who deal in antique and period pieces will be exhibiting items from JAR, Bulgari and jewelry creations from leading artists, including Max Ernst, Gio Pomodoro and Louise Nevelson.

Place Vendôme jeweler, Reza, is the lone contemporary high jewelry artist exhibiting, bringing a number of pieces defined by exceptional gems and a sleek, understated approach to traditional jewelry design.

A necklace by Gio Pomodoro Made up from five irregular textured 24k gyellow gold placquettes, further decorated with 18k yellow gold kinetic armatures, kinetic ball, melted granules, and white gold highlights, and set with circular-cut emeralds. Presented by Didier Ltd.

Among the world-class art dealers exhibiting at the fair are Acquavella Galleries, Applicat-Prazan, Di Donna, Richard Green, Hauser & Wirth, Paul Kasmin, Sean Kelly, Eykyn Maclean, Helly Nahmad, Lisson Gallery, Galerie Perrotin, Christophe van de Weghe, White Cube and David Zwirner.

For information and tickets to the “Opening Night of TEFAF New York Spring” event, contact Ali Warlich, The Society of MSK, at warlicha@mskcc.org, 212.639.7972. Tickets can also be ordered online.

Single entry tickets to TEFAF New York Spring are $50 for adults and $25 for full-time students with a valid ID. Multiple Entry tickets are $75. They can be purchased online.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Indian gold jewelry demand is making a comeback

Growth in U.S. gold jewelry demand resumed, leading to the strongest first quarter since 2010, the World Gold reported Thursday, as demand rose 3% year-over-year to 22.9 tons. The U.S. is firmly the world’s third largest market for gold jewelry.

The WGC Gold Demand Trends report for the first quarter of 2017 credited this growth to a post election lift in U.S. consumer sentiment. "Plain yellow gold was more popular in the U.S. than in European markets," WGC said in the report. "High end and online retailers performed strongly. The online segment is also gaining strength, particularly with continued growth in ‘clicks and mortar’ retailing—the overlap between the virtual and physical retail environments."

The U.S. was one of the few bright spots in a world still challenged by regional geopolitical and economic issues causing uncertainty throughout the world. More importantly, demand was curtailed by a 9% rise in gold prices from the end of December till the end of March.

A first-quarter surge in gold jewelry demand in Indian was enough to fuel a year-over-year 1% increase in global gold jewelry demand in the first quarter to 480.9 tons, according to the WGC. However, it is compared against an extremely poor first quarter of 2016.

“Gold jewelry demand was broadly steady, but remains weak in the longer term context,” the WGC said in its report. “Demand was 18% below the 587.7-ton five-year quarterly average.”

India
In November 2016, the Indian government implemented a surprise demonetization policy that removed Rs15.44 trillion, or 86 percent, of the currency in circulation from India’s economy. This had an immediate devastating impact on the whole Indian economy, including the gold jewelry sector. It was the culmination of an extremely challenging year for India’s gold jewelry industry that included strikes, even more government regulations and high gold prices. All of this led to a seven-year low in gold jewelry demand in India in 2016.

Against this backdrop a 16% year-over-year increase in gold jewelry demand to 92.3 tons in India in the first quarter of 2017, as reported by the WGC, isn’t as strong as it first appears. India’s importance in the gold jewelry marketplace can’t be underestimated. China and India accounted for nearly 56% of global gold jewelry demand in the first quarter.

The WGC emphasized that despite the high quarterly gain gold jewelry demand remains weak, primarily due to the high cost of the precious metal. The good news is that “by the end of March, 85% of the value of currency removed from circulation under demonetization had been returned,” the WGC said in its report.

The WGC said the outlook in gold jewelry demand in India is “robust” with one caveat. “The market is wary of the forthcoming decision on GST (Goods and Services Tax— a comprehensive indirect tax on manufacture, sale and consumption of goods and services throughout India, with the exception of Jammu and Kashmir) and this will likely weigh on demand until the government’s final decision, due for implementation in early July.”

China
The massive, populous and increasingly upwardly mobile country is now easily the world’s largest market for gold jewelry. Demand for gold jewelry was down 2% year-over-year to 176.5 tons.

An early Lunar New Year pushed gold jewelry demand in January, the WGC said. This was followed by a strong wedding season. However, “once the festivities were over, demand dropped off as usual—an effect that was more pronounced due to the backdrop of rising gold prices.”

The WGC described the gold jewelry industry as resourceful, but a slowing economic environment and changing consumer tastes are having a negative effect on gold jewelry demand.

China, known for 24k gold jewelry, has experienced an increase in 18k products. Manufacturers responded by offering more intricate and contemporary designs. A new 22k segment was introduced to cater demand for new, innovative and trendsetting pieces. In addition, some retailers are increasingly becoming specialized in bridal jewelry.

“So, although demand in China faces headwinds from the economy and the changing tastes of its consumers, the industry is keen and determined to adapt—an attitude that should help stem any weakness,” the WGC said.

Other Asian Markets
Jewelry demand within the smaller Asian markets was hit by a combination of rising gold price and rising political tensions in the region. In the face of rising gold prices, Japanese jewelry demand fell 9% year-over-year to 3.2 tons. A drop in Chinese tourists also was cited as a reason.

In Thailand, sluggish economic growth contributed to a 5% decline in first quarter jewelry demand to 3.1 tons. “The government responded with several measures designed to boost the domestic industry,” WGC said. “These included waiving tariffs on raw material imports used in jewelry production , and making low interest loans available for small and medium sized businesses to upgrade machinery.”

Europe
Jewelry demand was again dragged down by weakness in France and the U.K., the WGC said. The rest of the region was stable. Demand fell 6% in France due to pre-election uncertainty and the rise in terrorist activity which has impacted tourism, the WGC said. In addition, branded silver is making continued inroads into market share.

The U.K. saw a 7% year-over-year first quarter decline to 3.7 tons.

Middle East and Turkey
Demand in Turkey sank to a four-year low of 7.7 tons, the WGC said. Continued currency weakness in Turkey meant that the price of gold in lira rose more than in any other currency during the first quarter (+12%), undermining jewelry demand, which fell by 11% to 7.7 tons.

“The fragile economic and political conditions that have beset Turkey over recent years were again a key factor behind the weak Q1 number,” the WGC said. “The mid-April referendum on changing Turkey’s constitution from a parliamentary to a presidential republic weighed on demand for the sector. And the outlook for the market is weak as the local price remains prohibitively high for many at a time of deteriorating economic indicators.”

Demand in the Middle East was unchanged at 54.6 tons and it followed a familiar pattern, the WGC said. Jewelry demand in Iran jumped 27% in the first quarter year-over-year to a four-year high of 12.9 tons, helped by an improving economy and investment-driven purchases.

“Demand across the rest of the region remained weak in the face of low oil prices and subdued tourist numbers, the impact of which was exaggerated by rising gold prices,” the WGC said. “Although the UAE has imposed a 5% import duty, demand in that market was relatively robust as consumers rushed to buy before the full effect of the tax fed through to end user prices.”

Overall Gold Demand
The WGC Gold Demand Trends report—which tracks demand in gold for investments, jewelry and technology; and tracks gold supply as well—reported that overall global gold demand in the first quarter declined 18% to 1,034.5 tons. However, it is in comparison with the first quarter of 2016, which was the highest first quarter ever.

There was slower demand in Exchange Traded Funds and in central banks. Bar and coin investment, however, was described as “healthy” while demand “firmed slightly” in both the jewelry and technology sectors, the WGC said.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

The Jessica McCormack Townhouse Boutique

In less than 10 years, Jessica McCormack has earned an international reputation for her antique-inspired contemporary jewels. Sharing this attention is the 19th Century townhouse in Mayfair that her company calls home. It operates as the headquarters, workshop, showroom and boutique. After my first visit in March to the five-story red-brick building on 7 Carlos Place, I must say it’s quite impressive.

The interior, designed by London architects, Powell Tuck Associated, contains high ceilings, plenty of light through bay-style windows, aged wooden floors, fireplaces, and a well-manicured and inviting backyard patio. Throughout the first two stories (the public area) are antique furnishings and chandeliers, contemporary sculptures and paintings. One room has a wall-length, floor-to-ceiling bookcase and a player piano filling the space with music.

The Library

The “grand” townhouse is the only place in the world where one can purchase Jessica McCormack jewels. More importantly, it serves as the perfect showplace for McCormack’s aesthetic. The New Zealand native grew up around antiques at her father’s auction business in Christ Church. She served a one-year internship at Sotheby’s jewelry department in London where she grew an appreciation and love of baubles. Her style reflects both her foundation in antiques—particularly in Art Deco and Georgian and Victorian periods—and the edginess and casual nature of contemporary culture.

The jewelry gallery

The art and antiques are primarily from one of McCormack’s partners, Michael Rosenfeld, a diamantaire and art collector who sources diamonds and gems for her designs. Her other partner is Rachel Slack, a businesswoman and a member of the Oppenheimer family, which until recently was the owner of De Beers. So McCormack is well financed.

What about the jewelry?

McCormack’s collections (which includes Tattoo, Jewels of the Urban Night, Messenger of the Gods and Perfect Storm) are well defined with specific personal stories and signature motifs. For example, the Urban Night collection is inspired by the jagged edges and geometric features of the architecture of the New York skyline. The Art Deco motifs are created through channel-set diamonds in geometric lines and grids.

The Ruby New York Ring from the Urban Night collection

Meanwhile, the Tattoo collection is inspired by The Maori people of McCormack’s New Zealand home country. The jewels are based on their facial tattoos that tell individual stories of family lineage and social status within their tribe. Books about the Maori culture and artifacts she has collected over the years are included among the eclectic collection of contemporary art and antiques in the house.

The Tattoo Ring

While diamonds is McCormack’s preferred stone, she isn’t afraid to add color. This is most evident in the Party Jacket collection. In this versatile group, McCormack will often take a client’s existing ring—such as a solitaire, engagement or heirloom—and create a removable gem-specific “jacket” that surrounds the original gem. It provides another way to express oneself with the same jewel without altering it.

Oval diamond ring with ruby Party Jacket

This clever nature and versatility is evident throughout her pieces. Another thing that makes her pieces special is that it is luxury jewelry that can be worn everyday and for all occasions. These are a couple of reasons why McCormack is in high demand for her bespoke work, collaborating with clients to create something special and unique. Clients include Rihanna and Madonna. As the story goes (as these stories often go) Rihanna was McCormack’s first customer when she operated a small, private appointment studio. The singer and fashion icon purchased a single “Wings of Desire” earring.

Wing of Desire Earrings

McCormack’s petite, edgy and versatile diamond-centric jewels have attracted a strong following throughout the world (particularly in the U.K. and U.S.), despite their limited availability.

It is a successful business that is at a crossroads. The challenge is fueling growth while maintaining its high quality standards and continuity with the Jessica McCormack brand.

The Romance Room

There are at least three issues facing the company. First, there is demand far exceeding her ability to supply it. The craftsmen produce about 100 handmade pieces per year. Second, the big, beautiful art-filled space, which is as much of the Jessica McCormack brand as her jewels, comes with huge costs. Third, the boutique is away from the busier shopping areas of Mayfair, such as Bond Street. This makes it primarily a destination for clients already familiar with her work. The primary source of casual walk in traffic is from The Connaught luxury hotel directly across the street.

To diversify the product selection, the brand recently released a bridal jewelry collection with the same relationship to McCormack and her brand as her other jewels.

The Little Mermaid Ring

For additional help in planning this next phase of the business they recruited New York resident, Colleen Caslin, who just finished a successful eight-year run as the chief operating officer of Verdura and Belperron. She is serving as the interim CEO till June. The veteran luxury executive’s resume includes leadership positions at Movado Group, Graff and Asprey. She is well respected in the industry. I’ve known her during her time at Verdura and Belperron and can’t imagine a better person to guide the business to its next level.

I met with Caslin during my visit in March and she discussed many ideas that are being considered. Nothing yet has been approved but those loyal clients should be prepared for some changes.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

December, 22, 1969: Jackie Onassis (1929 - 1994) pictured with her Cartier Tank watch. Photo by David Cairns/Express/Getty Images

One of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’s most cherished items during her years as first lady and long after will be placed on auction next month.

Kennedy Onassis’s Cartier Tank watch is one of the high-profile items to appear at Christie’s New York Rare Watches and American Icons New York sale on June 21. Its estimate is $60,000 - $120,000.

Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis's Cartier Tank watch

It was a watch worn by the former first lady for decades and can be seen on her wrist in many photos, Christie’s said. It was given to her as a gift from her brother-in-law Prince Stanislaw “Stas” Radziwill in 1963. On the caseback is the engraving: "Stas to Jackie 23 Feb. 63 2:05 AM to 9:35 PM.” The times refer to the start and stop times of the 50-Mile Hike in Palm Beach in 1963.

The watch will be accompanied by an original painting that Kennedy Onassis made in 1963 as a gift for Stas Radziwill, celebrating the hike with the dedication “February 23, 1963, 2:05 am to 9:35 pm / Jackie to Stas with love and admiration.”

The engraved caseback of the Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Cartier Tank

The 50-mile hike became a short-lived fad in early 1963 after President Kennedy publicly asked the American people to accept the mentally and physically grueling challenge of walking this long distance, the auction house said. His inner circle of family and friends were some of the first to attempt the hike including his friends, Stas Radziwill and Chuck Spalding, featured in the painting.

This watch and the accompanying painting, previously unknown to the public, are two important historic artifacts to surface in recent years from the golden era of the Kennedy Presidency, Christie’s said.

The watch will be accompanied by an original painting that Kennedy Onassis made in 1963 as a gift for Stas Radziwill

“These two objects capture the spirit of another era, a time where friendship and the ‘can-do’ optimism of the generation seemed to make anything possible,” said John Reardon, international head of Christie’s Watches.

The owner of the watch and painting, who has requested anonymity, offered to donate a portion of the proceeds to the National Endowment for the Arts.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

Faidee’s Latest Masterpiece Is The $35 Million ‘Grand Phoenix’ Ruby Necklace

Baselworld Officials Reduce Fair By Two Days; Hermès, Possibly Dior And Another Brand Moving To SIHH

Phillips Auction To Feature Four Patek Watches Signed By Tiffany

Signed Jewels That Sparkle At Sotheby’s Hong Kong Sale

59.6-Carat ‘Pink Star’ Diamond Shatters World Record, Fetches $71.2 Million; Buyer Is Chow Tai Fook

Montblanc Showcases UNICEF Literacy Partnership With Star-Studded Gala

Rihanna Teams With Chopard For New Jewelry Collection

Collectors See Value In Richard Mille Watches At Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

92-Carat Flawless Heart Shaped Diamond To Appear At Christie’s Geneva Sale

Caviar-Themed Promotion From Lagos And Philadelphia Hotel Benefits Autism Research

Mismatched Diamond Earrings Could Fetch $68 Million At Sotheby’s

Colored Diamonds, Cartier Ruby Brooch Among Top Lots At Bonhams New York Auction

Omega Unveils 60-Year Anniversary Models For 3 Iconic Watches

Artist Jewels, Led By Andrew Grima, Featured At Bonhams London Auction

The Marcial de Gomar Collection Of Emeralds To Be Auctioned This Month

Versace 2017 Watches Are More Than Just Accessories

Inaugural TEFAF New York Spring Fair Focuses On Modern And Contemporary Art And Design

WGC Reports That U.S. Gold Jewelry Demand Up 3%, While Global Weakness Persists

The Only Place To Buy Jessica McCormack Luxury Jewels Is In A Magnificent London Townhouse, But That May Soon Change

Christie’s To Offer Jackie Kennedy’s Cartier Tank Watch