Tie The Knot With Colored Gem Engagement Rings

December 4, 2016, 3:21 pm

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Small Twig ring with a 19.99 carat aquamarine available in 18k yellow, white, or rose gold and platinum by K. Brunini Jewels

Thanks to the De Beers “A Diamond is Forever” campaign, white diamonds matched with white metals have been the standard for engagement rings for more than 60 years in the United States. However, it wasn’t always that way, particularly among the rich, royal and famous when tying the knot.

Likoma ring in 18k white gold with a 4.18-carat pear-shaped pink tourmaline enhanced with grey, white and golden natural pearls and diamonds by Mellerio dits Meller

In 1796, a 26-year-old up-and-coming soldier named Napoleon Bonaparte presented his wife to be, Joséphine, with a sapphire and diamond engagement ring. The stones, each weighing 1 carat and mounted in gold, rest side by side facing opposite directions. Osenat auction house in Paris sold the ring in March 2013 for more than $1 million.

Majestic emerald-cut intense honey citrine and diamond ring by Alexandra Mor

When John F. Kennedy proposed to Jacqueline Bouvier in 1953, he did it with a gold Van Cleef & Arpels ring with a 2.88-carat diamond and 2.84-carat emerald enhanced with baguette diamonds, which were later replaced with round and marquis cut diamonds. 

6.39-carat pear-shaped yellow sapphire ring by Robert Procop

Perhaps the most famous colored gem engagement ring is the 18k white gold ring centered with a 12-carat oval blue Ceylon sapphire surrounded by diamonds that Prince William presented to Kate Middleton in 2010 when he proposed marriage. The ring is a family heirloom, belonging to his late mother Princess Diana who received it as her engagement ring.

Eloise ring featuring three-stone paraiba by Erica Courtney

There are a number of modern day celebrity couples choosing colored gems for engagement rings. Among them:

* Singer and actress Jessica Simpson, who received a gold engagement ring from guitarist Eric Johnson in 2010 centered with an oversized ruby flanked by two diamonds on either side. The ring was designed by Neil Lane, who is known for his work with celebrities.

Platinum Stack Rings composed of the five individual rings shown, designed by Barbara Heinrich to collect, mix and match with your favorite colored gem and wear as an engagement ring, a wedding band, as a group right-hand ring, or individually

* Academy Award winner Halle Berry received a hand-forged gold ring flashing a 4-carat emerald in a one-of-a-kind setting. Designed by French jeweler, Robert Mazio, the square cut emerald is flanked by two smaller diamonds on each side of the ring. The ring reportedly has symbols and codes that only the wearer could see and tells the story of the love between Berry and her one-time husband Olivier Martinez. Unfortunately, the story didn’t end well for the couple. 

18k white gold ring with an aquamarine center stone surrounded by diamonds by Pasquale Bruni

* Australian cricket player Shane Warne proposed to actress Elizabeth Hurley with a 9-carat square-cut sapphire flanked by two trillion-cut white diamonds.

The Valentina 18k yellow gold ring by Anabel Higgins with an 18.74-carat rubellite surrounded by diamonds

There have been attempts by gem dealers, designers and jewelry retailers to bring the appeal of colored gems to bridal jewelry in the U.S., but consumers never took to it. When Kate Middleton, (now Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge) was married with the Ceylon sapphire, Sri Lankan gem dealers were anticipating a rush to buy similar gems for proposals, but even royal star power couldn’t sway the masses. 

18k rose gold Tourmaline Ring by Lucifer vir Honestus

However, in the luxury segment of the jewelry market, jewelers are willing to cater to those who want something different and unique. For example, earlier this year jewelry artist, Katey Brunini, unveiled a complete line of bridal jewels (engagement rings and wedding bands) featuring a variety of colored gems, including ruby, sapphire, emeralds and Beryl in hues that run from pastel to bold. The pieces include classic looks and organic, rough-textured shapes, described as “twigs” and “vertebrae.” 

Rose gold ring with a 6.23-carat emerald and diamonds by Vhernier

Venerable Parisian high jeweler, Mellerio dits Meller, recently released a collection of high jewelry cocktails ring, the “Private Collection,” that also could be used as engagement rings. They are designed by Laure-Isabelle Mellerio, the wife of M. Laurent Mellerio, the 14th Mellerio to head the family owned jeweler since 1613. 

Platinum ring with 2.11-carat blue oval sapphire solitaire set in a diamond filigree mounting by Alishan

Using colored gems is a way to create a ring that more fully describes the story of your marriage. 

Blue Topaz and diamond “Sea Leaf” ring by Miseno

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“Dearest” enamel stack ring by Alison Lou

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LA Museum Hosts Rare Colored Diamonds Exhibit By L.J. West

December 15, 2016, 10:17 am

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The Juliet Pink Diamond, set in a necklace with marquise, pear and round-cut white diamonds totaling 98.70 carats. Image courtesy of Brian Lazar.

The Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County is set to unveil “Diamonds: Rare Brilliance” that brings together rare colored gems never before seen in the United States. 

The exhibition inside the museum’s Gem and Mineral Hall will open Friday and run through March 19, 2017. The colored diamonds and jewels in the exhibition are owned by L.J. West Diamonds, which specializes in the sourcing, manufacturing and distribution of colored diamonds.

At the exhibition’s centerpiece is the “Juliet Pink Diamond,” an extremely rare pink diamond of more than 30 carats, and a Fancy Deep Grayish Bluish Violet named the “Argyle Violet Diamond” after the Argyle mine in Western Australia, where it was discovered in 2015. Through examples, such as the fluorescent lighting of a “rainbow” diamond necklace and a very rare Victorian Orchid Diamond, the exhibition will attempt to bring to light the rare properties of colored gemstones, the science behind natural colored diamonds, and how the interplay of light and chemistry gives diamonds color. 

The diamonds on display include the following:

Image courtesy of Brian Lazar.

The Juliet Pink Diamond – This 30.03-carat Fancy Intense Pink oval diamond, with a VVS2 clarity grade, is cut from a 90-carat rough from South Africa. It is set in a necklace with marquise, pear and round-cut shape white diamonds, VVS E-F, totaling 98.70 carats. 

Image courtesy of Brian Lazar

The Argyle Violet – The 2.83-carat oval shaped gem is the largest violet diamond unearthed from the Argyle diamond mine, polished from a 9.17-carat rough diamond. It possesses the unique color grading of Fancy Deep Grayish Bluish Violet, and served as the headline stone of the 2016 Argyle Pink Diamonds Signature Tender, an annual sale of rare pink, red and blue diamonds, unearthed from the Argyle Diamond Mine in Western Australia.

Image courtesy of Brian Lazar

The Rainbow Necklace – A jewel made of approximately 100 rare natural colored diamonds from the color spectrum. It features radiant-cut shape multi-color diamonds at a noteworthy 35.93-carat weight and is set in a custom 18k white gold arch necklace. It took more than five years to source and assemble the jewel. 

Image courtesy of Aaron Celestian, Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County

The Victorian Orchid Vivid Purple Diamond – It is one of the rarest stones currently worldwide because of its unusual color, according to LJ West. It is a 1.64-carat Fancy Vivid Purple diamond with an SI2 clarity grade is fashioned in a cushion-cut shaped and is set in a platinum flower designed ring with a matching pair of kite- shape diamonds.

The exhibition coincides with the reopening of NHMLA’s Gem and Mineral Store. 

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C.F. Martin Works With Watchmaker For Its 2 Millionth Guitar

December 19, 2016, 6:27 pm

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C.F. Martin & Co is widely known as the premier maker of acoustic guitars. For the milestone of the making of its two millionth guitar, it turned to the world of hand-crafted watches to create a one-of-a-kind instrument. 

“There is a connection between people who like fine guitars and fine watches and we've decided to bring those two together with something that’s pretty special. When we started this project we didn’t know where we would end up,” said Chris Martin IV, chairman and CEO of C.F. Martin & Co. “The budget became what it needed to be to get it done right.”

To do this the 184-year-old Nazareth, Pa.-based company partnered with custom watchmaker, Roland G. Murphy, owner of RGM Watch Co. in nearby Mount Joy, Pa. What they created is a fully playable guitar with the artistic interpretation of the mechanics of a watch on the front, back and fretboard; and with a RGM watch embedded into the headstock of the piece. 

In addition, custom Waverly steel tuners were fashioned by Murphy with rose gold guilloché-engraved inserts that resemble a watch crown. The center of the caps features the “keystone” shape that signifies the nickname of Pennsylvania as the “Keystone State.” The watch movement, clearly visible from the back of the headstock, has its own crown in the same style as the tuners. The shape of the watch was modified to fit into the wedge shape of the headstock.

It’s based on the Martin D-45 style body, with the back and sides constructed from Brazilian rosewood. The top is crafted from bearclaw Engelmann spruce. 

Robert Goetzl artist and illustrator who worked on the design, said it took 18 sketches to get it right. He consulted with Murphy to ensure the overall artwork was both aesthetically pleasing and technically accurate.



Martin did not disclose the value of the guitar and it will not be sold. However, it will be on view at the Winter NAMM 2017 music trade show in Anaheim, Calif., January 19 - 22, 2017. 

In addition to the one-of-a-kind guitar, Martin and RGM also collaborated on a D-200 Deluxe guitar with many of the same features. It’s based on Martin’s classic 14-fret Style 45 Dreadnought with the top crafted from bearclaw Engelmann spruce that features an aluminum rosette with guilloché engraving.

The guitar's back of pre-CITES Brazilian rosewood is inlaid with watch gears cut from reconstituted stone, mother-of-pearl, bloodwood, Hawaiian koa and ebony. The soundboard inlays feature a minute track in mother-of-pearl, birdseye maple, flamed Hawaiian koa and ebony, and a pickguard with pearl inlaid watch gears. Another decorative detail is the triple-strand abalone pearl striping that bisects the length of each side, referencing the early Spanish-inspired instruments of C. F. Martin Sr. The maple bound ebony fingerboard shows watch gear mechanisms. Each guitar comes with a newly designed watch from RGM that references details from the D-200 guitar design and bears a matching serial number with each edition of the instrument. 

Limited to 50, the guitar retails for $149,999 and also will be unveiled at Winter NAMM 2017. 

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Chinese Conglomerate Acquires 85% Stake in Buccellati

December 24, 2016, 12:39 am

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The Buccellati New York flagship store on Madison Avenue

Clessidra, an Italian private equity firm, and the Buccellati family said Friday that it sold an 85 percent share in Buccellati to Chinese conglomerate, Gangtai Group. 

Clessidra and the Buccellati family will retain a 15 percent stake in Italian high jewelry house. The company is reportedly valued at approximately $282 million. A source close to the deal would not confirm or deny the figure. However, the person did say that revenue in 2015 was approximately $42.8 million, making its valuation 6.6 times its annual revenue.

The new majority owners plan to expand into China and other Asian markets, according to multiple sources. As part of the deal the Buccellati family will retain creative control of the company.

Buccellati, founded in Milan in 1919, is one of the most prestigious jewelers in Italy, known for creating pieces using time-honored hand-crafted techniques. The company has an international presence, particularly in Europe and the United States with branded stores and distribution agreements.

Buccellati was 100 percent family owned until 2013 when Clessidra acquired a 67 percent stake, with the remaining 33 percent retained by the founding family. A year later the company announced a rebranding effort aimed at attracting younger customers. The company named Lucrezia Buccellati, 25-years-old at the time, as its first woman designer and the youngest person to hold that title. Her father, Andrea Buccellati, became president and creative director, later adding the title of chairman. In 2015, the company opened a five-story flagship store in Madison Avenue in New York as well as stores in Paris and Palm Beach.

The Buccellati creative team, Andrea Buccellati and his daughter, Lucrezia

Clessidra, in a statement, noted that since 2013, the family made significant investments to expand its distribution network, support the product offering and strengthen the management structure. Now it says Buccellati is ready to expand into China.

“We are particularly satisfied with the agreement reached with Gangtai Group,” Marco Carotenuto, managing director of Clessidra, said in a statement. “We have strongly supported Buccellati in the last three years achieving a 60 percent growth in revenues since acquisition. We believe that the company is now ready for a new growth cycle that Gangtai Group will support, considering also its experience in the jewelry market and its strong presence in China.”

Gangtai Group—which specializes in the consumer, culture, finance and health industries—has experience in the China jewelry market. Its subsidiary, Gangsu Gangtai Holding (Group) Co. Ltd, is one of largest gold jewelry distributers and a leading internet jewelry retailer in China, and is focused on growing its presence in international luxury, according to the statement. 

Andrea Buccellati will retain his role as creative director and honorary chairman of Buccellati. Gianluca Brozzetti will retain his role as CEO of Buccellati. Other members of the Buccellati family will also retain their involvement in the business, according to the statement.

“Our family founded this company almost 100 years ago and will continue to be fully involved to support its development, the creative mastery and production craftsmanship that enabled the establishment of a unique and recognizable style in jewelry and silverware,” Andrea Buccellati said. "We welcome the commitment of Gangtai Group to invest significant resources to further develop the Buccellati brand and platform.”

Buccellati one-of-kind gold earrings inspired by Odilon Redon's La Chute de Phaéton

Closing of the transaction is expected by the second quarter of 2017 and is subject to Chinese government approval. 

The deal team at Clessidra included Manuel Catalano, managing director, Marco Carotenuto, managing director, and Giulio Torregrossa, investment director. The sellers were advised by Mediobanca, Unicredit and Partners CPA as financial advisors and by law firms Gattai Minoli Agostinelli & Partners and Pedersoli e Associati for the legal aspects. The purchaser was advised by law firm Simmons & Simmons for the legal aspects. 

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Blue And Pink Diamonds Topped Auction Sales For 2016

December 28, 2016, 9:14 am

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As in the past few years statement blue and pink diamonds garnered the most attention and highest bids at Chrisite’s and Sotheby’s in 2016. White diamond earrings and a rare green diamond also made the cut.

Without further delay here are the top 10 jewelry auction sales of 2016: 

The Oppenheimer Blue (top photo), a 14.62-carat fancy vivid blue rectangular-cat diamond fetched a world record for any jewel sold at auction, more than $58 million, at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale in May. 

The De Beers Millennium Blue, a 10.10-carat fancy vivid blue diamond sold for more than $32 million at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite sale in April. 

The Unique Pink, a 15.38-carat pear-shaped fancy vivid pink diamond sold for a world auction record price for any fancy vivid pink diamond, fetching more than $31.5 million at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale in May. 

The Cullinan Dream, a 24.18-carat mixed-cut fancy intense blue diamond, sold for more than $25.3 million. It is the largest fancy intense blue diamond ever to be offered at auction. It was sold at Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels & the Cullinan Dream sale in May.

A 17.07-carat fancy intense pink diamond with a step-cut sold for more than $20.7 million at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale in November.

A 9.14-carat fancy vivid pink pear-shaped diamond sold for more than $18.2 million at Christie's Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale in November

Miroir de l'Amour (Mirror of Love), a pair of 52.55- and 50.47-carat pear-shaped D color, flawless type IIa diamond earrings, by Boehmer et Bassenge sold for nearly $17.7 million at Christie's Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale in November. They are the world’s largest perfect pear-shaped diamond drops ever to be offered at auction.

A 7.32-carat pear-shaped fancy vivid blue diamond sold for more than $17.1 million at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels Sale in May.

The Sky Blue Diamond, an 8.01-carat fancy vivid blue diamond mounted on a diamond ring designed by Cartier, sold for more than $17 million at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels in November.

A 5.03-carat rectangular-cut fancy vivid green diamond, within a circular-cut pink diamond surround, sold for more than $16.8 million at Christie’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels sale in May. 

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Golden Globes 2017: Winners Of The Jewel And Watch Awards

January 9, 2017, 1:35 pm

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Drew Barrymore in $2.5 million worth of Harry Winston diamonds

The Golden Globes red carpet has grown to become one of the top international fashion draws and as such the large luxury brands and independent designers fight hard to get their jewels and watches on the biggest stars and the winners. Many were quite success this year. 

Piaget, a fixture on the red carpet circuit, had its jewelry and watches on its brand ambassadors and friends of the brand, including:

Nominee Jessica Chastain, Piaget brand ambassador, wore the Piaget Rose necklace in 18k white gold and set with 265 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Nominee, presenter and Piaget brand ambassador, Ryan Reynolds, wore the Piaget Altiplano 38mm watch in 18k rose gold on a black alligator strap.

Presenter Matt Damon wore the ultra-thin Piaget Altiplano 40mm timepiece in 18k rose gold with a grey dial and white gold Piaget cufflinks.

Harry Winston dressed a number of stars last night in diamond and platinum jewels, including the following:

Nominee Lily Collins wore vintage Harry Winston Cluster Earrings, vintage 1967 Winston Cluster Diamond drop earrings, a Winston Cluster pear-shaped diamond ring, a sparkling cluster diamond ring and a Sunflower diamond Twin ring.

Presenter Drew Barrymore (top photo) wore more than $2.5 million of Harry Winston diamonds, including Mrs. Winston Diamond drop earrings, a Sparkling Cluster diamond ring, an emerald-cut diamond rock band, round brilliant and emerald-cut diamond band ring, a South Seas pearl and diamond ring, and a Lily Cluster diamond ring, all set in platinum.

Presenter Kristen Bell wore more than 115 carats of Harry Winston diamonds, including vintage 1963 three-row diamond hoop earrings, a Secret Combination diamond bracelet and stacked diamond band rings.

Nominee Viola Davis wore more than 90 carats of Harry Winston diamonds, including Secret Combination Diamond hoop earrings and a Carpet diamond bracelet.

Nominee Thandie Newton wore more than 75 carats of Harry Winston diamonds including vintage 1962 diamond earrings, bezel set fancy-shape diamond necklace, radiant-cut diamond band ring, and round brilliant diamond band rings.

Tiffany & Co. jewels and watches adorned a number of stars Sunday, including:

Nominee Naomie Harris wore Tiffany diamond earrings and a selection of platinum and diamond rings. 

Presenter Reese Witherspoon wore the Tiffany Archival necklace, yellow diamond earrings and a selection of rings.

Winner Emma Stone donned a Tiffany Archival statement necklace and diamond earrings and rings. 

Presenter Sienna Miller accessorized with classic pearls and diamond earrings.

Chopard is always popular on the international red carpet. A number of nominees and presenters were adorned with jewels and watches from the luxury brand. Among them: 

Nominee Julia Louis-Dreyfus Wears wore a pair of rectangular step-cut diamonds totaling 10.84 carats and 3.8 carats of diamonds set in 18k white gold along with a 50.34-carat diamond cuff in 18k white gold, both from Chopard’s “High Jewelry Collection.”

Nominee Gina Rodriguez wore earrings featuring a 5.02-carat modified shield step-cut diamond, a 5.01-carat modified shield step-cut diamond, and 1.82 carats of baguette-cut diamonds set in 18k white gold; along with a ring featuring a 7.29-carat brilliant marquise shaped diamond and set in 18k white gold, both from the “High Jewelry Collection.”

Nominee Lola Kirke wore earrings featuring a pair of amethysts totaling 14.24 carats, 4.74 carats of pink pastel sapphires and 3.85-carats of diamonds set in 18k white gold from the “Temptations Collection;” along with a ring featuring a 5.01-carat heart shaped diamond and in 18k white gold from the “High Jewelry Collection.”

Fred Leighton jewelry was worn by a number of presenters and nominees, among them: 

Nominee and presenter Nicole Kidman wore a 19th Century double strand diamond rivière necklace, with more than 48 carats of old mine diamonds, with a 9-carat antique rose cut diamond button cluster ring, circa 1760s, and an Art Deco diamond and onyx ring

Winner Claire Foy wore 19th Century diamond teardrop pendant earrings with 7 carats of old mine lozenge shaped diamonds, a 19th Century rose cut diamond cluster ring and a rose cut diamond floret cluster ring, signed Fred Leighton.

Nominee Sarah Jessica Parker wore an oval old mine diamond dart pendant earrings, an Art Nouveau opal and gold ring and a diamond knot ring Signed Fred Leighton

Nominee Ruth Negga wore a new piece of Fred Leighton jewelry. A 25.5-carat oval ruby and diamond cuff bracelet, in 18k yellow gold, featuring responsibly sourced Gemfields Mozambican rubies. 

Nominee Winona Ryder wore old European cut diamond collet drop earrings, a 19th Century blue enamel and diamond ring, and a rose rose cut diamond 5-stone diamond ring and a 3-stone diamond ring, both signed Fred Leighton.

Winner Tracee Ellis Ross wore Noudar diamond rings, L’Dezen by Payal Shah diamond ring, and a Hueb diamond ring.

Felicity Huffman wore jewelry from Los Angeles-based designer Martin Katz that included large tambourine spring bangle in 18k yellow gold and 306 diamonds, and pear shaped diamond and 18k yellow gold drop earrings.

Nominee Issa Rae wore L’Dezen by Payal Shah diamond earrings.

Presenter Carrie Underwood wore Yoko London pearl and diamond earrings and ring.

Montblanc had its watches and accessories on a number of male nominees and presenters, including: 

Winner Casey Affleck wore “Tribute to Shakespeare” silver and onyx cuff links.

Nominee, Joel Edgerton, selected the 1858 Manual Small Second time piece with blue dial and leather straps paired with onyx and silver tuxedo studs and matching cuff links.

Nominee, Jeff Bridges, wore mother-of-pearl and silver tuxedo studs and matching cufflinks.

Nominee, Rami Malek, wore the “Heritage Chronometrie Automatic” time piece with rose gold bezel and black leather straps.

Tom Hiddleston wore the "Heritage Spirit Automatic" watch

Nominee Simon Helberg wore “Urban Spirit” cufflinks made of polished stainless steel and black onyx inlay.

Nominee Mahershala Ali wore “Iconic” silver and onyx cuff links.

Presenter Eddie Redmayne, OMEGA Brand Ambassador, wore the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph. 

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The Casual Luxury Of Amsterdam

January 10, 2017, 10:10 am

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The city of Amsterdam has come a long way in recent years. Known historically as a place for legal marijuana and legal prostitution, the city is undergoing a transformation as a luxury destination with new and renovated hotels, a restaurant renaissance and luxury shopping to go along with world-class museums, live theater and even more active endeavors like ice skating. 

Many in Amsterdam’s hospitality industry talk about “casual luxury,” which is attentive, comfortable and democratic. They proudly say that dignitaries and celebrities near and far are treated to the same level of hospitality as anyone would receive. It’s a compact city that can easily be managed by foot or its excellent public transportation system. It is tailored made for couples looking for a short respite from daily life while enjoying the stimulation of being in large, dynamic city.

The lobby of the Pulitzer Hotel

A great starting off point for a luxury adventure is the Pulitzer Amsterdam hotel (Prinsengracht 323, 1016 GZ), a complex of 25 canal houses in a quaint centrally located neighborhood. If you remember the hotel from the 2004 film, “Ocean’s Twelve,” you won’t recognize it as it underwent a full renovation completed in August, 2016, with central grounds, two new restaurants and a comfortable bar specializing in craft cocktails. If you’re willing to splurge a bit you can get one of the “Extraordinary Suites,” on the ground floor, most with their own private entrances. Each one has a design theme, music, art, books, antiques and the Pulitzer Suite for lovers.

The Arts Suite at the Pulitzer Hotel

Amsterdam’s flat landscape and scenic canals make it an ideal place for strolling year round. In the wintertime the shadows of quickly vanishing daylight and the reflection of lights off the water during the long nights adds a bit of romance and mystery to the canal-lined streets.

After a quick café latte and croissant at Pause, the Pulitzer’s bright and airy lobby café that extends into the hotel gardens, it’s time to head out to one of the best, though lesser-known, areas for shopping, the Nine Streets (De Negen Straatjes). Nine little streets divided by four canals make up a neighborhood of boutique shops, comfortable restaurants and simple bars and coffee houses, almost all of the businesses are locally owned, ranging from the highly refined and luxurious to the quaint and quirky.

The interactive displays at Otentic Perfumes

One of the first stores you’ll come upon is Otentic Perfumes (Keizersgracht 233, 1016EA), which specializes in women and men fragrances. The corner store contains a collection of 65 fragrances divided into eight “families” or “moods.” The idea is to determine your favorite fragrance based on individual scents. You can do this yourself through a grouping of eight interactive displays or guided by trained employees until you find the combination of scents that suits you. The concept was founded by Jean-Denis Saisse, an eighth-generation perfumer from Grasse, France (the center of the country’s perfume industry), whose family formulates perfumes for some of the world’s best-known brands.

A window display at the Amsterdam Watch Company

A block north is the Amsterdam Watch Company, which specializes in collectible timepieces. It is a seemingly small store but has an inventory of more than 40 watch brands, from Audemars Piguet to Zenith. 

One of the many locally owned stores at the Nine Streets

Keep walking north along the shops dodging the cyclists who quietly speed past in all directions and you’ll come to two very different looking buildings across the street from each other joined by a giant “W” on each. It is the W Amsterdam hotel (Spuistraat 175, 1012 VN). The one building was a former telephone exchange building and the other a former bank. On the ground floor of the bank building is the X Bank concept design store. The Dutch are known for minimalistic, experimental, innovative and even humorous designs. The retail space features the breadth of Dutch design, ranging from high-end furnishings and artworks to apparel and accessories. Prices at the store range from 8 to 80,000 euro. 

The X Bank design concept store

One jeweler whose work I recognized immediately is Bibi van der Velden, whom I met in the U.S. a few years ago. She produces hand-crafted fine jewels by combining traditional precious materials with ostrich eggs, scarab wings, 40,000 year-old mammoth tusk and other unusual materials. The jewels are precious, colorful and organic. 

Bibi van der Velden jewels in the X Bank store

Another jewelry collection of note is The Amsterdam Collection by Statement Jewels, which normally specializes in antique pieces. The collection is conceived and crafted by hand in Amsterdam. This effort is led by Mart van Drunen, the founder of Statement Jewels, and goldsmith Frederik Bakker. It mixes precious gems with wood, amethyst and other organic material to create one-of-a-kind pieces, which are signed and numbered and hand-engraved with a vertical triple-x; the symbol of Amsterdam.

The bar at The Duchess restaurant in the W Amsterdam hotel

Take a break at The Duchess restaurant inside the W Amsterdam. Open all day, the grand room with high ceilings, big, round chandeliers and dark marble was once where the vault of the bank was located. In addition to three full meal services per day it serves tea in the afternoon and features a large and wide dark marble bar with personable bartenders who are specialists at craft drinks. Try one of the three specialty punches with some light fare before continuing your journey. 

Bijenkorf luxury department store on Dam Square

The W Amsterdam is located on the edge of Dam Square, the historical center of Amsterdam and still the center of activity for residents and tourists. The Royal Palace is there as well as world-class hotels and stores. Outside of the palace, one the most impressive buildings on the square is the flagship Bijenkorf luxury department store. The name of the store means beehive, which is apt as it is constantly buzzing with activity. The multi-story retail building has all the international brands one would expect to find, plus brands well known within the Netherlands.

The Cartier boutique inside Bijenhorf

As the day turns to night, it’s time to relax by taking a canal boat cruise. It’s a touristy thing to do but it’s also a great way to see the city while sipping on a Jenever, the local liquor served in a distinct tulip-shaped shot glass. Opt for the flavorful oude (old) jenever as opposed to the Jonge (young) if possible. The designation has no relationship to the age of the product but relates to the brewing method. If you leave now you will still be able to experience the Amsterdam Light Festival (till January 22). Artists from around the world build large light-infused sculptures throughout the city, with many of the best and brightest along the canals. 

The "Lace" artwork, part of the Amsterdam Light Festival

Have the boat dock at the Grand Amsterdam hotel for dinner at Bridges restaurant. The transformation of Amsterdam to a culinary destination has been dramatic. In 1982, Amsterdam had only one restaurant with a Michelin star; today, there are four restaurants with two stars and eleven with one star. Bridges is an example of this boom retaining its Michelin star with an internationally inspired menu that includes roe-deer (a Eurasian species of deer), grilled oxtail and charred kohlrabi paired with Asian ingredients. 

The Grand Amsterdam hotel

The Grand Amsterdam is an historical hotel that once was a convent and as the Amsterdam city hall features old world luxury that recently underwent a renovation, without losing its old world charm and legendary service. If you’re nice they may allow you to view The Marriage Chamber, with its Egyptian themed depiction of the circle of life that surrounds the room on stained glass windows, wallpapers and doors. It was created by artist Chris Lebeau (completed in 1926) in an Art Deco style that would make Belgium detective, Hercule Poirot, feel at home. The room is used for weddings, including royal weddings, and other private events. 

The Marriage Chamber at the Grand Amsterdam hotel

After dinner it’s time to return to the Pulitzer, on foot of course. Before returning to the room, stop at the comfortable and casual Pulitzer Bar for a nightcap. 

Beurspassage

The next morning skip breakfast at the hotel and take the tram (or walk) to Beurspassage (Damrak 1012 LW). It’s basically an underpass between buildings that connects Damrak Avenue and Nieuwendijk street. It is a popular pedestrian passageway for locals and tourists. The space has been transformed into a block-long piece of site-specific art. Colorful mosaic glass covers the wall the ceiling and marble covers the floor, all of it designed with nautical themed images. Glass light scones depict fantastical animal designs. One of the focal points of the space is chandeliers made of used bicycle parts. Eat breakfast like the locals, grab a pastry at the Banketbakkerij van der Linde bakery (better known for its soft and creamy vanilla ice cream) and the coffee at liquid, which claims to have the largest coffee bar in Amsterdam, or the Netherlands, or Europe, or the world, or the galaxy.... It is long. 

The Marilyn Monroe exhibit at the Nieuwe Kerk

From there it’s a short walk to the Nieuwe Kerk (New Church) (Gravenstraat 17, 1012 NL), a former church now used for exhibitions and church organ recitals. The church with its stained glass windows and vaulted ceilings is still used for Dutch royal installation ceremonies and royal weddings. There is currently an exhibition about the life of movie heartthrob Marilyn Monroe (90 years Ms Monroe) that runs till February 5. Pictures and artifacts are used to trace the rise and tragic death of one the world’s biggest stars.  

Inside the Royal Waiting Room at Centraal Station

The next stop is Centraal Station. Walk to the end of the second platform where there’s an unassuming brick building with a guilt wrought iron fence. This is the Royal Waiting Room (Koninklijke Wachtkamer) and it is now available for public tours when reserved in advance. The upstairs waiting room has parquet floors, oak paneling and painted representations of fables Aisopos. The furniture, marble fireplace, lamps and rugs and bronze hinges and locks are all original. The room is still used a few times a year as the royal family still occasionally travels by train to neighboring countries or to receive dignitaries who arrive to Amsterdam by train. 

The Butcher Social Club & Terrace in the Sir Adam Hotel

It should be lunch time and just past the Centraal Station is a free ferry to Amsterdam Noord (North). At the end of the quick water ride is the brand new Sir Adam Hotel (Overhoeksplein 7, 1031KS), which occupies first eight floors of the black A’DAM Tower. The large lower lobby with window walls and an outside terrace is where the Butcher Social Club & Terrace is located. This is a modern hotel created for Millennials with retro taste. Old fashion pinball and Pacman machines are located near the long bar area. Comfortable chairs are scattered about and at night a DJ works the room. Window walls provide views of the water and Central Amsterdam. The guest rooms are “rock ‘n’ roll” themed from different periods with Gibson and Fender guitars as wall decorations, portable record players and memorabilia from bygone musical eras. If you feel inclined you can order a guitar to play through room service. At the Butcher you can order a quick burger (I’d go with the Truffle Burger) with a beer and a view before heading back on the ferry. 

Inside the Van Loon Museum

Certainly Amsterdam is known for its world class museums but there is one little gem that is often overlooked: Museum Van Loon. It’s a 17th Century canal house with 18th Century furnishings and has been occupied by the Van Loon family since the latter part of the 19th Century. Family members still live in the upper floors of the house. The first two floors are open to the public and contain a history of the family. Their wealth was acquired when Willem van Loon co-founded the incredibly successful Dutch East-India Company in 1602.

The rooms contain paintings, fine furniture, silver and porcelain from different centuries. Behind the house is a garden, laid out in formal style, and is bordered on the far side by the classical façade of the coach house. The basement contains a replica of an 18th Century kitchen. The museum claims that it is the canal house that has survived with its garden and coach house in tact. 

In the gardens you can treat yourself to apple cake and coffee or tea. It’s where the locals go for a quick escape.

From there it’s a quick walk to the Rijksmuseum. The palatial building has undergone a full renovation and is well worth an hour or two to look at the collection of more than a half-million paintings and other works of art from Netherland-based artists. You can’t possibly see it all at one time so it pays to focus on a part of the collection that interests you, such as works by students of Rembrandt. You can explore the museum’s website to help set up your own personal tour.

The ICE* Amsterdam skating rink with the Rijksmuseum in the background.

Right outside the museum is the ICE* Amsterdam ice rink where you spend time skating or watching the skaters with a hot chocolate from the comfortable restaurant. Children just learning use chairs to keep their balance. At night the skating area glows in colorful lights with the Rijksmuseum as a palatial backdrop.

Restaurant Swych in the Amsterdam Doelen hotel

From there it’s a quick tram ride for a light meal at Restaurant Swych in the Amsterdam Doelen hotel (Doelenstraat 26, 1012 CP). The hotel is billed as the oldest in Amsterdam but you would never guess it when entering the hotel with its light-colored walls and carpeting and clean, crisp lines. The same is true for the restaurant with its bright color palette and large windows bringing natural light during the day and the lights from across the canal at night. The cuisine is modern serving what executive chef Rudolf Brand describes as “Flexitarian,” where proteins play second fiddle to vegetables that are the centerpiece of the meal. The Butter lettuce soup, Beetroots and spelt, Roasted cauliflower, and Jerusalem artichoke and truffle are all recommended—with a “side” of halibut. 

From there it’s another quick tram ride to the theater. There are two major theaters in the city and they are adjacent. The DeLaMar Theater (Marnixstraat 402, 1017 PL), is the larger and more modern of the two. Its stage is about twice as large as a normal stage and goes into the seating area. It’s designed to be open and flexible so it can accommodates a number of stage setting settings, particularly for modern plays. 

The Stadsschouwburg

With just one night to see a play, I would opt for the historic and more traditional setting of the Stadsschouwburg (Leidseplein 26, 1017 PT). It is an official national monument and is known to be one of the most beautifully preserved historic theaters in the Netherlands. I would try to purchase tickets in the box normally reserved for the royal family at the center- back of the center of the first balcony. It provides a perfect view of the performance. They obviously don’t use it every night and when it’s not in use the seats are sold to the public. There’s also a private waiting area for the royal family during intermissions. However, it’s not included with the seats. 

Both theaters accommodate a diverse offering of classic and modern plays, ballets and other types of live performances. 

Afterwards it’s time for a nice stroll back to the Pulitzer where you’ve earned a long well-deserved rest before heading home the next afternoon. 

Don’t forget the “do not disturb” sign. 

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$1M Swiss Watch Made Of Swiss Cheese And That’s No Bull

January 12, 2017, 10:14 am

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Specialist Swiss watchmaker H. Moser & Cie. used Swiss cheese to create a watch made in protest of the recently updated “Swiss made” requirement. 

Called the “Swiss Mad Watch” it doesn’t refer to Mad Cow Disease but to being mad at the new updated requirement that 60 percent of the watch components must be of Swiss origin in order to be considered eligible for the Swiss Made label—a 10 percent increase over the previous requirement. Edouard Meylan, CEO of the independent watchmaker based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, uses more than 95 percent of Swiss-origin components to make its watches. He strongly feels the Swiss Made standard is inadequate and his company should not be held to the same standard as those who barely meet the requirement. The company said it will remove the Swiss Made label from all of its new watches starting this year.

"Our Swiss Mad Watch sends a clear message to the Swiss watchmaking industry, the authorities and watch enthusiasts: the Swiss Made label is meaningless,” Meylan said in a statement. “Worse than this, it gives credibility to the worst abuses in our industry. Our response to this lax and insufficient label is derision. At H. Moser & Cie. we produce watches that are truly Swiss, watches that are steeped in watchmaking tradition and centuries of experience. The quality of these pieces speaks for itself and dispenses with the need for a label. We are no longer ‘Swiss Made,’ but we are Swiss—100 precent Swiss in the case of the Swiss Mad Watch and over 95 percent Swiss for all of our other models.”

While there is satire mixed in with this protest it is as serious the price of this one-of-a-kind watch, 1,081,291 Swiss francs. The cost refers to the signing of the Swiss Federal Charter on August 1, 1291. All proceeds from its sale will be used to create a fund to support independent Swiss watchmaking suppliers that the company says are “currently suffering under the difficult economic situation and outsourcing to Asia. These are the very artisans who keep traditional Swiss watchmaking alive and who help it to continually evolve.”

The 42mm case of the Swiss Mad Watch is created from real Swiss cheese as a base material, specifically a Vacherin Mont d’Or médaille d’or, mixed with itr2, a composite material. It is then machined and polished with H. Moser signature finishes. For the strap, Swiss cowhide (the obvious choice) is used. The watch is finished with a red fumé dial and doubled indices at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock, subtly reminiscent of the Swiss flag. It is powered by an in-house, hand-wound, mechanical HMC 327 caliber.

“Created in Switzerland, by Swiss watchmakers and using Swiss materials, the Swiss Mad Watch has symbolic value, tackling Swiss Made debate head on to reveal the truth behind this label,” Meylan said. “With this unique watch, H. Moser & Cie. demonstrates the importance and urgency of returning Swiss Made to its former heights. Echoing the absurdity and the ridiculous change to the Swiss Made legislation, H. Moser & Cie.'s satirical comment on the issue highlights an alternative resource, 100 percent natural and entirely Swiss, one of the most precious Swiss resources that exists: cows. 

To go with the watch and protest, the company created the hashtag, #MakeSwissMadeGreatAgain.

Below is a tongue-in-cheek video about the watch.

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Richard Mille Unveils The World’s Lightest Chronograph

January 26, 2017, 2:08 pm

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The Richard Mille RM 50-03 McLaren F1 Split-Seconds Tourbillon Chronograph weighs 40 grams (1.41 ounces), which the watchmaker says makes it the world’s lightest mechanical chronograph ever on the market. Its weight achievement is due to the use of ultra-light and high-strength materials for the case and the movement.

For this timepiece, Richard Mille teamed with McLaren-Honda, one of the best-known builders of racing cars and a company known for its work with ultra-lightweight and high-strength alloys. The watch had its first full public showing at the recently concluded Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).

The bezel and caseback feature Graph TPT, a Carbon TPT material whose physical properties have been improved by the injection of graphene, a nanomaterial six times lighter than steel but 200 times more resistant, according to the watchmaker. 

Richard Mille collaborated with The University of Manchester (where graphene was first isolated by Professor Andre Geim in 2004 who won the Nobel Prize in Physics for its discovery), McLaren Applied Technologies and North Thin Ply Technology, to produce a watch case machined with what it calls an improved form of Carbon TPT. 

The RM50-03 caliber has a “record-breaking” weight of just seven grams, according to the watch brand, achieved through the combination of high-tech materials and skeletonization. The baseplate and bridges are made of corrosion resistant and rigid grade 5 titanium. Some of the bridges of the split-seconds chronograph are made of Carbon TPT, as is the transverse carriage that supports the caliber with the barrel and tourbillon bridges. Attached to the caseback, this carriage circumvents the need for a casing ring, allowing the movement to be integrated into the case. The company says the caliber, despite its ultra-light-weight, was tested to be resistant to shocks of 5,000 Gs and has a 70-hour power reserve. 

The split-seconds mechanism features a new Richard Mille column wheel that now has six columns, as opposed to eight in previous versions. The watch brand says this optimizes simultaneous movement, maximal function locking and greater adjustment durability. The helical spring was replaced by a blade on the split seconds wheel of the RM 50-03.

The pusher at 8 o'clock starts or stops the seconds hand of the chronograph. The pusher at 4 o'clock stops the split seconds hand and allows an intermediary time to be read off while the chronograph is engaged. When this pusher is pressed again, the split-seconds hand catches up with the chronograph hand and simultaneously continues its course. The pusher at 10 o'clock resets the hands.

A torque indicator displays the tension of the mainspring and makes it possible to optimize the winding of the watch. A function indicator displays winding, hand setting or the neutral position—similar to the gearbox on a car—when the watch crown is pulled out. A hand at 4 o'clock displays the selected mode: W (Winding) – N (Neutral) – H (Hand Setting).

Outside of its light weight and new advancements, RM 50-03 retains all of the codes of a Richard Mille watch, including the signature Tourneau-shaped case. In addition to the fabric strap, it is available in a rubber strap injected with graphene.

The watch will be available as early as June in a limited edition of 75 pieces and a price of $980,000.

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Illustrated History Of High Jeweler Oscar Heyman To Be Released In April

January 27, 2017, 7:06 am

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The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (MFA) will publish the first illustrated history of Oscar Heyman & Brothers, a U.S. high jewelry firm that has designed and crafted pieces for some of the world's most prestigious jewelry brands since 1912.

Oscar Heyman: The Jewelers’ Jeweler contains new photography of vintage and contemporary pieces created by the New York jewelry house, as well as design drawings from the firm’s archives. The book reveals Oscar Heyman’s important role in the story of high-style American jewelry.

The book is authored by Yvonne J. Markowitz, Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan, curator emerita of Jewelry at the MFA, and Elizabeth Hamilton, an independent writer and researcher. It is produced by MFA Publications, the publishing division of the museum. It will be available April 1 in the MFA Shops, retail bookstores and online. It is one of several titles dedicated to jewelry that have been produced by MFA Publications in recent years.

Oscar Heyman is known within the jewelry industry for creating pieces for some of the most prestigious jewelry brands in world, including Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, Shreve, Crump & Low and Black, Starr & Frost. 

“For more than a century, Oscar Heyman & Brothers … has maintained a national reputation for outstanding ornaments set with superior gemstones,” Markowitz said. “Until recently, the Oscar Heyman name was unknown outside the jewelry world, as the company preferred anonymity and discretion, but today the brand is synonymous with dazzling, high-style jewels.”

Oscar Heyman & Brothers has been a family business since its establishment, now in its third generation. The company’s founding brothers, Oscar and Nathan, apprenticed at a workshop that produced high-style ornaments for the Russian court jeweler Peter Carl Fabergé before leaving Eastern Europe for New York. Within a few years, they established their own firm, distinctive for dynamic and contemporary designs, fine craftsmenship, technological sophistication and high-quality materials. Eventually, the other Heyman brothers joined the growing business, which remains entirely autonomous—maintaining in-house production of jewelry from inception through completion—to this day.

“It’s inspiring to see how far Oscar Heyman has come since my grandfather and great uncles started the business,” said Tom Heyman, partner at Oscar Heyman & Brothers. “Readers will come to appreciate our rich history and unique combination of engineering capabilities, technical skill and artistic style, which enable us to continue to create one-of-a-kind pieces.”

The publication tells the firm’s history from its beginnings at the turn of the 20th Century and traces its growth and innovation decade by decade. Nearly 70 ornaments are highlighted, demonstrating how the business adapted new aesthetics in response to the changing desires of consumers. The earliest examples include a 1929 platinum, diamond and emerald brooch from the MFA’s collection. Originally owned and frequently worn by the heiress and art collector Marjorie Merriweather Post, the brooch fuses design elements of Art Deco and the Edwardian era.

Major milestones detailed in the book include the firm’s participation in two New York World’s Fairs. In 1939, Oscar Heyman & Brothers manufactured ornaments for four prominent retailers on display at the “House of Jewels,” one of the most extravagant exhibition pavilions. Although unknown to the public, the firm’s involvement in the exhibition solidified its reputation among clients, as many retailers recognized the signature floral designs, exquisite craftsmanship and superior gems. The next New York World’s Fair, held in 1964, did not have a dedicated jewelry pavilion but Oscar Heyman & Brothers designed the official commemorative necklace in partnership with the Linde Star Company.

The publication also contains 15 design drawings from the Oscar Heyman Archive. These include designs for patriotic World War II ornaments, such as brooches featuring the American eagle, as well as for a diamond and emerald necklace that was made in 1956 and gifted decades later to Elizabeth Taylor by Michael Jackson. 

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New Distributor Named For Versace, Salvatore Ferragamo and Versus Versace Watches

January 27, 2017, 9:38 am

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Paolo Marai, president and CEO of the Timex Group Luxury Division

Timex Group Swiss Luxury Division (part of the Timex Group) has appointed MadaLuxe Group as the exclusive US distributor for its luxury brand name watches, which include Versace, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Versus Versace timepieces.

Timex Group Swiss Luxury Division markets designer label brand name watches in more than 65 countries worldwide through department stores, independent specialty retailers and boutiques, as well as primary digital e-commerce retail outlets. At the core of the division are Versace and Salvatore Ferragamo watches, both based in Switzerland. Together, these two iconic brand names represent the group’s unique position in the marketplace, delivering Italian style and design with traditional Swiss watch-making. The Group also distributes Versus Versace and other contemporary fashion brands targeting younger consumers with modern collections that feature current fashion looks and seasonal trends.

Paolo Marai, president and CEO of the Timex Group Luxury Division, said “We are confident that the team at MadaLuxe will represent a unique opportunity to strengthen our position in the USA market allowing us a further step in our growth plans.”

Marai, who oversees the Timex luxury Division worldwide, stated that the division has experienced strong growth since 2004 delivering fashionable styles and assurances that every watch is backed by the “Swiss Made” label. The growth of the division has been driven by increased distribution and sales in the Middle East and Asia, as well as a solid performance in Europe and the USA over the last several years, he said.

“The relationship with the Timex Group Swiss Luxury Division is an exciting opportunity for us, and we are honored to represent such iconic luxury timepieces and recognized brands,” said Sandy Sholl, CEO of MadaLuxe Group. 

MadaLuxe Group distributes men’s and women’s luxury brands from the most notable European fashion houses. This is the group’s first assignment in the watch category and reflects its ongoing expansion into the luxury brand sector.

Adam Freede, president of MadaLuxe Group, indicated that it will aggressively support the brand portfolio in the United States by focusing on a marketing-communication strategy that positions the brands as the most distinctive yet affordable luxury fashion timepieces available. 

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Ritani Names Deborah Fine As New CEO

January 27, 2017, 1:23 pm

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Ritani, a designer and manufacturer of engagement rings and fine jewelry with a vertically integrated, omnichannel sales model, has hired Deborah Fine as its chief executive officer. Fine, a veteran omnichannel executive, begins immediately and will split her time between Ritani’s Seattle and New York operation centers.

Fine replaces Brian Watkins who left Ritani in July, 2016, for what was reportedly described as personal reasons. 

Omnichannel relates to a type of retail that integrates different methods of shopping available to consumers, such as online and through a physical store.

Fine’s career transcends several industries, including consumer retail, fashion and beauty, lifestyle and media. She was previously the CEO of Direct Brands, the largest member- based retailer of media products in the U.S. president of iVillage, an NBC Universal company that was the first and largest media company dedicated to women online, CEO of Victoria’s Secret PINK, founder and president of Avon Mark Cosmetics, VP and publisher of Glamour magazine and publisher of Brides magazine.

“Deborah has demonstrated an impressive track record of leading best in class retail and media businesses and delivering significant results. Her experience and vision will help propel the growth strategy of the Ritani brand, as it seeks to gain market share in the omnichannel fine jewelry market,” said Henrique de Castro, head of Cantor Ventures, an investor in Ritani.

“I’m excited to join Ritani and lead the business in its next stage of development,” Fine said. “Ritani was the first to launch a true ‘clicks and bricks’ model in the category … Ritani’s legacy of craftsmanship, business model innovation, and the ability for consumers to design their own merchandise are strong pillars for growth. I look forward to working with the team here to continue to innovate and increase our market share across all relevant categories.”

Ritani designs and manufacturers bridal and fine jewelry and distributes its product through a network of 250 independent retailers through a “clicks-and-bricks” approach, where consumers can design their own engagement ring online and then have the ring shipped to a nearby jewelry store to preview in person. 

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Tiffany’s ‘Priceless’ Super Bowl Trophy

January 30, 2017, 4:17 am

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Since the first Super Bowl in 1967, even before it was known as the Super Bowl, Tiffany & Co. has designed and created the trophy that represents American professional football’s highest honor.

The design is simple, sleek and timeless. A regulation-size football sits angled on a stylized elongated and concaved three-sided kicking tee. The trophy stands 22 inches high and is made entirely of seven pounds of silver. This design has remained consistent during that the 51-year history of the game.

The trophy’s intrinsic value based on the spot price of sterling silver is approximately $1,617. However, Tiffany values the trophy as “priceless.” When you consider that the Super Bowl is the number one sporting event in the U.S. and the NFL is the number one sports league in the U.S., it would seem that Tiffany’s valuation is highly accurate.

As the legend goes Oscar Riedener, former Tiffany & Co. VP and head of design, sketched the trophy’s basic design on a napkin during a 1966 meeting with then NFL Commissioner Pete Rozelle. The trophy was first presented January 15, 1967, to the Green Bay Packers in what was then referred as the “AFL-NFL World Championship Game,” retroactively named Super Bowl I. It was inscribed with the words, “World Professional Football Championship.”

The Super Bowl name wasn’t officially used until Super Bowl III in 1969. The game, played on January 12 marked the first time the championship team from the American Football League (an upstart league that competed with the NFL) defeated the champion from the NFL in what is regarded as one of the greatest upsets in American sports history. The New York Jets defeated the Baltimore Colts 16–7. A year later the two leagues finalized their merger first announced in 1966 and launched the NFL into the modern era.

In 1970 the trophy was renamed the Vince Lombardi Trophy after the death of legendary Green Bay Packers coach, the winner of the first two Super Bowls.

While the design is the same, unlike many sports trophies it is created each year, currently at Tiffany’s workshop in Cumberland, R.I., according to the luxury jeweler. Master artisans employ age-old silversmithing techniques—which include spinning, chasing, hand engraving and polishing—requiring 72 man hours to complete.

After the field ceremony, the trophy will be returned to Tiffany’s workshop where the name of the winning team will be hand engraved.

Tiffany & Co. also creates the Pete Rozelle Trophy, which is presented annually to the Most Valuable Player of the Super Bowl by the National Football League; The Lamar Hunt Trophy, presented to the champion of the American Football Conference; and The George S. Halas Trophy, presented to the champion of the National Football Conference.  

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Bovet Unveils Three Watches For 2017

February 3, 2017, 6:16 am

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Bovet Récital 20 Astérium (Photo by Marc Gysin)

Bovet 1822, the independent watch brand that combines highly complex mechanical movements with high art and craft techniques, introduced three new watches for the new year. Each one adheres to the heritage of the brand while looking to the future.

The watch brand does nearly all of the work in-house. This includes its skeletonized and highly decorative movements, which are also known for their accuracy, reliability and innovation. And the finishes on the dials, movements and cases, which cover a range of decorative arts, from miniature paintings to advance lacquer techniques to delicate gold leaf work. 

In addition, many of their watches are not only reversible but can easily be converted to a pocket watch, a table clock, or even a bejeweled pendant for women, through the company’s “Amadeo” system. 

The back of the Bovet Récital 20 Astérium (Photo by Marc Gysin)

Bovet Récital 20 Astérium
One of this watch’s main complications is a 10-day flying tourbillon and its main artistic contribution is a night sky annual calendar with astronomical functions. Another complication of note is the equation of time function, which measures the difference between “apparent” or “true” solar time (that of nature) and “mean” solar time, created by man to bring a consistent measurement of time despite the natural variations of the Earth’s rotation and relation to the Sun. 

The largest sub-dial at 12 o’clock is a blue sapphire dome with a sky map that includes stars and constellations visible from the Earth that are laser-engraved and coated in Super-LumiNova. For an even more realistic view of the night sky, the highest stars are depicted at the top of the dome while the lowest stars nearer the horizon appear on the periphery of the display aperture. 

A sidereal calendar depicts the true duration of the Earth’s orbit around the Sun of 365 days, 6 hours, 9 minutes and 9.77 seconds, (or 365.25 days). Indicators on both sides of the watch, in addition to the complications already mentioned, include a 24 hour disk; retrograde minutes; moon phase indicator; a season, solstice and equinox indicator; and an astrological zodiac indicator. It is powered by the caliber 17DM02-SKY hand-wound movement with a 10-day power reserve.

Bovet Virtuoso VIII 10-Day Flying Tourbillon Big Date
This 44mm watch is available in red or white gold, or in platinum. At 10 o’clock is the power reserve indicator and at 2 o’clock is the big date complication. At 6 o’clock is the double face flying tourbillon with titanium bridges shaped to resemble wings. It is powered by the 17BM03-GD hand-wound caliber with a 10-day power reserve. The innovative movement earned three patents. It is limited to 80 pieces.

Bovet Récital 19 Miss Dimier
The streamlined elliptical steel case of this watch has a bezel set with 52 round diamonds. The blue dial is divided into two zones. The center of the dial is satin-brushed with circular lines, then coated with a PVD treatment. A transparent lacquer is then applied using traditional methods in successive coats. In contrast, the external part of the dial is directly lacquered in opaque blue. Twelve round diamonds serve as hour markers. The unusual shape of the hands form a heart each time they come together. It is powered by the 11DA17 automatic movement with a three-day power reserve.  

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The Most Stupendous Valentine’s Day Gift Guide Ever Assembled

February 3, 2017, 7:49 am

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LovePendants

The headline makes a big claim but when you look at the selection of jewels and watches that I put together you will no doubt agree that this is the best gift guide ever assembled in the known universe and even the unknown universe. If you don’t agree that these 14 items are the best gifts one can ever buy for Valentine’s Day I will give you a total refund of the money you never paid to view this. 

If there is a better to personalize a message of love than with LovePendants It allows people to personalize their jewelry by engraving round topaz, amethyst, green quartz or citrine with a symbol, letter or word that holds special significance. Gemstones are then set in either vermeil, silver or 14k gold and turned into a necklace, bracelet or charm. There are approximately 50,000 combinations that you can choose from. They can be purchased online through the LovePendants website.

Parulina is returning full time to jewelry creation and many consumers and retailers couldn’t be happier. Founded in 2003 by Parul Kuki Seth, she has the work ethic of a fashion industry veteran with the sensibility of an artist. The pink tourmalines and diamond earrings pictured are influenced by medieval symbols yet are refined and contemporary. For information on availability and where to purchase the product contact Parulina at 1-877-203-5753.

Misahara, a luxury jewelry brand founded by Lepa Galeb-Roskopp of Porto Montenegro, takes inspiration from the Adriatic Sea, African landscapes and other parts of the world where she travels. The Stena Drop Earrings features 13.8 carats of rubies, 138 carats of rubellites and white diamond set in 18k gold. It retails for $24,450. Misahara jewels are available at the brand’s flagship store in the Plaza Hotel, New York, the Wynn Las Vegas and Neiman Marcus. 

CartierJuste Un Clou Bracelet in 18k pink gold set with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds. This classic design was first introduced by the luxury brand in the 1970s. It retails for $21,200 and can be ordered through the Cartier website or at retail outlets worldwide. 

The Georg Jensen Love Knot was first introduced in the 1970s and has been relaunched by the Danish design brand. The collection of three sterling silver pieces focuses on a simple, subtle twist. The pieces range in price from $115 for a single knot ring, $265 for a single knot bangle and $400 for a double-knot bangle. They can be purchased on the Georg Jensen website or at the company’s retail outlets, including its store in New York.

Zorab Atelier de Creation is known for its elaborate and refined pieces combining exceptional gemstones with a very-high-level of craftsmanship. For example, the 18k rose gold ring pictured is paved in sapphire and diamonds and centered with 32 carat blue topaz. It retails for and is available at 1stdibs.com. 

The Harry Winston Premier Precious Love Automatic 36mm watch has a dial of pink mother-of-pearl, 10 heart-shaped rubies, diamonds and white mother-of-pearl lace to create a floral motif. The case is lined with 57 brilliant-cut diamonds. It is powered by the caliber HW 2014 automatic movement and limited to 14 pieces and is available at Harry Winston boutiques. 

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Astorite was created for Valentine’s Day. The dial is made of a single hand-polished piece of astorite, a gem that originates from one mine in Colorado. The pink background of the gem contains gold and silver inclusions, and black flecks veins giving the color added depth. The dial is finished with an off-center hours and minutes subdial at 12 o’clock. The bezel of the 35mm case is set with 232 diamonds. It is limited to 28 pieces. It retails for $32,600 and is available at Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Boutiques and official retailers. 

The Cuore Ferragamo watch is certainly an appropriate gift for Valentine’s Day. Its main detail is a “beating” heart that opens and closes on demand. Standard hours and minutes are located at an off-centered sub-dial surrounded by 40 brilliant-cut diamonds. The silver dial is further decorated with the iconic Gancino symbol in a textured pattern and the Ferragamo name at 3 o’clock. The 39mm case is made of gold plated silver. 

Kat Florence Vermillion Topaz ring with D flawless diamonds features a 3.6-carat topaz center stone accented with 0.73 carats of D flawless diamonds. It retails for $44,648 and can be ordered through the Kat Florence website or at her London boutique.

The Madyha Farooqui Geonova amethyst pendant earrings are bordered by rows of diamonds set in 18k gold. It retails for $15,895 and can be ordered through the New York-based designer’s website.

Versace St. Valentine's Day Rêvive celebrates the day in red, from the scarlet leather strap, two rubies and the double Versace logo on the bezel, to the red crystal cabochon set on the crown. Other features include a 35mm two-tone steel case, big lugs and the brand’s iconic Medusa head at 12 o’clock. It retails for $1,495 and is available at Versace boutiques and Bloomingdale's.

Lagos Caviar Color Gemstone Bracelet uses blue topaz to enhance the jewelry brand’s iconic Caviar design. It retails for $750 and is available on the company’s website or at retailers throughout the U.S.

Amy Burton Fine Jewellery recently launched with three collections. The Disorient collection is characterized by strong architectural lines that play with volume and geometry. The centerpiece is a cuff bangle made of entwined gold woven around a 123.70-carat amethyst. This and her other jewels are available exclusively at Hancocks London. 

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Tiffany CEO Frederic Cumenal ‘Steps Down’ Amid Financial Disappointment

February 5, 2017, 3:10 pm

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Frederic Cumenal

In a Super Bowl Sunday shocker Tiffany & Co. said that Frederic Cumenal has “stepped down” as its chief executive officer, effective immediately. Michael J. Kowalski, chairman of the Tiffany’s board of directors and previous CEO, will serve as interim CEO while the company works with an executive search firm to finds a successor. In a statement, the company said the decision was based on disappointing financial results.

“The board is committed to our current core business strategies, but has been disappointed by recent financial results,” Kowalski said in a statement. “The board believes that accelerating execution of those strategies is necessary to compete more effectively in today’s global luxury market and improve performance.”

The announcement came just hours before the luxury jewelry retailer plans to unveil Lady Gaga as the face of its new fashion jewelry collection, Tiffany HardWear, with its first ever Super Bowl commercial prior to her halftime performance. The company also creates the Vince Lombardi Trophy, presented to the Super Bowl champion, as well as the Pete Rozelle Trophy, presented to the Most Valuable Player of the Super Bowl.

Even taking into consideration that most news and financial staffs will have skeleton crews working and the nation will be focused on the game rather than personnel moves, the timing of the announcement during such an important time for the company seems surprising. 

Mark L. Aaron, Tiffany's VP-Investor Relations, said on Sunday that the timing was coincidental. “That’s just the way it happened,” he said. “Analysts, investors and media work 24-7 and it still gives people a chance to watch the Super Bowl.”

Michael J. Kowalski

Cumenal replaced Kowalski as the Tiffany’s CEO April 1, 2015. He previously served as president of the company with responsibilities for worldwide sales and distribution as well as design, merchandising and marketing functions. He initially joined Tiffany in March 2011 as an executive vice president with responsibilities for sales and distribution.

“On behalf of the entire board of directors, I would like to thank Frederic Cumenal for his contributions to Tiffany,” Kowalski said. “At a time of continuing challenges in the global luxury market, Frederic has enhanced the management team and taken important steps to position Tiffany for success in the long term. We wish him the best in his future endeavors.”

Cumenal said in the statement, “I am proud of what we have accomplished at Tiffany and would like to thank the management team and our many talented employees around the world with whom I have had the pleasure to work. I have great confidence in Tiffany's brand, strategic direction and people, and I believe the company will have many exciting opportunities in the future.” 

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The Plumb Club Says It Has A Plan For Growth

February 8, 2017, 8:11 am

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The Plumb Pavilion at the JCK Las Vegas jewelry trade show

The Plumb Club—a coalition of jewelry, diamond and watch manufacturers—says it has a three-year plan to expand its membership base through “trade show involvement, member branding opportunities, industry leadership roles, responsible sourcing and best business practices, and marketing and communications to enhance” its brand.

The Plumb Club’s 42 firms account for 20 percent to 25 percent of the $8 billion dollar domestic fine jewelry market, according to the organization. It is perhaps best known for its exhibition pavilion at the annual JCK Las Vegas Show.

One key change will be opening its membership to companies beyond those that exhibit at trade shows. The organization says this will grow its influence, ensure that all product categories are represented and generate added retail support. 

The Plumb Club logo

In addition, the group plans to establish representation on the boards of select industry non-profits and also will require members to comply with responsible sourcing principles by either completing Responsible Jewellery Council certification or its own internal compliance requirements.

“What’s remarkable about The Plumb Club is that it’s the only U.S. trade association of important jewelry, diamond and watch suppliers whose members pool their resources and knowledge to improve our business environment by connecting with retailers, doing business responsibly, and helping to determine policies that will positively impact the future of the jewelry industry,” says Jonathan Goodman Cohen, president of The Plumb Club. “Our members have exceptional expertise and experience in product development, manufacturing, marketing, and distribution.” 

Suppliers interested in becoming Plumb Club members can contact Lawrence Hess, executive director, at 201-816-8881 or by following this link. 

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Three Richard Mille Watches Celebrate 50th Anniversary Of Racing Legend Jean Todt

February 8, 2017, 12:42 pm

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RM11-03 Jean Todt 50th Anniversary

Jean Todt has an ongoing 50-year automotive career winning racing championships as a co-driver and an executive in charge of racing teams for Peugeot and Ferrari. He and Richard Mille also are good friends. 

To help the French native celebrate his 50th year in the high-performance automobile industry, Mille created three watches, each bearing Todt’s name and his favorite colors. 

The RM 11-03 Jean Todt 50th Anniversary (top photo) is a flyback chronograph inspired by automobiles and their history. Powered by an automatic caliber in grade 5 titanium, it is protected by a new blue and white Quartz TPT case. Extremely resistant and light, this composite is obtained by stacking 600 layers of silica only 45 microns thick, which are then saturated with an exclusive Richard Mille blue resin. The assembly is then heated to 120 degrees Celsius before being machined in Richard Mille’s factory. 

The watch was unveiled and presented to Todt during a celebration of his career this past September at the Chantilly Arts & Elegance, an international automobile competition and rally in the tradition of the Concours d’Elegance hosted by Richard Mille. It is available in a limited edition of 150 pieces.

RM 050 Jean Todt 50th Anniversary

The same Blue Quartz TPT is used for the case of the RM 050. This caliber houses a split-seconds chronograph regulated by a tourbillon. The extreme skeletonization of the bridges and baseplate, combined with the use of titanium and carbon nanofiber resulted in a movement weighing only 9.5 grams. It is limited to five pieces.

RM 056 Jean Todt 50th Anniversary

This same caliber for the RM 050 is used for the RM 056, which is housed in a sapphire case. Its construction and curvature required very long machining times. This case required no less than 1,000 hours of machining, including 430 hours devoted to grinding and 350 hours of polishing. It is limited to three pieces. 

In 1966, Todt began his career as a co-driver culminating in 1981 when he and Guy Fréquelin won World Rally Championships. The following year he was appointed Peugeot’s director of Racing and founded Peugeot Talbot Sport, which won World Rally Championship titles in 1985 and 1986, as well as first place in the general classification at the four editions of the Paris-Dakar Rally between 1987 and 1990. In 1990, he became director of Sporting Activities of the PSA Peugeot Citroën Group, overseeing Peugeot’s participation in the World Sports Car Championships, which Peugeot won in 1992. It also claimed two victories at the 1992 and 1993 Le Mans 24 Hours.  

In 1993 Jean Todt left Peugeot to become manager of Ferrari’s Racing Division. During his tenure, Scuderia Ferrari won 14 Formula One world titles and 106 Grand Prix victories. He eventually became CEO of Ferrari. In 2009 he left Ferrari and was elected president of the FIA, a position he currently holds. He also serves as a United Nations Special Envoy for Road Safety, and is founder of the ICM, an institute devoted to medical research for brain and spinal cord disorders.

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Italian Exhibition Group Acquires Arezzo Gold Jewelry Trade Shows

February 10, 2017, 8:52 am

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Italian trade fair and government representatives at a press conference in Rome

The newly formed Italian Exhibition Group (IEG) trade show company expanded its footprint in the Italian jewelry and gold industry by taking over the organization and management of the OroArezzo and Gold Italy trade fairs. The two shows are held at Arezzo Fiere e Congressi in the Tuscany region’s city of Arezzo. It is one of the two major gold jewelry manufacturing centers in Italy. 

With this agreement IEG becomes the trade fair representative for the entire Italian gold and jewelry industry, valued at more than $6 billion, according to an Italian government official. 

The agreement was announced Thursday at a press conference in Rome attended by trade fair representatives and national and regional government officials, including Ivan Scalfarotto, undersecretary for the Ministry of Economic Development; Stefano Ciuoffo, Tuscany Region councilor for production, credit, tourism and commerce; Lorenzo Cagnoni, IEG president; Matteo Marzotto, executive IEG VP; Corrado Facco, IEG managing director; and Andrea Boldi, president of Arezzo Fiere e Congressi.

“The strategic agreement with Arezzo Fiere e Congressi spotlights Italian Exhibition Group's competence as a central, cutting edge trade show player for the jewelry sector on a global scale,” Facco said. “The Italian segment is Europe’s most important, and certainly most qualified, production district in terms of design and technological innovation.” 

IEG was formed in October 2016 with the merger of two Italian trade fair companies, Fiera di Vicenza and Rimini Fiera. IEG said at the time the alliance makes the new entity a “top player in Italy” in terms of directly organized shows with 61 fairs in its portfolio (90 percent own by the trade fair organizations) and 160 other events and congresses. The company also said it was the first example of a merger between trade show enterprises in Italy.

Among Fiera di Vicenza trade shows are VicenzaOro, held three times per year (which includes a trade show in Dubai). It is centered in Vicenza in the Veneto region, the other of the two major gold jewelry manufacturing centers in Italy. 

“Italian Exhibition Group will be managing an overall four events in Italy, one in Dubai, the official presence in the United States and a series of other strategic operations in Asia,” Facco said. “Therefore, IEG’s role as a content provider takes on even greater value, thus consolidating its international leadership in the marketing, communication and production of events linked to business for high range luxury goods.”

The new company’s aggressive stance toward locking up the trade fair sector in Italy for the jewelry industry seems to coincide with its plan to issue an Initial Public Offering as early as this year. The company made this announcement during the recently concluded VicenzaOro January trade fair. 

In addition, officials at the press conference in Rome said it coincides with Italian government initiatives to consolidate the industry in order to better promote internationally the “Made in Italy” quality production merchandise mark (indicating that a product is all planned, manufactured and packed in Italy) throughout the jewelry industry’s supply and production chain.

“This agreement is a decisive step for the development of a segment that is worth over $6 billion in exports. Know-how and organizational abilities are thus being united in order to compete in an increasingly more complex market, where company dimensions and project aims and ambitions make the difference,” Scalfarotto said. “We allocated almost $9 million euros to the gold and jewelry industry last year, providing support to our companies' participation at foreign trade shows and strengthening the biggest events in Italy. For 2017, we will be firmly continuing our efforts. After the plan aimed at the U.S. market, which began in 2016, we will be placing particular focus on Asia and the Middle East.”

IEG noted that despite the consolidation it will continue to promote the trade shows as regional fairs within their territories, “albeit with a considerable view to systematization.” 

“The aim is to strengthen and boost the industry by increasing business opportunities for exhibitors, stimulating the domestic market and favoring the presence of international buyers in order to help companies gain access to strategic jewelry markets,” IEG said in a statement. 

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BAFTA Versus Grammy Red Carpet Jewelry Battle, Who Wins?

February 13, 2017, 11:36 am

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Beyoncé wearing a $12 million necklace by Lorraine Schwartz with 400 carats of diamonds. Photo by Getty Images

Sunday was a busy night for style and fashion watchers. Two international award presentations were held on both ends of the pond on Sunday. Not to mention New York Fashion Week. But let’s forget about that last one. 

The red carpet parades for both the Grammy Awards in Los Angeles and the BAFTAs in London (the British equivalent of the Oscars) provided some standouts glimpses of fine jewelry. The larger brands were not in full force at either event but those who did make it favored the BAFTAs. The Grammys in particular provided a chance for independent designers to show their stuff on a big stage without being overwhelmed by the large brands. It won’t be like this for the Oscars on February 26. 

The BAFTA Jewels

Photo by REX Shutterstock

One of the most talked about jewels of the evening have an unknown origin. Kate Middleton wore a pair of sizable drop-shaped chandelier diamond earrings with what appears to be a large pear-shaped diamond in the center, possibly a light pink diamond. As of Monday afternoon the origin of the earrings is a mystery.

Photo by Anthony Harvey/Getty Images

Nicole Kidman wore more than 130 carats of Harry Winston Diamonds. The long Caftan Diamond Tassel Necklace (67.63 carats) set in platinum was the showstopper. It was accompanied by emerald-cut diamond earstuds, a marquise Cluster diamond bracelet, a pear-shaped Cluster diamond Ring, and a Winston Cluster diamond brooch, all set in platinum.

Chopard dressed two celebrities for the event. French actress Isabelle Huppert wore a pair of 18k white gold earrings set with pear-shaped emeralds (68cts), pear-shaped diamonds (14cts) and marquise-cut diamonds; as well as an 18k white and rose gold ring set with a 2-carat heart-shaped fancy orange pink diamond, a 2-carat heart-shaped diamond (2cts) and brilliant diamonds, both from the High Jewelry Collection, and two rings from the Ice Cube Collection.

Penelope Cruz wore an 18k rose gold ring set with rubellites and brilliant diamonds from Chopard’s Temptations Collection.

Photo by REX

London-based jewelry designer Kat Florence provided jewels for two BAFTA winners. Emily Leo, who received the award for “Outstanding Debut by a British Writer,” wore Kat Florence Zultanite earrings. 

Actress Hayley Squires from I Daniel Blake, winner of “Outstanding British Film,” was adorned in Kat Florence Lumiere earrings and Lemon Tanzanite ring.

Actress and producer Daisy Ridley wore the Cartier Paris Nouvelle Vague bracelet in 18k white gold, lacquer and diamonds; the C de Cartier earrings in 18k white gold and diamonds; and Reflection de Cartier earrings in 18k white gold, diamonds.

Actress Holliday Grainger was decked out in Forevermark Diamonds, a De Beers diamond brand. Specifically she wore Diamond Cluster earrings and a Two Stone Diamond Cocktail ring, both set in 18k white gold.


The Grammy Jewels:

Beyoncé (top photo) was inexplicably snubbed again by the Grammy voters but she still wore it well as the Diva was adorned with a $12 million necklace by Lorraine Schwartz featuring 400 carats of diamonds as told by Marion Fasel of Adventurine.

Celine Dion wore Dvani emerald with diamond earrings

Jennifer Lopez wore Butani diamond bracelet and rings

Grammy nominee Mya wore diamond jewels by L’Dezen by Payal Shah

Taraji P. Henson wore Hearts on Fire diamond studs

Laverne Cox wore a Borgioni bracelet

Kat Graham wore Le Vian diamond studs

Kimberly Schlapman of Little Big Town wore Lydia Courteille earrings

Giuliana Rancic wore L’Dezen by Payal Shah diamond earrings and a Le Vian ring

So which awards show wins? You decide. 

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