The September Hong Kong Fair Is Now All About the Jewelry

September 13, 2018, 11:31 pm

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The finished jewelry section of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair (HKCEC) opened Friday with the ceremonial dragon dance offering good luck to all exhibitors and buyers.

The fair officially opened two days earlier at the AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE) convention center near the Hong Kong international airport with companies that specialize in diamonds, gems, pearls and other jewelry making materials. However, the jewelry portion of the fair, which displays products ranging from the most basic to the most exclusive, marks the true start of the annual event.

It is one of the world’s largest jewelry and gem fairs, if not the largest, and with the continued economic growth in China and other Asian markets, it is one of the most important events on the jewelry industry calendar. UBM Asia, which owns and operates the trade show, said in terms of exhibitors, 3,700, it is the largest in the fair’s history. Whether that results in more buyers attending will be known in the next few days.

It is also the most international of all jewelry shows. At any given moment somewhere on the 135,000 square meters of exhibit space you will see Japanese pearl jewelry exhibitors doing business with retailers from Dubai, Chinese jewelry manufacturers selling to South American distributors and Polish amber jewelers selling to the Chinese market. In addition, it’s a true business show. There are few new product launches or big corporate events. All of the action is done at the booths.

The day at HKCEC began with a large number of people in registration lines and even larger numbers of buyers waiting in long lines for the doors to fair to open. A large crowd also gathered around the dragon dance performers just as the doors opened to the fair.

While all of the trading is going on, Super Typhoon Mangkhut is barreling towards Hong Kong, described as a Signal 9 storm, among the strongest on the 10-plus point scale. If it does hit Hong Kong and remains a Category 9, the show will at least temporarily close Sunday.

The materials portion of the show at the AWE will end Sunday and the finished jewelry at the HKCEC will run till Tuesday.

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Jewelry Industry Officials Discuss Change At Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

September 14, 2018, 12:38 am

≫ Next: Exceptional Antique and Vintage Jewels at the September Hong Kong Fair

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As the expression goes, change is the only constant in life and the jewelry industry is going through monumental change. Some of it even hits close to home. This was the dominant theme at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair press conference.

The first change is UBM Asia, the largest operator of jewelry trade fairs in the world, has merged with Informa, a London-based company that bills itself as an international business-to-business information services group.

The second change is that Wolfram Diener, senior VP of UBM Asia and a big presence at the Hong Kong jewelry fairs, will be leaving. After 22 years of living in Hong Kong and China, the German native has accepted a new job as managing director of Messe Düsseldorf.

Diener, 57, led his last press conference at the Hong Kong jewelry fair calling it his “final curtain” and introducing his replacement, his close friend, David Bondi, who was in attendance.

In the rest of his presentation he noted that Thailand, with 400 exhibitors of finished jewels, gemstones and supplies, is the largest contingent at the fair, outside of exhibitors from Hong Kong and China. He added there is strong participation from Japan and an increase in exhibitors from Turkey.

Eight leaders of trade associations from Hong Kong and China gave a review of business in the first nine months of the year and what they expect by the end of 2018. Most of the speakers reported strong turnover but also expressed concern due to U.S. and China trade tensions and a strengthening U.S. dollar.

Lawrence Ma, founding president of the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, said diamond sales increased by 8.7 percent for the first half of the year. However, he added, that he is “cautiously optimistic when it comes to business at the September Hong Kong jewelry fair. “I expect a good show but not necessarily a great show.”

Ken Lo, chairman of the Hong Kong Jewellery and Jade Manufacturers Association, said his organization saw double digit sales gains for the first half of the year but agreed with Ma that events outside their influence could dampen sales for the rest of the year. “I’m very cautious at the year’s end about what’s going to happen,” he said.

Most of the other speakers talked about the challenges being posed by Millennial and Generation Y consumers and how they could disrupt jewelry distribution channels in China.

The press conference itself, an annual event, underwent some change as well. In the past all of the officials sat in front and addressed the media sitting in chairs. This year they added tables and provided lunch for those in attendance.

Change comes in many forms.

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Exceptional Antique and Vintage Jewels at the September Hong Kong Fair

September 16, 2018, 3:21 am

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An emerald and diamond tiara by Bijan & Co. It was in the antique and vintage jewelry area but it is a new piece. Photo Credit: Anthony DeMarco

Tucked in a corner of the Hong Kong Convention & Exposition Center are antique and vintage jewels. It doesn’t get the press or attention that the large manufacturers and branded designers receive but it is an essential part of the September Hong fair. The space itself is easy to miss but those attracted to these special pieces and art objects were there in strong numbers.

The selection is quite diverse and the quality overall is exceptional. Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany and Bulgari were well represented; as were many famous individual designers such as Verdura, Schlumberger and Belperron. The section overall was very crowded with buyers on the opening day and upon returning for the second day it was one of the busiest areas of the show.

Several Bulgari pieces being offered by Dover Jewelry & Diamonds. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The Aaron Faber booth in particular was filled with people throughout the first two days of the finished jewelry portion of the fair at HKCEC. The New York-based dealers specialize in artist-made, classic and estate jewelry, and vintage timepieces. When I asked the owners Ed Faber and Patricia Kiley Faber said people are interested in the stories they provide behind the pieces they sell. In other words plenty of people were listening to the stories but not necessarily buying the pieces. However, there were certainly buyers among those who were listening to the stories. They’ve been exhibiting at the September Hong Kong fair for several years.

Meanwhile, Moe Haghighi of Dover Jewelry & Diamonds, Miami, has been exhibiting at the fair for three years and he’s happy overall with the amount of business he does and the quality of buyers.

Not all of the jewels were vintage or antique. Some of these antique and vintage jewelry dealers also design and craft jewels. In one display case there was an emerald and diamond tiara that was certainly at home with the jewels from the past. Only it was a new piece from Bijan & Co., based in New York. It was part of a set of one-of-kind pieces.

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When Super Typhoon Mangkhut Became A Real Threat

September 16, 2018, 3:39 am

≫ Next: Luxury Jewels Were In Abundance at the September Hong Kong Fair

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Buyers in the jade the day before the typhoon. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

For the first three days at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, the Super Typhoon Mangkhut was an afterthought. However, on Saturday the storm became real.

On the fourth day of the materials portion of the fair at the AsiaWorld-Expo and the second day of the finished jewelry portion of the fair at the Hong Kong Convention & Expo Centre, the hurricane and the impending disruption was the main topic of discussion. It is affecting business. Many exhibitors said that buyers canceled appointments Saturday so they can leave before the airport shut down Sunday.

Exhibitors of luxury jewels most likely saw the largest number of cancellations but it wasn't a total loss, exhibitors said.

“People I expected did not show up but it’s okay,” said an exhibitor in the Fine Design Pavilion. A diamond jewelry exhibitor in the Premier Pavilion said business was good Saturday and the number of people around the booth proved his point.

Certainly the Hong Kong and Chinese buyers were not overly influenced by the typhoon. These type of storms are a way of life for coastal residences in China and its autonomous regions, such as Macau, Hong Kong and Taiwan.

The aisles were certainly not as busy as normal but there were still plenty of people milling through the various themed halls throughout the HKCEC and they were buying. I visited the entire show and while exhibitors were a bit gloomy, they understood the circumstances were unique.

The busiest halls housed the Antique & Vintage jewels, jewelry from Hong Kong and China manufacturers, the CORE section and wedding jewelry section. Several of the designer areas and silver jewelry sections also attracted buyers. The Thailand and Japan pavilions were the largest exhibiting groups outside of those from Hong Kong and China and they remained busy.

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Luxury Jewels Were In Abundance at the September Hong Kong Fair

September 16, 2018, 2:33 pm

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A buyer inspects a diamond paved necklace from Studio Reves. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Despite much of the focus being placed on large manufacturers and retailers, luxury jewels are a significant part of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Most of the contemporary luxury jewelers and manufacturers (outside of Hong Kong and China manufacturers who have their own pavilions) are located next to each other in the Fine Design Pavilion and the International Premiere Pavilion.

Located at the Grand Hall of the Hong Kong Convention & Exposition Centre, the Fine Design Pavilion showcases high jewelry from more than 70 internationally known jewelers and dealers of estate jewels and watches. The high-ceiling and luxurious environment of the Grand Hall is an appropriate setting for these designers who feature rare diamonds, gemstones and pearls in their limited-edition creations.

A conch pearl necklace by Saboo. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Jewelry brand, Saboo, is one of the regular exhibitors in this pavilion. Chand Bihari Saboo had some time to talk since several appointments were cancelled due to buyers trying to leave Hong Kong before Super Typhoon Mangkhut arrived. The Hong Kong-based company specializes in one-of-a-kind and limited edition jewels, made with exceptional diamond and colored gems. Many items are sold to Middle East royalty. The Hong Kong-based company started as a gem manufacturer so it is skilled at choosing stones.

Saboo showed me a necklace and ring featuring conch pearls of different sizes and colors, and a flexible bracelet paved in rubies and diamonds.

A ruby and diamond bracelet by Saboo. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Despite the impending doom that the typhoon was going to bring there were still eager buyers. In the International Premier Pavilion, which houses about 60 luxury jewelry manufacturing brands, a salesperson at Studio Reves, a Mumbai based diamond jewelry manufacturer and DTC sightholder, was showing a large, well-constructed, flexible necklace paved with rose-cut diamonds.

As we were talking a woman walked up and asked its cost, felt it, tried it on and soon they began negotiating a sale.

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2018 JNA Awards: Letitia Chow’s Influence And Leadership Saves the Day

September 23, 2018, 4:39 am

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Over the years whenever I tell people I was attending the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, the response was almost always the same. “Say hello to Letitia for me.”

2018 JNA Awards ceremony. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The Letitia in question is Letitia Chow, director of Business Development, Jewellery Group of UBM Asia. She also holds the title of Jewellery Group director, Publishing Group at UBM Asia.

A brief overview of her career goes like this: In 1983 Chow founded Jewellery News Asia magazine in partnership with veteran journalist, publisher and public relations consultant, Peter Brindisi. It grew to become the largest and most influential jewelry industry magazine in Asia. The magazine was purchased by UBM Asia and thus started her rise in the corporate structure of the trade fair company.

Letitia Chow, UBM Asia director of Business Development - Jewelry Group, and Wendy Pang, senior marketing manager - Jewellery Fair, during the 2011 Seotember Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

In the jewelry industry, particularly in Asia, the large jewelry, diamond and colored gem manufacturers, the largest mining companies and the largest jewelry retailers share much of the power. While Chow isn’t the most powerful presence, her influence ranges from the largest companies to those who work on the front lines. All of this influence was needed at this year’s JNA Awards ceremony, another jewelry industry endeavor at least co-founded by Chow.

On September 16, Super Typhoon Mangkhut barreled through Hong Kong. The Hong Kong Observatory issued the Hurricane Signal No. 10, which is the highest level of tropical cyclone warning signals in Hong Kong, for 10 hours, making it a storm of historic proportions. It caused the postponement of the JNA Awards to the following day. When I saw pictures and video of the damage to the Intercontinental Hong Kong hotel, where the event is held, I thought the awards show would surely be cancelled.

The Intercontinental Hong Kong hotel during Super Typhoon Mangkhut in a photo passed around social media.

The lobby of the Intercontinental Hong Kong the following night for the JNA Awards.

I was wrong and it was all because of Chow, her dedicated staff and the staff at the Intercontinental Hong Kong.

Not only were they battling a super typhoon and the damage it did to the hotel, but more than half of the invited guests had left prior to the storm, leaving the possibility of a half-filled venue. First, the hotel lobby and the large events room where the awards were presented showed no signs of damage. Second, the call went out and the industry responded as people came streaming into the main hall moments before the program started. The program itself went off without a hitch.

Over the years Chow always had a calm almost Zen-like demeanor despite the chaos that naturally ensues during a live trade fair and awards program. However, this year, during her opening remarks, her voice broke at least twice when she thanked her staff and those who came to the event in the last minute.

The main reason the people came, the staff did the work and show went on is the result of the Chow’s leadership and the good will she accumulated over the years.

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Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair Excelled

September 23, 2018, 6:34 am

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With all the talk of the September Hong Kong Jewelry & Gem Fair, there was another show quietly being held at the AsiaWorld-Expo, sharing space with the materials portion of the better known September Hong Kong fair.

Buyers entering Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – September

Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair – September (9FJ), one of the industry’s most inspiring and exciting events, was held September 12 – 15, which means the fair ended one day before Super Typhoon Mangkhut touched down on Hong Kong.

The four-day fair hosted about 350 exhibitors and drew more than 9,000 local and overseas buyers. It occupied Hall 2 and the Concourse of AWE, and as an annual show, it has gained traction as a hub of opportunity for fashion jewelry and accessories manufacturers, wholesalers, importers, retailers, designers and buyers.

The fair specializes in low-cost design-oriented jewelry made with non-precious materials. Many of the larger pieces would be called costume jewelry in the U.S., but there were also more petite designs. Since design is such a focus of the show, no exhibitors would allow me to take photographs of their pieces since stealing designs is a concern. The fair also materials used to make fashion-oriented jewelry.

The Designer Atelier, a special zone featured a select group of independent designers from Hong Kong, debuted at this year’s fair. Another new attraction was the Fashion Accessories zone, which provided the latest creations of manufacturers and designers who are bringing their distinctive elements to the show, from beaded clutches and purses to colorful shawls and stoles.

A highlight of the show was the Stainless Steel Jewellery Pavilion, where exhibitors presented an array of stainless steel jewelry designed to complete a fashion-forward, urban-themed look. Versatile and affordable, stainless steel jewelry remains one of the most popular goods at this fair.

Five group pavilions represented mainland China, India, Korea, the Philippines and the Taiwan region were also among the show’s top draws.

A tradition of the annual fair was the Editor’s Choice section, which provided a peak at the design trends for Spring/Summer. This year, the show turned the spotlight on three of the hottest materials that will be prevalent in the upcoming seasons: Beads, metals and semi-precious stones.

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2018 JNA Awards Recognizes Jewelry Industry Leaders

September 23, 2018, 7:14 am

≫ Next: Spirits Remained High At Hong Kong Jewelry Fair despite Destruction Caused By Super Typhoon Mangkhut

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The seventh annual JNA Awards, one of the most prestigious award programs in the international jewelry and gemstone industry, was a success under extremely stressful circumstances. The glittering gala event, which honored industry forerunners and groundbreakers, was held during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Hong Kong on September 17.

The winners, judges, organizers and sponsors of the 2018 JNA Awards

Super Typhoon Mangkhut came crashing into Hong Kong September 16 causing the event to be held the following day. You can read more about the herculean effort it took to stage the event by following this link. However, this story is about the winners and awards ceremony.

A total of 44 honorees or finalists across 12 award categories that made exceptional contributions to the industry were acknowledged at the awards ceremony. Out of the 44 finalists, 15 recipients were announced in a ceremony witnessed by prominent industry leaders and influencers.

Organized by UBM Asia, the JNA Awards is dedicated to the promotion and enhancement of excellence, leadership, innovation and best business practices in the jewelry and gemstone community.

Prida Tiasuwan, Chairman of Pranda Jewelry Public Co Ltd – PRANDA Group, received the Lifetime Achievement Award, the highest accolade conferred by the JNA Awards. Prida is well-known for his tireless effort in bringing Thailand-made jewelry to the forefront of the global market. His bold vision and revolutionary ideas not only contributed to the success of PRANDA Group, but also benefited the jewelry industry as a whole.

The 15 Award Recipients across 12 categories are as follows:

1. Brand of the Year – Retail
Luk Fook Holdings (International) Limited – Hong Kong

2. eSupplier of the Year
Kiran Gems Private Limited – India

3. Industry Innovation of the Year

3a. Industry Innovation of the Year – Business Model
Shenzhen MOVER Jewellery Co Ltd – China

3b. Industry Innovation of the Year – Diamond Testing Technology
IIDGR (UK) Ltd – United Kingdom

3c. Industry Innovation of the Year – Manufacturing Process
PANDORA Production Co Ltd - Thailand

4. Manufacturer of the Year – Cutting & Polishing
Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd – Hong Kong

5. Manufacturer of the Year – Jewellery
Kuwayama Corporation – Japan

6. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – ASEAN, Japan & Korea
Poh Kong Jewellers – Malaysia

7. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – Greater China
Shenzhen Sunfeel Jewelry Co Ltd – China

8. Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – India
KGK Diajewels Private Limited – India

9. Retailer of the Year (500 outlets and below)
PT Central Mega Kencana – Indonesia

10. Retailer of the Year (501 outlets and above)
HIERSUN - China

11. Sustainability Initiative of the Year
Jewelmer (KARAMAR CORPORATION) – Philippines

12. Young Entrepreneur of the Year (Age 40 and below)
XU Xiao, Zbird / Shanghai Wisdom Jewelry Trading Co Ltd – China
Zulu GHEVRIYA, Prism Group – Hong Kong

“Our industry is facing some challenging times, but we should not be discouraged. Instead, this is the time to be innovative. This is the time to seek business opportunities with a different light and angle, and form alliances and collaborations to create win-win situations,” said Letitia Chow, Chairperson of the JNA Awards, Founder of JNA, and Director of Business Development – Jewellery Group at UBM Asia. “Our Honoree companies and individuals embrace this mindset to drive their businesses forward.”

Headline Partners for the JNA Awards were Chow Tai Fook, Shanghai Diamond Exchange and Bahrain Institute for Pearls and Gemstones.

Honored Partners were KGK Group, Guangdong Gems & Jade Exchange and Guangdong Land Holdings Limited.

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Spirits Remained High At Hong Kong Jewelry Fair despite Destruction Caused By Super Typhoon Mangkhut

September 23, 2018, 2:35 pm

≫ Next: Macau To Enter Rough Trading Through New Diamond and Gem Exchange

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It’s impossible to discuss the 2018 September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair without mentioning Super Typhoon Mangkhut. It landed in Hong Kong on September 16, as a Signal No. 10, the highest level of tropical cyclone warning signals in Hong Kong (equal to a Category 5 hurricane), for 10 hours, making it one of the strongest storms in the city’s history.

Storm damage just outside the Hong Kong convention
center

It tore through high rises, toppled construction equipment and destroyed some less fortified buildings. It toppled trees, stopped all public transportation and caused severe flooding along coastal areas. Some of the photos and videos being distributed among those of us stranded in hotels or at home were quite shocking.

The storm understandably caused the full-day closure of the Hong Kong fair at both the AsiaWorld-Expo by the airport, for the last day of the materials portion of the fair, and at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre in the center of the city, during the third day of the finished jewelry portion of the show. If that’s not enough the storm forced the rescheduling of the 2018 JNA Awards gala dinner, which was held the following night.

One of the walkways to the convention center

Miraculously the convention center showed no sign of damage, despite being on the water’s edge. Despite the fewer people, everything appeared normal at the show, which is testament to the focus and resiliency and focus of the staff at UBM Asia, which owns and operates the fair, the convention center staff and the residents of Hong Kong.

Between the one day closure and buyers leaving before the storm arrived, there was definitely a loss of business but for the most part everyone was happy. I spoke with several gem dealers at the JNA Awards gala dinner and all were satisfied with the business they did during the days the show was open.

One of many damaged buildings in the city

Earlier in the day, there were still a good number of buyers walking the halls of the Hong Kong convention center. I spoke with several exhibitors in the Fine Designer Pavilion and they were in good spirits sharing typhoon stories while showing their jewels to whatever buyers remained. Like the gem dealers, they said business was disrupted for the remainder of the fair but prior to the storm, sales were strong.

Many of the dealers in this area, which specializes in new and second-market high jewelry, have been exhibiting at the September Hong Kong fair for years. I asked one of the veteran dealers why he continues to attend. He simply replied: “I make money.”

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Macau To Enter Rough Trading Through New Diamond and Gem Exchange

September 23, 2018, 4:22 pm

≫ Next: Ariana Grande Sparkles In Chopard Jewels On Jimmy Fallon Show For Christmas

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Macau is setting up an international trading center for diamonds and rough gems to leverage its relations with Portuguese-speaking diamond producers and take advantage of the rapid development and vast potential of China’s jewelry market.

The Macau China Diamond & Gem Exchange announcement

To help meet this goal, the recently formed Macau China Diamond & Gem Exchange (MDGE) used the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair to announce that it signed an agreement with the Shanghai Diamond Exchange (SDE) and the Industrial and Commercial Bank of China (ICBC Macau) to promote the city as a global diamond and gem trading center.

The September 13 announcement was held at the AsiaWorld-Expo convention facility near Hong Kong’s international airport.

“The rapid development and vast potential of China’s jewelry market has coincided with the evolving plans of the Guangdong-Hong Kong-Macau Greater Bay Area creating an opportunity for diamond and gem trading in Macau,” MDGE said in a statement. “With available financing, low and simple taxation as well as an attractive free trade policy, Macau also has its own commercial and financial advantages to enter the global diamond industry. Building upon China’s “One Country, Two Systems” policy, and the strong support of Macau’s political leaders and business community.”

The organization added, “Through the strategic partnership between MDGE and SDE, the integration of SDE’s policy and management expertise within MDGE will accelerate progress to build upon Macau’s position as an international free trade port and the preferential policies of the Guangdong – Hong Kong – Macau Great Bay Area. Further enhancing this arrangement, ICBC will provide unique financial services to MDGE members as strategic partner of MDGE.”

The agreement allows for the training of professionals in authentication, design and transformation of jewelry. It also makes use of Macau’s position as a world tourism and leisure center and a platform of services between China and Portuguese-speaking countries.

In addition, the agreement will allow MDGE to actively develop concentrated rough-diamond trading, which will drive rough diamonds into the Shanghai Diamond Exchange and further promote the Chinese industry.

Founded in 2000, the Shanghai Diamond Exchange is the only diamond import and export market in the interior of China and the fifth largest diamond trading center in the world.

China imports precious and semi-precious stones from Angola, Brazil and Mozambique.

The demand for diamonds in the wedding market in Macau and in the interior of China has grown significantly as a result of the rapid growth of the Chinese economy.

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Ariana Grande Sparkles In Chopard Jewels On Jimmy Fallon Show For Christmas

December 24, 2018, 11:32 am

≫ Next: Three New Cartier Watches For 2019

≪ Previous: Macau To Enter Rough Trading Through New Diamond and Gem Exchange

I’ve never seen a performance by Ariana Grande and now I understand the hype. Wearing an oversized red Christmas sweater with a snowflake motif and dripping in Chopard diamond jewels, she spread Christmas cheer with the debut performance of her new song, Imagine, on the “Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon.”

Backed by “The Roots,” the singer and band were tight throughout the song highlighted by complex rhythms and increased emotional tension that finished with virtuosic flair as the singer hit notes so high they sounded like whistles.

Grande wore a necklace featuring a 5.01-carat heart-shaped brilliant-cut diamond and 10.31 carats of diamonds set in 18k white gold. Stud earrings centered with a 6.90-carat heart-shaped brilliant-cut diamond and a 6.69-carat heart-shaped brilliant-cut diamond and more diamonds set in 18k white gold, both from the “Haute Joaillerie Collection.” She matched this with a ring from the “L’Heure Du Diamant Collection” that contains 6.06-carats of diamonds set in 18k white gold; and a ring from the “Precious Chopard Collection” featuring 5.79-carats of rubies with diamonds set in 18k white gold.

There are lots of ways to spread holiday cheer, this year I chose this remarkable performance to do it. Happy Holidays.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

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Three New Cartier Watches For 2019

January 2, 2019, 11:56 am

≫ Next: Celebrate The Year Of The Pig In Style With These Six Watches

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By Tiziana Agnati
Accredited journalist and influencer specializing in luxury jewelry

The first big luxury watch trade fair of the year, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), will be held January 14 – 17 in Geneva and Cartier as always will be the center of attention. The French luxury brand has provided a preview of limited edition watches that will be revealed at the SIHH. They will be available to the public later this year.

These three timepieces fuse the aesthetic of a past era with the precision of modern technology appearing in gorgeous tones of burgundy, emerald and gold. These watches speak to a modern trend for wearing timepieces so beautiful they almost outclass jewelry, allowing women to streamline their accessories day and night with one dramatic piece.

Cartier Libre

Cartier Libre is at the forefront of this trend, with watches that fuse femininity with glittering extravagance, playing with the Maison’s many signature forms and aesthetics. First up is the Tank Chinoise Red Watch, which is known for its rectangular face, rows of precious stones, and its historical importance. Designed in 1921, its unusual shape has become iconic for nearly a century, and now it has been imbued with particularly strong symbolism in China: red. The dial is bordered by two lintels of rubies, while a line of diamonds adorns the edges. The contrast between the two stones emphasizes the original Chinese temples architectural reference of the watch.

Cartier Diagonale

Next up is the Diagonale, which pays homage to Cartier’s heritage of disrupting the classics with unusual designs that delight the eye. With a minuscule dial distinctively stamped with Cartier’s watchmaking codes, this piece features an arresting crisscross design, highlighted by two diagonal rows of brilliant-cut diamonds.

Cartier Baignoire Allongée

Finally, there is the Baignoire Allongée, which comes in celadon or black, the most ornate of the trio. This watch is gloriously creative and a spectacle in a timepiece. It is studded with emeralds and Paraiba tourmalines, black spinels, yellow sapphires or diamonds, threatening to outdo even the most dramatic of gowns. In moonlight or by candlelight each gemstone becomes a minuscule speck of color, while the dial is paved with diamonds that sparkle at night. It is an elegant timepiece that can be handed down for generations.

Cartier is a brand that disrupts and endures. This means owning a Cartier watch is like having a piece of art on your wrist.

Tiziana Agnati is a journalist and influencer specializing in luxury jewelry with digital expertise. Learn more about her on her Linkedin profile where she communicates regularly with 100,000 followers.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

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Celebrate The Year Of The Pig In Style With These Six Watches

February 6, 2019, 6:11 am

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≪ Previous: Three New Cartier Watches For 2019

By Tiziana Agnati
Accredited journalist and influencer specializing in luxury jewelry

Usher in the Lunar New Year with these six watches in red. In Chinese culture, red is considered auspicious, which is why the color is so popular every Chinese New Year, adorning everything, from the lanterns that you hang in the patio to the clothes that you wear.

With the festive season being celebrated right now, look toward these six timepieces in this striking hue in order to attract more of that positive energy.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Celestial
If you fancy having the entire constellation on your wrist, this Rendez-Vous delivers an irresistible feminine expression of it. Dressed up in red with the different constellations enameled on the dial, the pink gold case also matches a bezel set with pink sapphires.

Breguet Marie-Antoinette “Dentelle”
The Dentelle watch evokes elegance with its distinctive lacework set with 89 diamonds around the 18K white gold case. A red ruby weighting about 1.3 carat and a red satin strap add fire to an otherwise icy mien that includes a white mother-of-pearl dial.

Franck Muller Watchland SA Long Island Peony
Known as the flower of riches and honour, the peony comes in a variety of soft pastel colours. Its loveliness - 8 of them in fact - now decorates the svelte rectangular profile of the Long Island with a rose gold case and a diamond-set bezel.

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
The timeless Art Deco shape of the Tank get an uplift with a pink gold case, diamond-set bars on either side of the dial, the 8971 MC movement and, of course, a chic red leather strap.

TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 01 Manchester United
This special edition chronograph celebrates TAG Heuer’s third season as Manchester United’s Official Timekeeper. Naturally the club’s color stands out from the logo positioned prominently at ‘9’ and the flange of the 60-second scale, to the hour, minute and chronograph central second hands. Paired with a perforated rubber strap in, what else, red.

GRAHAM Chronofighter Oversize Superlight Carbon
The red of the rubber strap decorated with Clous de Paris pattern makes an eye-catching contrast against the shiny black of the carbon composite case, a material that makes the watch extremely light despite its large 47 mm diameter. Red also appears on the central seconds hand and chronograph counters’ hands as well as the “Superlight Carbon” print.

Tiziana Agnati is a journalist and influencer specializing in luxury jewelry with digital expertise. Learn more about her on her Linkedin profile where she communicates regularly with 100,000 followers.

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Bradley Cooper to Wear Unique IWC Watch at Oscars Being Auctioned for Charity by Sotheby’s

February 22, 2019, 8:48 am

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Bradley Cooper in an IWC advertisement.Photo credit: IWC

IWC Ambassador Bradley Cooper will wear a unique IWC Big Pilot’s Watch to the Oscars ceremony on Sunday with a special engraving. The watch is being offered by Sotheby’s in an exclusive online auction with all proceeds going to benefit the Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Youth Foundation. Bidding opened $16,000 Friday and will run till March 4.

A personal letter from Cooper to the new owner will accompany the watch. IWC is donating all proceeds from the sale to the Antoine de Saint-Exupéry Youth Foundation with all funds going to "Arrimage," a charitable organization that focuses on teaching visually impaired children how to read drawings using their sense of touch.

Big Pilot’s Watch single piece with a special engraving (Ref. IW500923), Bidding for the watch will open at $16,000.Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s and IWC

The IWC watch Cooper will be wearing at The Oscars is a Big Pilot’s Watch single piece with a special engraving (Ref. IW500923). The timepiece features a midnight blue dial and is housed in a case made of 18k 5N gold. It is powered by the IWC-manufactured 51111-caliber movement. On the caseback there is an engraving of an iconic quote from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry‘s The Little Prince: “It is only with the heart that one can see rightly."

A triple Oscar-nominee in 2019, Cooper co-wrote, directed, produced and starred in A Star is Born. The film has received eight Oscar nominations: “Best Actor in a Leading Role,” “Best Actress in a Leading Role.” “Best Picture,” “Best Adapted Screenplay,” “Best Actor in a Supporting Role,” “Best Original Song,” “Best Cinematography” and “Best Sound Mixing.” He previously earned Oscar nominations for his performances in Silver Linings Playbook, American Hustle and American Sniper. Bradley Cooper became a brand ambassador for IWC in 2018.

The unique IWC Pilot's Watch with special engraving: “It is only with the heart that one can see rightly." Courtesy of Sotheby’s and IWC

“The support of disabled children and adolescents is one of the cornerstones of our CSR effort,” said Christoph Grainger-Herr, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen.

“IWC Schaffhausen’s master watch-makers have produced a complex and beautifully crafted symbol of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s pioneering spirit. After witnessing dreams come true on the stage of the Oscars this Sunday, it will be a privilege for us to offer this one-of-a-kind watch in our upcoming sale and to support the important work of the foundation,” added Mikael Wallhagen, head of the Watch Division for Sotheby’s in Geneva.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet, the Forbes website and on Instagram @JewelryNewsNetwork

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June Hong Kong Jewelry Fair Opens to Big Crowds

June 19, 2019, 10:51 pm

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Buyers crowd one of the registration areas at the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

The June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair opened its doors Thursday and buyers have come in large numbers to view products and services from more than 1,900 exhibitors from 40 countries and regions of the world.

Looking at the crowds of people at several registration desks it hard to believe that this is the smaller of the two trade fairs in Hong Kong owned and operated by London-based Informa Markets, a tradeshow and publications company that acquired UBM Asia in 2018. But it is. The main difference is that this show is held in one facility while the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair is so large that it is held at two locations.

Occupying 70,000 square meters of exhibition space at the Hong Kong Convention & Exposition Centre, the fair is divided into 21 theme and 18 group pavilions for easier navigation. New this year are two thematic zones – Technology and Lab-Grown Diamonds – and the Australia Pavilion under the national and group pavilions category.

“The June fair occupies a unique position in the industry,” says Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa Markets. “It literally brings the jewellery world under one roof, and it is perfectly timed for wholesalers, retailers and distributors who are building up their seasonal essentials.”

Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa Markets, added, “This show brings together the jewelry and gemstone industry in its entire breadth and depth, making it the ideal sourcing destination for wholesalers, retailers and distributors.”

This includes jewelry technology and equipment providers, diamond and gemstone dealers, a complete assortment of fine jewelry and collectible high jewelry.

The June Fair’s signature programming will include three seminars organised by the Colombian Association of Emerald Exporters, The Gemmological Association of Hong Kong and the Japan Pearl Promotion Society, which will highlight developments in the colored gemstone and pearl sectors.

Invitation-only events are being held on the fair’s sidelines, including a Media Gathering, where the winners of the JNA Jewellery Design Competition 2018/19 were announced and the JNA Awards revealed this year’s finalists across 11 categories.

This is the 32nd year for the June fair and it has become an important part of the international annual tradeshow calendar. The four-day event will run till June 23.

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U.S.-China Trade War is the Talk of the June Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

June 20, 2019, 12:12 am

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Hong Kong industry leaders talk about the issues at the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

In September the Hong Kong Jewelry & Gem Fair was closed for a day for the first time in its long history by a typhoon. For the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, two other storms are brewing and both are man-made. The first is the threat by President Donald Trump to slap a 25% tariff on all goods exported from China to the U.S. The second is perhaps the largest protests in the history of Hong Kong, which may continue.

During the opening day press conference, leaders of the trade organizations from Hong Kong spent a great deal of time talking about the first issue while not mentioning the second at all.

Lawrence Ma, president of the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, says U.S.-China trade tensions are putting pressure on the world economy.

“Trade uncertainty is what we don’t like,” he said Thursday. “If they agree to something everything would change in a moment. But I think we have to live with this uncertainty for the next few months.”

Sze Ho Yin, president of the Hong Pearl Association said the increased infrastructure improvements between Hong Kong and China have made it easy for Hong Kong wholesalers and retailers to do business with those from the mainland.

“About 40% of our buyers are from Mainland China because it is very convenient for buyers from China to come to Hong Kong,” he said. “They are pretty much supporting the jewelry industry (in Hong Kong). It’s very convenient to sell directly to China. Because of this the trade war between the U.S. and China hasn’t had a dramatic effect.”

Ken Lo, chairman of the Hong Kong Jade & Jewellery Manufacturers, says Hong Kong’s strength as a trading center will mitigate much of the detrimental impact of a trade war.

“Hong Kong is the number one city in the world in terms of ease when it comes to setting up a business,” he said. “And it has an advantage because of its proximity to China and its ease of trade between the two markets. I think because of this Hong Kong will remain a very important trading center for the entire world.”

The leaders also talked about issues important for the jewelry and gem industry in Hong Kong. For example, Ma spoke about some of the myriad of issues the diamond industry is facing. They include the difficulty of financing for much of the diamond trade, the effect of lab-grown diamonds and the steady decline of sales among Hong Kong retailers.

He said diamond imports in Hong Kong are down 2.8% for the first three months of the year compared to last year. Meanwhile, exports are up by 9.1% for the same period. On the retail level, there are more Chinese tourists visiting Hong Kong but they are spending less, he said.

“The good news is that there are more Chinese coming,” he said. “The bad news is spending has come down significantly. Overall, it’s a good trend.”

Lo spent much of his presentation talking about how technology is changing the jewelry industry. The items he covered included:

* Lab-grown diamonds and how it has taken up some jewelry industry sales.

* CAD-CAM technology is speeding up the process from design to finished jewels and is a catalyst when in terms of allowing retail customers the ability to design their own jewels.

* The decline of distributors because manufacturers are using the Internet and social media to go directly to retailers and consumers.

Yin said the Hong Kong pearl industry is working with China to develop a freshwater pearl industry to replace the Akoya pearl.

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Winners Announced at Inaugural 'JNA Jewellery Design Competition'

June 20, 2019, 10:37 am

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Some of the finalists for the JNA Jewellery Design Competition

The winners of a new competition dedicated to design were announced Thursday during the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair.

The name of the awards program is the JNA Jewellery Design Competition for 2018/19. The winners were named at a press event during the fair’s opening day attended by officials representing Informa Markets and JNA magazine, and corporate sponsors, Crossfor Co Ltd, Platinum Guild International (PGI) and the Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong (TPAHK). The competition celebrates artistry, innovation and excellence in jewelry design and production.

Organizers and sponsors of the JNA Jewellery Design Competition during the announcement of the winners at the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

The winners of the JNA Jewellery Design Competition 2018/19 are as follows:

* Dancing Stone Category – New Fashion Tech - “Heptagram” by Mami Ochiai of Japan

* Platinum Category – Platinum Attitude - “Star Lingers” by Liang Fan of China

* Tahitian Pearl Category – Asymmetric Perfection - “The Leonidas Man” set by Alessio Boschi of Italy

The winners will be featured at an awards presentation during at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Each winner will also receive a cash prize of $2,000, and have their creations showcased at the June and September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fairs.

The Leonidas Man by Alessio Boschi, one of the winners of the JNA Jewellery Design Competition

The competition’s judging panel was led by jewelry designer Fei Liu, who served as chair. He was joined by jewelry designer Robert Tateossian, visual artist Bradley Theodore, and publisher and editor-in-chief of the JNA group, Christie Dang. The three category judges were Hidetaka Dobashi, founder and CEO of Crossfor, Suzanne Wong, senior product manager of PGI, and Ida Wong, general manager of TPAHK.

The winners were selected out of 15 finalists across three categories, and evaluated against the criteria set by the organizers as well as the entries’ adherence to the respective themes. Of the 15 finalists, five were from China; three were from Taiwan; with the rest from Bulgaria, Egypt, Iran, Italy, Japan, Malaysia and the U.S.

The competition drew 2,588 entries from jewelry designers and students from 39 countries and regions.

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Finalists for the 2019 JNA Awards Unveiled

June 21, 2019, 4:06 pm

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The press conference announcing the 2019 JNA Awards finalists

In just a few years the JNA Awards has grown to become one of the top awards programs in the jewelry industry. The shortlist of the 2019 finalists, known as honorees, across 11 categories for its eighth edition were unveiled during a press event Thursday during the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. This year the number of honorees has expanded to reflect the increased number of applicants and their diversity.

Organised by Informa Markets, the JNA Awards recognizes and celebrates excellence and innovation in the industry. Since its inception in 2012, the awards has been dedicated to sharing its core values with the trade, inspiring the gemstone and jewelry industry to thrive and advance as a whole by sharing best business practices and encouraging high standards. This year, the JNA Awards received nearly 100 entries from more than 60 companies and individuals.

(From left) Abhishek Parekh of KGK Group; Peter Suen of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group; Letitia Chow of Informa Markets; David Bondi of Informa Markets; Kenneth Scarratt of DANAT; Liu Zheng of Guangdong Land Holdings

“Of the 39 Honoree companies that were shortlisted, almost half of them are first-time entrants, indicating a growing interest among quality companies who recognize the importance of this platform,” said Letitia Chow, chairperson and founder of the JNA Awards, and director of Business Development -- Jewellery Group at Informa Markets. “We have also received a record number of entries from Thailand, second in ranking together with India and Hong Kong, reflecting the importance of this market which has been traditionally modest about its accomplishment."

The 2019 independent judging panel consists of industry experts: James Courage, former CEO of Platinum Guild International and former Chairman of the Responsible Jewellery Council; Albert Cheng, former managing director of World Gold Council, Far East; Lin Qiang, president and managing director of the Shanghai Diamond Exchange; Nirupa Bhatt, managing director of the Gemological Institute of America India and Middle East; Yasukazu Suwa, chairman of Suwa & Son, Inc.; and Mark Lee, research director of Asia Pacific Institute for Strategy.

The judges for the 2019 JNA Awards. (clockwise from top left): James Courage, Albert Cheng, Lin Qiang, Mark Lee, Yasukazu Suwa and Nirupa Bhatt

Several of the judges attended the announcement and noted that the two categories that saw the biggest growth were for young jewelry business owners and for technology achievements in the jewelry industry.

“The quality of this year's entries, along with its diversity in terms of size, type and geography, are worth noting. Despite facing challenges, the industry -- through these entries -- showed its focus and determination when it comes to investing in innovation, operating systems and consumer research," Courage said.

Cheng added, "Just like in the last seven years, Industry Innovation of the Year proved to be the most popular category. The Young Entrepreneur Honourees -- whose credentials, professionalism and innovativeness reflect on their outstanding businesses -- are equally impressive."

Qiang said, “It is surprising and inspiring to know that nearly 100 entries were received -- more than half of which are from first-time entrants. The influence and credibility of the JNA Awards is beyond question. It will be a rewarding journey for everyone involved.”

"Having worked with the JNA Awards since 2013, I noticed that the judging process grows more difficult as the entries reach new heights and push the boundaries of excellence year after year," Bhatt noted.”

Suwa noted, "Entrants to the JNA Awards vary from very big corporations to small ones. I kept in mind to judge them based on their mission and the long-term good they have been doing for people, regardless of the company's size."

Lee added, "The JNA Awards continues to strengthen its role as an excellent platform to showcase the industry's progress and success. The entries, particularly in the areas of innovation and marketing, are truly impressive."

The 2019 honorees are as follows:

Brand of the Year – Retail

Mokingran Jewelry Group Co Ltd., China

Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Company (PNJ), Vietnam

Shenzhen Sunfeel Jewelry Co Ltd., China

eSupplier of the Year

BOJEM Jewelry, China

De Beers Group Institute of Diamonds, United Kingdom

Gübelin Gem LabSwitzerl, and

Kapu Gems, India

Shanghai Wisdom Jewelry Trading Co. Ltd., China

Industry Innovation of the Year

Diamond Identification Diamond Services, Hong Kong

Jewellery Manufacturing Technology

3D Kaiente Jewellery Co. Ltd., China

Christy Gem, Thailand

H.K. Designs, India

K.S. Jewelry International Co. Ltd., Thailand

Marketing and Marketing Services

Picup Media, Hong Kong

Shenzhen MOVER Culture Co. Ltd., China

Production Technology

China Stone Ltd., Thailand

Pino Aliprandini (HK) Ltd., Hong Kong

Sahajanand Technologies Private Limited, India

Shenzhen Future Wisdom Jewelry Co. Ltd., China

Shared Services

Kongfook Jewelry (Shenzhen) Co. Ltd., China

Manufacturer of the Year – Cutting & Polishing

China Stone Ltd., Thailand

KGK DV LLC, Russia

Vaibhav Global Limited, India

Manufacturer of the Year – Jewellery

Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd., Hong Kong

Gold Star Jewellery Pvt. Ltd., India

MKS JEWELRY INTERNATIONAL CO. LTD., Thailand

ShangJinPin Jewellery (Shenzhen) Limited Corporation, China

Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – China

Continental Jewellery (MFG) Limited, Hong Kong

DECENT Gold Group Co. Ltd., China

Shanghai Kimberlite Diamond Group Ltd. Co., China

Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – Countries/Regions outside of India and China

Frank & co. Jewellery, Indonesia

YLG Bullion International Co. Ltd., Thailand

Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – India

H.K. Designs, India

KASHI JEWELLERS, India

NAROLA GEMS, India

Retailer of the Year

Luk Fook Holdings (International) Limited, Hong Kong

Motisons Jewellers Ltd., India

Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Company (PNJ), Vietnam

Poh Kong Jewellers Sdn Bhd, Malaysia

Sustainability Initiative of the Year

Continental Jewellery (MFG) Limited, Hong Kong

Shenzhen Xingguangda Jewelry Industrial Co. Ltd., China

Young Entrepreneur of the Year (age 40 and below)

Abhay Chordia, ASHOK JEWELS, India

Angelina Lau, SK Jewellery Group Ltd., Singapore

Nancy Wong, Luk Fook Holdings (International) Limited, Hong Kong

William Chu, Picup Media, Hong Kong

Raymond Chen, Shenzhen MOVER Culture Co. Ltd., China

The JNA Award Winners will be announced at a gala dinner during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair,

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September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Will Be Held As Usual

August 22, 2019, 11:12 am

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The registration area at the 2018 September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Will Hong Kong protests keep the crowds away this year

Despite the ongoing protests in Hong Kong, officials representing Informa Markets, the owner and organizer of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, say the show will be held during its usual dates and times, September 16 – 22.

Considered one of the largest jewelry fair’s in the world, the event is held in two venues with staggered dates: September 16 - 20 at the AsiaWorld-Expo for jewelry making materials and machinery and September 18 - 22 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre for finished jewelry.

In a statement, David Bondi, Informa Markets senior VO – Asia, said the company is adopting a series of contingency measures that he says will “ensure a seamless flow of events throughout the show.”

“Our priority is to deliver the best September Fair ever, and the 2019 edition of the world’s best jewelry marketplace is shaping up to be a record-breaking one in terms of top-class exhibitors, collection launches and rich programming,” Bondi said.

Bondi claims that as of August 9, “99 percent of the September Fair’s more than 3,700 exhibitors from around the globe have confirmed their participation.” This includes the few exhibitors I spoke with.

However, according to a recent report, three trade associations (The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, Antwerp World Diamond Centre and Israel Diamond Institute) have asked Informa Markets to delay the show until the situation stabilizes.

Bondi also said that visitor pre-registration is “moving forward,” with visitor promotion campaigns in full swing. “We anticipate minimal impact on visitor turnout,” he said. “It remains to be seen how small that impact would be given today’s complex situation.”

The protests began as peaceful demonstrations in March in opposition over plans that would have allowed extradition from Hong Kong to mainland China. The protests escalated to the point where the bill was declared to be “suspended” but that didn’t stop the protesters, who said they want the proposal withdrawn. The demands of the protesters have also expanded. The response by the Hong Kong police force began turning violent in early June. Vigilante groups, seemingly loyal to the government, also attacked protesters. In response, the protesters turned to sporadic violence. Bondi noted that the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, a smaller version of the September fair, was held at the Hong Kong convention center June 20 - 23 and it “went off without a hitch.”

Despite the uncertainty, Bondi insists that the fair is too large and important not to be held.

“The September Fair is the last international fair – and on a scale never seen before – on the jewelry trade show calendar,” he said. “We cannot allow recent incidents to cast a pall over the most eagerly awaited jewelry sourcing event of the year. Our task is to ensure that this show will be celebrated as it deserves to be celebrated, and that our exhibitors and buyers will get the most out of their September Fair experience.”

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JNA Awards Focuses On Women and Newcomers, Among Events At Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

September 5, 2019, 7:38 am

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From left: Cao Thi Ngoc Dung of Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Co; Wang Chun Li of Beijing Caishikou Department Store; and Hung Ming Li of Chii Lih Coral

The JNA Awards, which has grown to become one of the top awards programs in the jewelry industry, is putting a special focus on women and young entrepreneurs this year. The three lifetime achievement award honorees are all women and the finalists for other awards is dominated for the first time by new applicants.

“Of the 39 honoree companies that were shortlisted, almost half of them are first-time entrants, indicating a growing interest among quality companies who recognize the importance of this platform,” said Letitia Chow, chairperson of the JNA Awards, and director of Business Development -- Jewellery Group at Informa Markets. “We have also received a record number of entries from Thailand, second in ranking together with India and Hong Kong, reflecting the importance of this market which has been traditionally modest about its accomplishment.”

The JNA Lifetime Achievement Award is going to three women who “have each transformed the retail sector and influenced the industry in their own respective way,” according to JNA judging panel. They are: Cao Thi Ngoc Dung, founder and chairperson of Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Company (PNJ); Hung Ming Li, founder and chairman of Taiwan-based Chii Lih Coral (Chii Lih); and Wang Chun Li, managing director and general manager of Beijing Caishikou Department Store.

In addition to the special tribute to the lifetime achievement award recipients, the winners will be announced at the JNA Awards gala on September 17 at the Intercontinental Hong Kong. It is the highlight event at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, the largest jewelry trade fair in the world. It will be held September 16 – 20 at the AsiaWorld-Expo for jewelry making materials and equipment and September 18 – 22 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre for finished jewelry.

2018 JNA Awards gala

The JNA Awards is one of a number of special events, seminars, auctions and exhibitions that will be held throughout the seven-day show. They include the following:

* Alrosa Diamond Preview organized by Alrosa, the Russian mining company, September 16 – 20;

* GIA 88th and GIA Hong Kong’s 25th Anniversary Reception organized by the Gemological Institute of America, September 16;

* GIA GemFest 2019 organized by GIA, September 17;

* September Hong Kong Jewllery & Gem Fair Opening Fair Reception organized by Informa Markets, September 18;

* The unveiling of two fine jewelry collections by British luxury carmaker Bentley, which is celebrating “100 extraordinary years” in 2019, through an exclusive partnership with Heinz Mayer, a family-owned manufacturer dating back to 1599, in the Grand Foyer of the HKCEC. The limited-edition collections – “Wings” and “Everlasting” – were inspired by the car’s logo, the “Bentley Wings.” The handcrafted pieces are made of gold and platinum with diamonds, September 18 – 22;

* Jewellery Design Competition for Hong Kong Secondary School Students Award –Winning Piece Exhibition organized by the Gem & Jewellery Alumni Association, September 18 – 22;

* JNA Conference, “From Inspiration to Innovation – the Designer’s Journey to Creativity organized by Informa Markets, September 19;

* Gubelin Gem Lab Seminar organized by Gubelin Gem Lab, September 20;

* Shanghai Kimberlite Diamond Jewellery Parade & Gala Dinner organized by Shanghai Kimberlite Diamond Jewellery Co., September 20;

* GAHK 40th Anniversary Seminar organized by The Gemmological Association of Hing Kong, Gem-A and Informa Markets, September 20;

* The 68th Paspaley Pearl Auction organized by the Australian Pearl Centre, September 21 – 23.

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It was Business As Usual At The September Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

September 16, 2019, 6:38 pm

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The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair began as it has done for 36 previous years. There was the traditional lion dances for good luck, buyers were queuing to enter and overall there was nervousness and anticipation among exhibitors and the organizers of the trade fair. In fact there was more nervousness as usual due to the highly publicized violent clashes between protesters and police (including the night before). However, the political crisis in Hong Kong had little relevance during the opening day of the fair.

The number of buyers will no doubt be down from previous years as David Bondi, senior VP of Informa Markets, which organizes the fair, already said publicly. But overall the aisles were bustling with buyers doing business with vendors.

Buyers in queue waiting for the fair to open

Canceling and postponing the show was never an option, according to Bondi. For Informa Markets, the world’s largest jewelry fair was too big and too important to the worldwide jewelry industry to postpone. It’s so big it’s held at the two largest convention venues in Hong Kong with staggered dates: The AsiaWorld-Expo, September 16 - 20 for raw materials and machinery; and the Hong Kong Convention& Exhibition Centre for finished jewelry, September 18 - 22. Rescheduling such a large fair for two venues would have been a logistical nightmare.
In 2018, the fair attracted more than 54,000 buyers and 3,700 exhibitors. Few vendors have opted out. One of the reasons was that under the contract signed with vendors Informa Markets was under no obligation to provide refunds and they were sticking to this policy. Instead, the organizers invested in a number of incentives for both exhibitors and buyers. To bring more buyers to the fair, the organizers developed aggressive initiatives to make the fair more attractive.

The crowded pearl pavilion

The first was a telemarketing campaign in which Informa Markets staff personally contacted 50,000 buyers throughout the world.

The second initiative was providing 10,000 complimentary hotel room nights for buyers. Each exhibitor was asked to submit the names of three significant buyers who should be entitled to two free consecutive hotel room nights during the September Fair show dates. It proved highly popular, according to the organizers.

There were a number of softer incentives as well. For example, there was a mid-afternoon tea break and happy hour drinks as the fair ended the first day. In addition, show organizers delivered champagne and chocolate to every booth inside the fair.

Azzurra Cesari, holds up a collection of colored gems from her company, Futurgem

Perhaps even more of a factor in lower traffic among buyers is the ongoing trade war between the U.S. and China, which now includes jewelry industry products. Several exhibitors anticipate that buyers from Mainland China will be down because of this.

Vendors interviewed ranged from expressing hesitation in exhibiting to never considering canceling.

“My only thought was how to cut my costs,” said Mishael Vardi of VMK, which deals in rare fancy colored diamonds. This is primarily due to a range of issues within the diamond industry and not so much the protests in Hong Kong, noting that outside the rarest gems “It’s a buyers’ market.” Pink diamonds from the Argyle mine in Australia, which will close in 2020, and rare colored diamonds, such as blue and green remain popular.

Happy hour drinks and snacks following the show

Olivier Duran, sales manager of Avlas Diamonds, which specializes in high-quality colorless diamonds in fancy shapes, said his company was undecided. “There was some hesitation,” he said. “Thirty to 40% of our clients told us they were not coming to the show. We waited until the last moment.”

For some colored gem dealers they already do a great deal of their business in China and the rest of Asia and since they are already in the region, it made sense to exhibit as usual.

“I’m already trading in Asia,” said Charles Abouchar of Abouchar SA, a high-precision cutter of gemstones, “As long as security is okay I don’t have a problem. The buyers from the bigger companies are here.

Alexander Stufflebeam, president of Panjshir Valley, a company that deals in emeralds from Afghanistan, said he had no hesitation in coming to the fair because he does business in China and because it attracts buyers from all parts of the world.

The day ended as it has done in recent years with the annual reception of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) as buyers and exhibitors crowded the ballroom at the SkyCity Marriott Hotel.

The big test will be Wednesday, when the show opens at the Hong Kong Convention Centre for finished jewels.

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Pearls Once Again A Major Draw at the September Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

September 16, 2019, 11:26 pm

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Pearls of virtually every type, quality and price point imaginable is once again an important part of the the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. The world’s largest jewelry trade show includes a dedicated area filled with loose pearl suppliers who are presenting pearl parcels, pairs, strands and layouts at the AsiaWorld-Expo.

In addition, a number of design houses will be showcasing high and fine jewels using pearls at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, when this portion of fair opens Wednesday (but that’s another story).

The pearl pavilion at AWE is one of the largest spaces dedicated to a single product category at the fair. Loose pearl dealers from all over the world are exhibiting including suppliers and from Australia, China, France, French Polynesia, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Japan, Myanmar, Singapore, the UK and the US.

“Pearls are universally loved for their classic simplicity and timeless beauty,” said Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa Markets. “They personify refined elegance and are impressively versatile at the same time.”

According to the Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong (TPAHK) round 8mm to 10mm pearls are the hottest items under the Tahitian pearl category in the first half of the year.

“However, with the continued efforts of the association and by joining hands with leading jewelry design competition organizers in the promotion of asymmetrical shapes – drop, oval, circle and baroque pearls among others – we anticipate pearls in fancy shapes to further grow in popularity,” the association said in a statement.

Despite global economic uncertainties, the Tahitian pearl auction held in July netted encouraging results, according to TPAHK. “Top-quality pearls were in great demand but supply was inadequate. There were fewer commercial-grade pearls displayed at the auction. Thus, the average price increased by almost 48 percent when compared with the auction results in March of this year,” according to the association. “Total sales were approximately 35 percent higher than anticipated. Hong Kong and Japan continued to be the top buyers, accounting for 75 percent of sales.”

TPAHK members are presenting commercial- and high-quality pearls sourced from the recent auction at the September Fair. “The timing is ideal for the coming peak selling season,” the association noted.

The portion of the fair that includes loose pearls and other jewelry making materials at the AWE will run till September 20; while the finished portion of the jewelry fair opens at the HKCEC Wednesday and runs till September 22.

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Colored Gems and Diamonds Sparkle at September Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

September 17, 2019, 8:40 am

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A rare 2.5-carat pink diamond from VMK Diamonds

Everything seems to be the largest in the world at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair and this includes the colored gem and diamond pavilions. In addition to quantity there’s also quality on display among the hundreds of vendors. In fact, there are very few places on earth where you would see gems of that are as rare and beautiful. Handfuls of these stones may even end up on the auction block commanding millions of dollars.

An 8.37-carat brilliant-cut emerald from Panjshir Valley, a company that specializes in emeralds from Afghanistan

But in the booths these items are sold with care and discretion. The Fine Gem Pavilion, in Hall 9 of the AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE), alone has more than 70 of the world’s top suppliers of colored gemstones. Several of these dealers will also be exhibiting in the Fine Design Pavilion at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, where finished jewels are being shown beginning Wednesday. These dealers will showcase their valuable gems and diamonds set in jewels and will be joined by dealers in vintage and antique jewels as well as contemporary high jewelry artists.

A rare 20-carat natural Burmese sapphire from Caram

Meanwhile, in the Gemstone Pavilion, where colored gemstones in virtually every hue of the rainbow are showcased, occupies five Halls in AWE as well as the Hall 1 Concourse. The International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) has 40 exhibitors. All totaled, there are approximately 800 gemstone companies exhibiting and approximately 560 diamond suppliers.

A layout of well-matched colored gemstones from Paul Wild

“The September Fair has always been known for its rich and diverse selection of colored gemstones from top dealers, cutters and mine-to-market suppliers,” Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at Informa Markets, said in a statement. “This is the sourcing event for classic stones; exotic and hard-to-find gem material; and commercial-grade to mid-range quality gemstones. This fair offers a world-class experience to buyers.”

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JNA Awards Honors Accomplished Jewelry Industry Professionals

September 18, 2019, 3:56 pm

≫ Next: Hini Star Unveils Three New Diamond Cuts At September Hong Kong Fair

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The eighth annual JNA Awards was held Tuesday in the main ballroom of the Intercontinental Hong Kong. The annual event has quickly grown to become one of the most highly-acclaimed award programs in the international jewelry and gemstone industry.

Organized by Informa Markets, the awards celebrates and recognizes entrepreneurs and companies that set high standards for excellence, innovation, and outstanding business performance. A total of 45 companies and individuals were among the finalists and were feted by industry leaders in a sold out ballroom for their accomplishments in the past year. Among them, 16 were honored as recipients across 11 award categories by a highly-respected and experienced panel of judges.

Three outstanding leaders from the retail sector, Cao Thi Ngoc Dung, Hung Ming Li and Wang Chun Li were the recipients of this year’s highest accolade, the Lifetime Achievement Award.

The 16 Award Recipients across 11 categories are:

Brand of the Year – Retail
Shenzhen Sunfeel Jewelry Co Ltd – China

eSupplier of the Year
Kapu Gems – India

Industry Innovation of the Year
Industry Innovation of the Year – Diamond Identification
Diamond Services Ltd – Hong Kong

Industry Innovation of the Year – Jewellery Manufacturing Technology
Kaiente Jewellery Co Ltd – China

Industry Innovation of the Year – Production Technology
Sahajanand Technologies Pvt Ltd – India
Shenzhen Future Wisdom Jewelry Co Ltd – China

Manufacturer of the Year – Cutting & Polishing – Creativity & Innovation
China Stone Co Ltd – Thailand

Manufacturer of the Year – Jewellery
Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd – Hong Kong
Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – China
DECENT Gold Group Co Ltd – China

Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – Countries/Regions outside of China and India
FRANK & co – Indonesia

Outstanding Enterprise of the Year – India
H.K. Designs – India

Retailer of the Year
Luk Fook Holdings (International) Limited – Hong Kong

Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Company – Vietnam

Sustainability Initiative of the Year
Shenzhen Xingguangda Jewelry Industrial Co Ltd – China

Young Entrepreneur of the Year (age 40 and below)
Abhay Chordia, Ashok Jewels – India

Angelina Lau, SK Jewellery Group – Singapore

“Tonight, we are celebrating a milestone in the jewellery and gemstone trade. These companies have demonstrated that with perseverance and forward-thinking, even in times of challenges, our industry can adapt, transform and continue to make positive impacts to the growth of the business. For that, they truly deserve our sincere congratulations and applause,” said Letitia Chow, Chairperson of the JNA Awards, and Director of Business Development – Jewellery Group at Informa Markets.

Headline Partners for the awards program are: Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group, the Shanghai Diamond Exchange, and DANAT, together with Honoured Partners KGK Group, China Gems and Jade Exchange, and Guangdong Land Holdings Limited.

Table sponsors include the following:

Anders Diamond B.V.B.A, Belgium
Beijing Caishikou Department Store Co Ltd, China
Chii Lih Coral Co Ltd, Taiwan
Continental Jewellery (Mfg) Ltd, Hong Kong
De Beers Group Institute of Diamonds, United Kingdom
DECENT Gold Group Co Ltd, China
Diamond Producers Association Belgium ESV, Belgium
Diamond Services Ltd, Hong Kong
GIA Hong Kong Laboratory Ltd, Hong Kong
Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade Manufacturers Association, Hong Kong
Ithra Dubai, Dubai
Phu Nhuan Jewelry Joint Stock Company, Vietnam
Shanghai Kimberlite Diamond Group Co Ltd, China
Shenzhen Sunfeel Jewelry Co Ltd, China
SK Jewellery Pte Ltd, Singapore

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Hini Star Unveils Three New Diamond Cuts At September Hong Kong Fair

September 19, 2019, 7:39 pm

≪ Previous: JNA Awards Honors Accomplished Jewelry Industry Professionals

Indian diamond manufacturer, Hini Star, used the opening ceremony of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair to unveil three new diamond cuts that the company says further enhances a diamond’s brilliance and appeal.

The three new cuts are named Stelo, Rozo and Floro. They are the first three diamond cuts that are part of the company’s new collection named “The Optica Series,” which consists of 18 new diamond cuts. The others will be announced gradually at later dates, according to Smit Virani, Hini Star chief operating officer.

Virani says the new diamond cuts feature symmetrical optical patterns that intensify the movement of light in the diamond. “We leveraged advanced digital design and manufacturing technologies to develop a patented process that creates unprecedented brilliance and significantly enhances overall light performance,” he said.

In addition, he said the diamond cuts are designed “to meet modern consumers' demands and how they experience a diamond.” Each one is strongly aligned with symbols – star (Stelo), rose (Rozo) and flower (Floro). He said each cut “reflects the personality, passion and philosophy of a new generation of diamond owners.”

Officials representing Hini Star and Informa Markets, which organizes the September Hong Kong jewelry fair, at the unveiling of The Optima Series of diamond cuts

The diamonds are available in 0.23 carat and up, D to H colors and VS2+ clarity grades.

“We will continue to grow The Optica Series with research-driven designs to reflect self-purchase and social media trends that attract younger buyers,” he said. “Consumers want an experience that goes beyond standard certifications. Each stone in The Optica Series tells a unique story that captures the values of socially conscious and highly individual consumers.”

Millennial and Gen Z consumers now account for two-thirds of diamond jewelry demand in the world and are more educated consumers when it comes to diamonds, he said. “They want something unique, natural and authentic that reflects their values. Consumers want to own and experience the most beautiful diamond they can.”

The industry is also rethinking traditional business models and marketing and sales strategies to better align with its target customers, he said.

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