Travel and Architecture's Influence on Jewelry Design

November 13, 2014, 12:06 pm

≫ Next: Temple St. Clair Enters the World of High Jewelry

≪ Previous: Q3 Global Gold Jewelry Demand Down 4%, US Demand Up 4%; India Demand Surges 60%

$

0

0

Disosceles ring inspired by the CCTV building in Beijing.

Jewelry News Network guest columnist, Chris Benham, is co-founder and director of Inspired Jewellery Ltd., Wellington, New Zealand, a global creative studio for specialist jewelry design. 

Each piece of jewelry designed by Ian Douglas, design director of Inspired Jewellery, has a story behind it. Inspirations that only a creative mind could weave into works of art in such abstract ways. Something we can all relate to is the endless inspiration that travel provides. Some people keep a diary to recount their travels, some take thousands of photos. Ian designs jewelry that acts as a visual journal of his travels, taking inspiration from what he has seen and turning this into beautifully crafted pieces.

A recurring theme seen in Ian’s jewelry is architecture from around the globe. Not surprising, as Ian’s original ambition was to become an architect. It is clear that the passion's still there as it influences many of his designs. Each ring design is like a mini building. Like buildings, they are complex structures that must hold together and form a function while still looking beautiful and aesthetically balanced on the hand. As architecture takes many forms in different cultures and contexts, each piece of jewelry is unique and serves as a real reminder of the places Ian has traveled.

In Beijing, a true marvel of architecture is the new CCTV building designed by Dutch and German architects Rem Koolhaas and Ole Scheeren of OMA. As Ian travelled to Beijing a number of times while working on a contract with Hiersun’s I Do stores in China, the striking design of the building continued to resonate with him; the offset form, cantilevered structure and overhanging center begged to be transformed into a ring. The resulting Disosceles ring (top photo) plays with rigid form and lines, yet blends perfectly around the finger; an architecturally-inspired wonder and a lasting memory of Beijing.

The CCTV building

In New York, inspiration is on every corner - you only need to look up. The Empire ring is one of the mementos of Ian’s time in Manhattan. The ring bears a style and energy that can only be described as quintessentially New York. “It’s a city that has a rawness and a refinement, incredible architecture and people, all interacting to create a feeling you can only connect to if you visit and, better still, live there. Inspired by the Empire State Building, the Empire ring is designed to distil those feelings,” says Ian.

A trip to Paris inspired the Pompidou ring. The Museum of Modern Art, with the services of the building placed on the exterior, is an exciting and visually challenging building. The wonderful contrast of line, color and movement is reflected in the Pompidou ring’s abstract patterns of contrasting gold and platinum, set off with a beautiful pear shape diamond, which serves as a collision of form and a design that exudes modern Paris chic.

A little closer to our home in New Zealand, inspiration taken from the scenery and landscapes of Australia that trace the origin of the diamonds in the Sol Ring are combined with the imagery of the sun dancing on the sweeping curves of the Sydney Opera House. Modern, urban architecture and rough outback terrain may seem like an unlikely combination, but one that epitomizes the beauty of Australia. The ring was created as part of the Terra Sol Collection designed for De Beers DTC Sightholder Diambel NV. 

The Leela ring is simply named after the hotel that Ian stayed at while in Bangalore. The architectural forms and exquisite detail in the hotel facade were enough to inspire this intricate ring.

Ian’s hometown of Wellington provides more architectural inspiration for his ring designs. The architecture of the Te Papa National Museum showcases a building that is a contrast of color and form. Using subtle color tones of palladium against white gold, Pacifica patterns of yellow gold and a blue topaz portraying the surrounding ocean, the Te Papa ring symbolizes the city. 

Ian’s travels and his appreciation of architecture are celebrated through his jewelry designs. As a designer, inspiration is gained from all facets of life; it is clear that travel and architecture is an endless inspiration source in the design of jewelry. For Ian, his visual travel journal continues to expand as he transforms wondrous sites into beautifully crafted pieces of jewelry, bringing a piece of the world home with him each time.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

---

Temple St. Clair Enters the World of High Jewelry

November 15, 2014, 6:18 am

≫ Next: Last Chance To View ‘Cycles of Life’ Rings Exhibition

≪ Previous: Travel and Architecture's Influence on Jewelry Design

$

0

0

Flying Fish bracelet made with sapphire, Paraiba tourmaline, tsavorite and Royal Blue Moonstone.

Luxury jewelry designer Temple St. Clair held a public unveiling of her first high jewelry collection at The Salon: Art + Design show in New York. 

Titled Mythical Creatures each of the nine, one-of-kind pieces represents artistic representations of the work she has done for 30 years. Nature themes with more colored gemstones, a few either extremely rare or almost never used for jewelry, used in a variety of intricate ways go together with the goldsmith and jewelry craftsmen in Florence, many of whom having with St. Clair for decades. The pieces are complex and elaborate but still retain a sense of refinement.

Secret Garden Serpent necklace made with tsavorite scales, a tanzanite head, Royal Blue Moonstone eyes and diamond accents.

To reinforce their status as works of art and collectibles, she collaborated with artists outside of the jewelry world to create a complete individual package for each piece. Her main partner in this project is fine contemporary artist and personal friend, Nancy Lorenz—known for working with precious materials such as mother-of-pearl inlay, lacquer, and gold leaf—who created a signature jewel box for each piece. She also brought in the services of photographer Robert Clark, best known for his work with National Geographic. His stylized photographs, along with St. Clair’s sketches and stories behind each piece are included in a personalized, hand-bound leather book designed and built in Florence. The book and each jewel are sized to fit inside the wooden box, which were made in Kyoto and then lined in leather in Florence.

Sleeping Fox ring made with spinel, mandarin garnet, emerald & diamond.

The display at The Salon: Art + Design art show at The Park Avenue Armory in New York, opened Friday and runs till Monday, is the first public viewing of the jewelry creations. The only other public viewing will be at Les Arts Decoratifs, January 29, 2015, during Paris’ Haute Couture Week. After that, these pieces, which are commanding six-figure prices, will be sold and delivered to private owners. In fact, in an interview months ago, St. Clair says that the interest is so strong that she expects the entire collection will be sold before the Paris exhibition. 

Sea Dragon earrings using emeralds, rubies, sapphires, Royal Blue Moonstone and diamond..

For St. Clair this project is the culmination of a life in jewelry, art and design. 

“Three years in actually making (the collection) and 30 years of having it come together,” St. Clair said during an interview in her New York studio. “I do a lot of bespoke work in the high jewelry realm (for private clients) but I haven’t worked in that realm necessarily on my own. And most of the bespoke work and high jewelry work goes to individuals. So we can’t show it or really talk about it that much. This is my first entrance into this level.” 

Medusa Moon Jellyfish ring in 18k gold with Australian Andamooka opal, Lightening Ridge black opal, sapphire, tsavorite, hauyn & rock crystal.

She continued, “I love nature and animals so I played with my interpretation. I refer to them as my mythical creatures but I’m actually making natural creatures mythical.” 

Each piece uses a variety of gemstones, cut, polished and set in many ways. Several are extremely rare, such as Paraiba tourmaline and Australian Andamooka opal. One gem known as hauyn, considered too soft to be set in jewelry, makes an appearance in at least one piece. 

Phoenix Chicks earrings using 18k gold with tanzanite, Lightening Ridge black opal, tourmaline, Royal Blue Moonstone, tsavorite & sapphire.

“No one puts this in jewelry,” she said. “I’ve seen it for years at gem shows but I’m told it’s only for collectors, not to be put in jewelry. But we managed.”

In addition, a variety of gem setting techniques and elaborate gold adornments are used for each item. They are extremely complex pieces. For example, the Secret Garden Serpent necklace has more than 1,000 gems. Green garnet serpent tsavorite cut in cabochons is used for the vertebrae, finely crafted with flexible joints to give it a proper look and feel.

“He feels so real and scaly,” she said.

Turtles on the Rocks ring using 18K gold with diamonds and Paraíba tourmalines.

Some pieces move with the light like the Flying Fish bracelet, which is taken from her time spent at sea actually viewing these fishes. Different shades of green tsavorite along with various blue gems (Paraiba tourmaline, blue sapphires and blue moonstones) are used to recreate the changing colors of scales when it reflected in the sun. 

“You catch a fish and turn it at different angles and it shows its colors differently,” she said. “It’s a super intricate piece. I’ve seen flying fish so I know what they should look like.”

Frog Prince ring in 18k gold with Mandarin garnet, tsavorite, sapphire and cat's eye.

St. Clair says that as her children have grown and become more independent and with her business is doing well, she is able to take time to create in new ways, which will lead to similar projects in the future.  

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Last Chance To View ‘Cycles of Life’ Rings Exhibition

November 19, 2014, 10:05 am

≫ Next: Navajo Jewelry ‘Glitters’ at American Indian Museum Exhibition

≪ Previous: Temple St. Clair Enters the World of High Jewelry

$

0

0

De Clercq Roman diamond ring

“Cycles of Life: Rings from the Benjamin Zucker Family Collection,” will come to end on December 6. So time is running out to view a private collection of more than 40 rings that run from the 3rd to the 19th centuries. In addition, to it being on public view at till December 6 at the Les Enluminures New York gallery, 23 East 73rd St.

Ruby and enamel gold ring

This is the first time that the entire collection is on display together and it will be the last as the entire collection is for sale. 

Ring with diamond-set Shoulders and bezel

Zucker is a well-known gem merchant and author who’s written scholarly publications and practical guides about gems and jewels, as well as novels. An illustrated catalog published by Paul Holberton, London, will accompany the exhibition, which will include contributions by Zucker, Sandra Hindman, founder of Les Enluminures, and Jack Ogden, chief executive of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain.

Gold ring with hand holding a heart

Many of the rings in the exhibition were previously on loan at the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore, which is known for its extensive jewelry collection, and a few pieces were at other museums. 

Mourning ring of Lieutenant Colonel Thomas

“Zucker is a great private collector and owns countless jewels,” said Cecilia Bonn, Les Enluminures Marketing and Communications director. “He really wanted the work cataloged. Sondra is good at applying scholarship to collections and specializes in Medieval and Renaissance manuscript illuminations, and Roman and byzantine jewelry. There’s a real compatibility here.”

Gold Jewish Marriage ring

Among the standouts is a Roman diamond ring that dates back to the third or fourth century. Once part of the de Clercq collection of Roman and Byzantine jewelry, the ring is centered by a natural uncut diamond with a double pyramid set in a high openwork bezel. It was acquired by Zucker in the 1970s, and loaned as the showpiece of the international traveling exhibition, “Diamonds and the Power of Love,” organized by the De Beers. The diamond giant declared that “the story of the diamond ring begins here”. It was most recently on display at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. It is second largest known surviving rough Roman diamond ring. 

Gold Signet ring with a merchant's mark and initials

“The roman uncut diamond ring one of 12 in existence that we know of,” Bonn said. “Seven of the rings are in the British museum and six are in private collections.”

Jewish marriage ring

Other standouts are an Italian made 14th Century Medieval sapphire and gold ring set with a 10th- century sapphire inscribed in Arabic; and a German-made 1631 diamond, ruby, and enamel gimmel ring, from the Rothschild Collection. 

Rothschild diamond ring

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Navajo Jewelry ‘Glitters’ at American Indian Museum Exhibition

November 20, 2014, 9:15 am

≫ Next: 9.75-Carat Blue Diamond Fetches World Auction Record $32.6 Million

≪ Previous: Last Chance To View ‘Cycles of Life’ Rings Exhibition

$

0

0

Bracelet by Raymond C. Yazzie, 2005. Silver inlaid with coral, turquoise, lapis lazuli, 14k gold accents. Collection of Mark and Martha Alexander.

“Glittering World: Navajo Jewelry of the Yazzie Family” explores the intersection of art and commerce through Navajo jewelry making. The exhibition of 300 items will run till January 10, 2015, at the by The Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of the American Indian George Gustav Heye Center, located in the Alexander Hamilton U.S. Custom House in New York.

Blue Corn Bracelet by Raymond C. Yazzie, 2005. Silver inlaid with coral, turquoise, lapis lazuli, 14k gold accents. Collection of Mark and Martha Alexander.

The exhibition focuses on jewelry made by members of Yazzie family of Gallup, N.M., which the museum describes as “one of the most celebrated jewelry making families of our time” for their silver, gold and stone inlay works. The bead and stone work of Mary Marie Yazzie is also featured in the exhibition.

Sun Face Bolo by Raymond C. Yazzie, 2013. Lone Mountain turquoise, 14k gold, silver. Diameter, 2 in. Collection of Lloyd and Betty Van Horn.

Various types of turquoise, coral and opal are used to create the pieces along with other materials, such as lapis lazuli and sugilite set with gold and silver. Many of the materials have both spiritual and economic value for Navajo peoples and are sacred stones in Navajo beliefs.

Nugget Necklace by Raymond C. Yazzie, 2009. Fossilized Lone Mountain turquoise, lapis lazuli, coral, sugilite, opal, 14-karat gold. Overall length, 31 in. Collection of Susan Heyneman.

The majority of the objects are based on nature with traditional Navajo themes, such as the Blue Corn bracelet, which replicates an open ear of corn with the kernels made of coral, turquoise or lapis lazuli with 14k gold accents. In addition, the painting-like Blessings bracelet is an abstract depiction of katsinas, a spirit being. It is constructed from approximately 485 stones of various turquoises, black onyx, Australian opal, lapis lazuli, sugilite, coral, gaspeite, and 14k gold, with a base of rare Water Web Kingman turquoise.

Lapis Bracelet by Lee A. Yazzie, 1984. Lapis lazuli, 18k gold. National Museum of the American Indian collection.

The displays show the relationship with the family’s artistic and crafts skills, their Southwest environments and their strong connection to their Navajo culture.

Squash Blossom Necklace by Lee A. Yazzie, 2012. Lone Mountain turquoise, silver. Collection of Jeffrey and Carole Katz.

“This exhibition tells a story of both the artisans and the craftsmanship, exploring the natural materials, cultural influences and surroundings that inspire the Yazzie family,” said Kevin Gover (Pawnee), director of the National Museum of the American Indian. “The exhibition goes beyond Native art to tell the story of the interplay between Navajo culture and commerce, which is in keeping with the museum’s mission to evolve the way visitors see and experience the long saga and continuing life of Native peoples.”

Blessing Bracelet by Raymond C. Yazzie, 2002-3. Height, 1 1/2 in. Collection of Daniel Hidding.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Ring by Raymond C. Yazzie, 2006. Opal, coral, lapis lazuli, jade, Blue Gem turquoise, Orvil Jack turquoise, 14k gold. Height. Collection of Leota and Phil Knight.

9.75-Carat Blue Diamond Fetches World Auction Record $32.6 Million

November 21, 2014, 6:21 am

≫ Next: ‘Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century’ At Denver Art Museum

≪ Previous: Navajo Jewelry ‘Glitters’ at American Indian Museum Exhibition

$

0

0

A 9.75-carat fancy vivid blue diamond from the collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon set two world auction records Thursday when it sold for more than $32.6 million Sotheby’s New York. 

The price, smashing its high estimate of $15 million, set a world auction record for any blue diamond; and set a world auction record for price-per-carat for any diamond, at more than $3.3 million per carat.

Seven bidders competed for 20 minutes for the pear-shaped diamond, Sotheby’s said. It ultimately sold to a Hong Kong private collector who named it “The Zoe Diamond.”

The previous auction record for any blue diamond was $24.3 million, set by the Wittelsbach Diamond at Christie’s London in December 2008. The previous per-carat auction record for any diamond was nearly $2.4 million, set by a 14.82 carat fancy vivid orange diamond at Christie’s in Geneva in November 2013.

“From the moment I saw this diamond, I knew that it would be one of the most important stones that I will ever have the privilege of presenting at auction,” said Gary Schuler, head of Sotheby’s Jewelry Department in New York. “Mrs. Mellon’s diamond absolutely deserves the place in the record books that it achieved tonight.”

The diamond was the top lot on the first day of a two-day sale of “Property from the Collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon: Jewels & Objects of Vertu.” Other jewelry pieces in the sale, which resumes today (Friday), include Verdura, Schlumberger and Givenchy, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Black Starr & Frost. 

Sotheby’s New York auctions of the Mellon Collection continue through Sunday.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

‘Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century’ At Denver Art Museum

November 22, 2014, 10:48 am

≫ Next: Giving Thanks for the Courage of Malala Yousafzai

≪ Previous: 9.75-Carat Blue Diamond Fetches World Auction Record $32.6 Million

$

0

0

Flamingo brooch worn by Duchess of Windsor. Cartier Paris, special order, 1940. Platinum, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, citrine; Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nils Herrmann

It was the most creative time for what is arguably the supreme international jeweler of the 20th Century.

Necklace worn by Elizabeth Taylor. Cartier Paris, 1951, altered in 1953. Platinum, diamonds, rubies. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

The Denver Art Museum is the sole venue worldwide for “Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century,” on view till March 15, 2015. The exhibition contains more than 250 pieces of jewelry, timepieces and precious objects produced between 1900 and 1975. Most of the pieces are from the jeweler’s “Cartier Collection,” with items on loan from other museums and private collections.

Tiara worn by Mrs. Townsend Cartier. Cartier Paris, special order, 1905. Platinum, diamonds; Height at center 9.8 cm. Provenance: Mary Scott Townsend and Mrs. Donald McElroy. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

Curated by Margaret Young-Sánchez, curator of the museum’s Frederick and Jan Mayer Center, the exhibition celebrates and chronicles the creative rise of Cartier in the 20th Century and its place in the dynamic history of the period.

Necklace worn by Countess of Granard. Cartier London, special order, 1932. Platinum, diamonds, emerald; Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Vincent Wulveryck

It was a time when old world royalty was being replaced by democratically elected governments and when captains of industry, world class entertainers and a handful of politicians stood on equal terms with the old aristocracy. Cartier stood at the intersection of this cultural change and took a leadership role, creating jewelry, timepieces and objects of art for some of the most important and famous people of the period. The exhibition has items belonging to the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace of Monaco, Dame Elizabeth Taylor, Franklin D. Roosevelt and Mexican film star María Félix.

Engagement Ring worn by Princess Grace of Monaco.Cartier Paris, 1956. Platinum, one 10.48-carat emerald-cut diamond, two baguette- cut diamonds. Palais Princier de Monaco

This is an exhibition for those who cherish Cartier’s most creative period when it was a family-owned firm (family members sold the business in 1964).

Crocodile Necklace made for Maria Félix.Cartier Paris, special order, 1975. Gold, diamonds, emeralds, rubies; Cartier Collection.Photo credit: Nick Welsh

“The evolution of Cartier takes us on a journey through 20th century history, from the era of the last czars in Russia to the Roaring ’20s in America to the onset of Hollywood glamour as we know it,” said Christoph Heinrich, director of the Frederick and Jan Mayer Center. “Focusing in on the creativity and pioneering vision of the Cartier brothers and their designers, visitors will walk away not only in awe of Cartier’s stunning works of art but also aware of the drastic cultural shifts that took place throughout the history of the maison.”

Laurel Leaf Tiara owned by Marie Bonaparte. Cartier Paris, 1907. Platinum and diamonds. Qatar Museums Authority.

Cartier’s international clientele reflected the rapid changes of the 20th Century. The jeweler’s rise took place in the context of an increasingly cosmopolitan cultural scene and aligned with international social, political and economic trends. The exhibition will present a selection of themes that span time periods and styles to display the influence and innovation of the jeweler.  

Tiger Lorgnette owned by Duchess of Windsor. Cartier Paris, special order, 1954. Gold, enamel, emeralds, glass. Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Nick Welsh

Exhibition themes include: 

* Aristocracy and Aspiration: Focusing on objects from 1900–1918, this section features diamond, sapphire, rock crystal and pearl jewelry and enameled decorative items that showcase a refined and elegant aesthetic embraced by European royalty and aristocrats—and the wealthy Americans who aspired to join their social class. 

Stomacher Brooch, Cartier Paris, special order, 1907. Platinum, sapphires, diamonds. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Art Deco: New Outlook: Cartier was a leader in the Art Deco movement of the 1910s to 1920s that highlighted a bold look with a new emphasis on color and geometry. The firm used new materials in this era such as jade, coral and black onyx.

Necklace created for Sir Bhupindra Singh, Maharaja of Patiala. Cartier Paris, special order, 1928. Platinum, diamonds, zirconias, topazes, synthetic rubies, smoky quartz, citrine; Cartier Collection.Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Art Deco: Foreign Fascination: After World War I, Cartier created original designs that incorporated exotic styles and materials including imported carved jade, lacquer and faience. This style culminated in the colorful tutti-frutti jewelry and sculptural mystery clocks. 

Tutti Frutti Strap Bracelet worn by Mrs. Cole Porter.Cartier Paris, 1929. Platinum, diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies. Cartier Collection.  Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Masculine View: Louis Cartier is credited with inventing the modern men’s wristwatch. The exhibition includes numerous models and styles, in addition to elegant and complex pocket watches, cuff links, pocket items, cocktail and desk accessories, and inscribed cigarette cases. Historic events commemorated by inscribed gift items made by Cartier are featured in the exhibition. 

Santos wristwatch, Cartier Paris, 1915. Gold, sapphire, leather strap. Cartier Collection. Photo credit: Nick Welsh

* Art of Smoking: Textured, enameled and jeweled cigar cutters, cigarette cases and lighters from 1907 through the 1940s. 

Five-Dial Clock owned by Franklin D. Roosevelt.Cartier New York, 1930. Ebonite, silver, nephrite, enamel, clock movement. Private collection.

* Age of Glamour: Designs from the 1930s to 1960s preferred by celebrities and “Café Society.”  

Set of Three Clip Brooches worn by Princess Grace of Monaco. Cartier Paris, 1955. Platinum, brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, three cabochon rubies weighing approximately 49 carats. Palais Princier de Monaco.

More photographs from the exhibition can be viewed by following this link. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Giving Thanks for the Courage of Malala Yousafzai

November 27, 2014, 10:13 am

≫ Next: Two Blue Sapphires Fetch Big Prices at Christie’s London Sale

≪ Previous: ‘Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century’ At Denver Art Museum

$

0

0

Photo credit: Christopher Furlong

The Taliban didn’t know what it was up against when it picked a fight with Malala Yousafzai. 

Two years ago, the then 15-year-old native of northwest Pakistan was shot in the head by members the Muslim extremist group while on a bus to school because of her advocacy for education and equal rights for women. 

There was one problem with this brutal plan. She didn’t die from this act of extreme violence. In fact, her recovery has been described as miraculous. Nor did she and her family cower from her attackers, despite additional calls for her death. 

Now at the age of 17 living in Birmingham, England, Malala’s advocacy for women and for education is now an international movement and she is its star. The youngest person to ever receive a Nobel Peace Prize, she now commands audiences with world leaders and at events around the world. Every public appearance is an act of defiance, striking a blow against the religious extremist group. 

On October 21, Malala was in Philadelphia to receive The Liberty Medal, presented annually to those who "strive to secure the blessings of liberty to people the world over." Earlier in the day, she was a speaker at the Forbes Under 30 Summit, also in Philadelphia. This is where I had a chance to see her speak to a crowd of young entrepreneurs. 

Thanksgiving Day is a time when we give thanks for what we have. I give thanks for the access my job allows me to listen to the words of someone like Malala Yousafzai. 

Being interviewed by Ronan Farrow of MSNBC, Malala describes her life as being divided between the normal routines of home and school and her advocacy for education and for women’s rights, appearing remarkably grounded when she discusses life at home and at school and even displaying a sly smile when discussing her relationship with her two brothers. She also hinted at very ambitious plans for her future.

“When I go outside I look 27 or 30 but when I go home I look 10 or 12, so at home I’m enjoying my time and fighting with my brothers, which is also quite nice sometimes. I try to tease them and annoy them. At home things are quite normal. I do my homework. I don’t feel like I am a global figure. When I go outside this is a role that I have right now speaking for girls’ education and for the education of every child. It’s not something that has been given to me by someone. It is what I have decided and it is what I’ve chosen for myself, so I’m happy with it. Malala, when she is home and she is in school she is a different person who has to obey her teachers. Here is the adult Malala, so these are two different parts of my life and I’m happy with that.”

There are also times when her two worlds intersect. For example, she was in chemistry class when she learned she won the Nobel Peace Prize. 

“They called an assembly at school. It was the first time I spoke on the stage at my school and I was so nervous,” she said. “I was not nervous at the UN. Not nervous here. But I was nervous at the school because the teachers were there and so were the students…. I told them that you are very lucky because you have such a great school. You have all the facilities. You have a science lab, a computer lab, you have wonderful teachers, you have good classrooms and chairs and tables, everything. But there are schools in some parts of the world where children do not have these facilities and some children do not have schools at all so you should be thankful that you have all these facilities and you are getting a quality education. It was a good opportunity to speak to my friends and speak to my teachers and thank all of them so I was very happy.”

She says at home or school she gets no special treatment. She also expresses thanks that her teachers challenge her at school. 

“They treat me like a normal student which is good in some ways and not good in some ways,” she said. “When I got the Nobel peace prize I was very busy with phone calls coming in and I couldn’t finish my English homework. So the next day my teacher asked me, ‘Where’s your homework?’ I said, ‘Miss I won the Nobel Peace Prize and I was quite busy and she replied ‘So what?’ and I said I will do it tomorrow.”

But when she talks about her advocacy, her resolve is apparent. 

“I fight for women’s rights and I believe everyone has equal rights as men have because why should there be a difference? … We have to change this idea that women are only suppose to work in the house not only just cooking and cleaning but she also has the ability to go outside and be in business, be a doctor, a teacher, an engineer. She should have a job as equally as men and she should be treated equally as men are. So I think equal treatment is very important and this is what Islam teaches.”

She jokes about the irony in her life of being a worldwide advocate for education and not being able to convince her brothers to study more.

“When I say to my younger brother are you doing your homework? Stop playing on the computer, he tells me to get lost,” she said. “I always tell them that you should focus on your education because when I go outside I tell every child that education is very important to you so at home I have two brothers who are not doing their homework and the younger is cheeky as well.”

She describes her life as being similar to a classic story. 

“I consider my story like a movie where in the beginning I have a happy life living a quality life in happiness and then a villain comes but in the end the villain loses and the hero wins and there’s a happy ending.”

When talking to world leaders she isn’t intimidated at all and focuses on keeping her message simple. 

“I have met a lot of people who are well known like presidents and prime ministers and I think it’s very important to reach out to those people and to ask them to contribute to education and make it very important and make it their top priority.”

She continued, “When I was in Pakistan, sometimes people ask me what do you say to the prime minister? And I say make sure every child goes to school but I think the prime minister wouldn’t be able to do it so I’m not going request the prime ministers anymore and when I grow up I’ll become a prime minister and I’ll bring the change.”

You can view video excerpts of Malala’s talk at the Forbes website.

 Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Two Blue Sapphires Fetch Big Prices at Christie’s London Sale

November 30, 2014, 10:10 am

≫ Next: Burmese Ruby and Diamond Necklace Highlights Sotheby’s Hong Kong Sale

≪ Previous: Giving Thanks for the Courage of Malala Yousafzai

$

0

0

A sapphire and diamond brooch, circa 1890s, centered with a 14.66-carat, Kashmir sapphire (pictured above) sold for nearly $2.2 million (150,000 per carat), nearly triple its 783,499 high estimate. It was the top lot at Christie’s London Important Jewels sale. 

The cushion shaped sapphire is surrounded by an old-cut diamond cluster raised on a scalloped gallery mounted in silver and gold. The auction house said the jewel was from the collection of the late Clive Behrens, and before that part of the collection of the late Evelina Rothschild. 

In addition, a sapphire and diamond pendant, circa 1880 (above), centered with a 41.54-carat Burma sapphire sold for more than $1.6 million ($39,000 per carat), more than triple its high estimate of $470,099. The sapphire on the gold plated pendant has an old-cut diamond line border and is further surrounded by cushion shaped diamonds. 

Both sapphires show no indications of being heat treated, according to the accompanying reports. 

Colored diamonds continue to demand high prices as a ring featuring a crossover design, set with two opposing pear shaped diamonds, a 1.54-carat fancy deep blue and a 1.78-carat fancy intense pink, sold for nearly $1.2 million, well above its $783,499 estimate.

The November 26 auction totaled $22.75 million in sales with 75 percent sold by lot and 89 percent sold by value. 

“The London sale of Important Jewels showed that quality, rarity and provenance continue to be the key factors sought by collectors worldwide,” said Keith Penton, head of Christie’s London Jewellery Department. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

---

Burmese Ruby and Diamond Necklace Highlights Sotheby’s Hong Kong Sale

November 30, 2014, 2:20 pm

≫ Next: 16 Hearts and Arrows Diamonds Fetch $2.6 Million at Bonhams

≪ Previous: Two Blue Sapphires Fetch Big Prices at Christie’s London Sale

$

0

0

Burmese rubies, colored diamonds and Cartier jewels led Sotheby’s Hong Kong Fine Jewels and Jadeite sale. 

The top lot was a ruby and diamond necklace with 50.57 carats of unheated “Pigeon’s Blood” Mogok Burmese rubies that sold for $805,128 (top photo). 

The necklace is set with 37 graduated oval rubies, decorated with approximately 42.70 carats of pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds mounted in 18k white and yellow gold. 

Other items of note at the November 28 sale include the following: 

* A 13.88-carat fancy intense yellow diamond and white diamond ring sold for $466,667. The yellow diamond is flanked by two trapeze-shaped diamonds together weighing approximately 3 carats, mounted in platinum and 18k yellow gold.

* A Cartier “Tiger” clip-brooch sold for $451,282, more than double its high estimate of $206,352. Set with brilliant-cut yellow diamonds and diamonds together weighing approximately 9.95 carats, speckled by onyx, embellished by pear-shaped emerald-set eyes, mounted in 18k yellow gold, signed and numbered.

* A 4.79-carat unheated “Pigeon’s Blood” Mogok Burmese ruby and diamond ring by Cartier sold for $435,897. The oval ruby is flanked on each side by a half-moon shaped diamond, decorated by brilliant cut and baguette diamonds together weighing approximately 1.30 carats, mounted in platinum, signed and numbered. 

* Fancy intense yellow diamond and white diamond ear clips that sold for $312,821. Each ear clip has a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamond weighing 6.30 and 6.15 carats respectively, suspended from a pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds weighing a total of 4.45 carats, mounted in platinum and 18k yellow gold.

The 180-lot auction of signed pieces, colored gems and diamonds, modern and vintage pieces, and a charity session to aid Operation Smile China Medical Mission, which provides free surgery to underprivileged children and young adults with cleft lips or cleft palates in China, fetched more than $7.85 million, with 87.2 percent of the items sold by lot and 75.8 percent sold by value. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

16 Hearts and Arrows Diamonds Fetch $2.6 Million at Bonhams

December 1, 2014, 9:06 am

≫ Next: Italian Gold Jewelry the Focus of Arezzo Tradeshow

≪ Previous: Burmese Ruby and Diamond Necklace Highlights Sotheby’s Hong Kong Sale

$

0

0

Diamonds, jade and a collection of Marina B jewelry were among the top achievers for Bonhams Fine Jewellery and Jadeite auction in Hong Kong. 

The top lot of the November 26 sale was a collection of flawless hearts and arrows diamonds that sold for more than $2.6 million. The collection of 16 brilliant-cut diamonds classified as D color, flawless, internally flawless attracted “spirited” bidding, according to the auction house. 

Each gem is accompanied by its own report from the Gemological Institute of America. The individual weight of the 16 gems ranged from 1.16 to 4.49 carats for a total carat weight of 39.98. Each gem is accompanied by its own report from the Gemological Institute of America. 

The GIA describes Hearts and Arrows as a clearly defined set of eight hearts and eight arrows in a round diamond. “It is a sign of excellent optical symmetry, an important component of cut. As such, its appearance is a very likely a sign of superior cut, but not a guarantee.” 

Other highlights include the following:

* An emerald and diamond cluster ring featuring a cushion-shaped, 10.09-carat emerald surrounded by brilliant cut diamonds that sold for $933,588.

* A highly translucent jadeite bangle of a bright apple green color, suffused with intense green streaks that sold for $670,532. 

* A fine two-strand jadeite bead necklace comprising of 49 and 53 graduated bright emerald green jadeite beads of very good translucency with a cabochon jadeite clasp that sold for $670,532. 

* A collection of jewelry designed by Marina B fetched more than $1.2 million. The top lot was a sapphire and diamond “Amelia” necklace and earring suite by Marina B that sold for $624,111. The articulated necklace is set with 12 cushion shaped sapphires, the largest weighing 15.95 carats, within pear and brilliant-cut diamond surrounds, spaced by marquise and pear-shaped diamonds. It is accompanied by a pair of earrings. Total diamond carat weight is 92.30 and total carat weight of sapphires is 104.81, signed by Marina B. 

Graeme Thompson, director of Jewellery at Bonhams Asia said the sale “is testament to the strength of the Asian market for rare items such the flawless collection of Hearts and Arrows diamonds and the Marina B jewels.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Italian Gold Jewelry the Focus of Arezzo Tradeshow

December 2, 2014, 1:24 pm

≫ Next: Piaget To Unveil Record-Breaking Ultra-Thin Altiplano Chronograph

≪ Previous: 16 Hearts and Arrows Diamonds Fetch $2.6 Million at Bonhams

$

0

0

Nemesi

The city of Arezzo is a gold jewelry manufacturing center that symbolizes Italian design and craftsmanship. It’s where jewelry for the masses meets with the artistry and craftsmanship that are the hallmarks of Italian jewelry design.

Unoaerre

It is in this Tucson region where the Gold/Italy jewelry trade fair was held, October 25-27. With its focus on Italian jewelry design and craftsmanship from 220 companies in the region, the show attracted jewelry industry professionals throughout Italy and from 50 countries around the world. 

Eurocatene

Fashion was a big focus of this year’s show with runway events matching jewelry to apparel ranging from street clothes to elaborate gowns. It’s not going to be a one-year theme as the officials of the local gold jewelry industry sees its future as a partner with fashion companies. 

Artur Gold

“Made in Italy jewelry is the result of excellent manufacturing skill and a historical goldsmith tradition. We have an extraordinary product which must be taken advantage of. Only those who innovate can hope to change the world,” said Andrea Boldi, president of Arezzo Fiere e Congressi, which owns Gold/Italy and Oroarezzo. “Arezzo is the home of jewelry, and in our territory, we have always been linked to another top quality and world famous excellence, fashion.”

Fratelli Chini

He added, “We are working towards having buyers from the fashion world directly at the show because, nowadays, in an increasingly dynamic and global world, we must be able to create further business links. For this show, we have managed to achieve an important result. We will have 240 top international buyers who are estimated to create over 1.5 billion dollars in Made in Italy sales.”

Fratelli Bovo

This year’s show provided a good representation of the region’s artistry, with new creative designs, more traditional solid-gold fare, mixed jewelry pieces incorporating precious and semiprecious stones, and silver jewelry.

Gruppo Eclat

One of the things these artisans do well is create designs using finely woven gold mesh, in threads that in some cases are half the thickness of a human hair, shaped and molded into elaborate necklaces, earrings, brooches, and bracelets. The same type of variety and detail is present in gold-beaded pieces. Big, bold pieces, something Italians are noted for, were also evident as well color in many of the designs.

Mulino d'Oro

Two companies, Fratelli Bovo and Fratelli Chini, provided different examples of the mesh technique, with the first shaping the fine gold threads in a corkscrew pattern for a necklace, earrings and ring set; while the latter uses crisscross patterns that extend out into a series of semicircles for a bracelet. 

New Line

Unoaerre created a fine-beaded bracelet in a woven pattern that looked like ribbon. Another bracelet by Gruppo Eclat mixed yellow gold with a brown colored gold finished for a two-color thick bracelet in a tight woven pattern. 

Prestige

A few years ago, jewelry manufacturer, Nemesi, turned to 3D printing to create its jewels and now 90 percent of its pieces are made with this technology, which has freed the company creatively, said Paolo Cerofolini. “We can do anything,” he said. “The only limit is the market.” 

Aqua

He adds that the company has been in “full production” for the past five years and business continues to pick up as the price of gold has declined. 

Nemesi’s offerings included a two-stone ring made with threads of gold in random-like patterns and topped with a Japanese cultured pearl and a round faceted citrine. 

The Graziella Group provides jewelry in gold and silver in classic, modern and fashion designs for women of all ages. Its products extend to accessories, such as leather handbags and a quartz watch line. They sell to retailers and directly to consumers. Its major markets are in the Middle East, Dubai, Russia and China. 

Serena Cutini, a sales representative with the company, said it was not affected by the global downturn.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Piaget To Unveil Record-Breaking Ultra-Thin Altiplano Chronograph

December 4, 2014, 10:14 am

≫ Next: Luxury Jewelry and Watch Brands Make their Mark at Art Basel Miami Beach

≪ Previous: Italian Gold Jewelry the Focus of Arezzo Tradeshow

$

0

0

Piaget has released the first images of a new timepiece that it says sets records for the world’s thinnest chronograph movement and world’s thinnest chronograph timepiece.

The Altiplano Chronograph will be shown publicly for the first time at the 25th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, January 19 – 23 in Geneva. The luxury brand, known for its record-breaking achievements in its ultra-slim timepieces, says this is the first ultra-thin, hand-wound chronograph for Piaget in its ultra-thin Altiplano collection and the first one with a major complication.

The in-house 883P handwound chronograph caliber set a double slimness record for its 4.65 mm hand-wound flyback chronograph movement, and for its 8.24 mm case, the company said. This achievement was the result of two years of development at Piaget’s La Côte-aux-Fées, Switzerland, manufacturing facility.

The collection of ultra-thin parts to create the timepiece includes the cannon-pinion (0.12 mm), the barrel staff (0.115 mm) and the chronograph gear finger (0.06mm). The watch has a 50-hour power reserve. It displays hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, along with a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a 24-hour dual-time indication at 9 o’clock. Its flyback function serves to reset the chronograph hands to zero simply by pressing them and then automatically restarting a new timing cycle. In addition, the chronograph is controlled by a column-wheel responsible for coordinating its phases, and by a vertical coupling-clutch system ensuring precision. This movement, visible through the transparent case-back, has a circular Côtes de Genève stripe decoration, a circular-grained mainplate, beveled bridges, sunburst wheels and blue screws.

The dial features a sunburst satin-brushed finish, slender baton-type hands, and slim alternating single and double hour-markers. The chronograph counters are not hollowed as is usually the case, but appear on the same level as the rest of the dial. The elongated chronograph pushers blend into the curves of a streamlined ultra-thin 41 mm diameter case. It is complemented with an alligator leather strap fitted with a pin buckle. The watch is available in pink gold or white gold set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds (approximately 1.8 carats).

This timepiece is the latest representation of Piaget’s expertise in ultra-thin watches that dates back to 1957. The company has created 25 ultra-thin movements that hold 14 world records for their thinness.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Luxury Jewelry and Watch Brands Make their Mark at Art Basel Miami Beach

December 8, 2014, 12:00 pm

≫ Next: Montblanc Unveils ‘Power of Words’ Film Honoring Nelson Mandela

≪ Previous: Piaget To Unveil Record-Breaking Ultra-Thin Altiplano Chronograph

$

0

0

Van Cleef & Arpels celebrates international debut of GEMS Part II by Benjamin Millepied.Photo credit: Joe Gato

Van Cleef & Arpels, Forevermark Diamonds, Roger Dubuis and IWC were among the luxury jewelry and watch brands that were hosting special events at the 13th edition of Art Basel Miami Beach, held December 3 -7. 

On December 1, Van Cleef & Arpels, celebrated the international premiere of “Gems Part II: Hearts & Arrows,” the second chapter in a three-part dance. Gems was created exclusively for the French luxury jeweler through a collaboration with Benjamin Millepied and his L.A. Dance Project. The brand has been long committed to creativity, culture, and dance. The performance presented a new interpretation of precious stones, supported by artist Liam Gillick and a score composed by Philip Glass.

Van Cleef & Arpels “Pas de Deux Nacre” clip. Diamonds, yellow sapphires and white and golden mother-of-pearl set in 18k white gold. The clip is transformable so that dancers and diamond motif can be worn together or separately.

Presented in downtown Miami at the Olympia Theater at the Gusman Center, the evening was held to benefit The Wolfsonian - FIU. Following the performance, the celebration continued at The Alfred I. DuPont Building, where guests were treated to dinner prepared by famed chef, Daniel Boulud. Models draped in Van Cleef & Arpels jewels appeared then vanished through a corridor of mirrors. High jewelry pieces were displayed in deconstructed galleries that played with proportion and perspective. A portal in a secret vault revealed a kaleidoscope of brilliant gems, hidden within the walls. 

Among those in attendance, Nicolas Bos, president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, Alain Bernard, president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels, Americas, Benjamin Millepied, founder of the L.A. Dance Project, Matthew Abess, curator at the Wolfsonian - FIU, and Sergey Filin, ballet director of the Bolshoi Ballet.

Model and DJ Hannah Bronfman (right) and artist Mylinh Trieu Nguyen in Forevermark diamond jewelry.

On December 2, Forevermark, the diamond brand from The De Beers Group of Companies, hosted a VIP Preview Reception at the Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami’s Opening Celebration, the official museum kick-off event for Miami Art Week.

The event served to unveil the “Promise” installation. Designed by Miami resident artist Mylinh Trieu Nguyen, the installation displayed a selection of diamonds from the Forevermark Exceptional Diamond Collection. Nguyen's installation illuminated the intersection of art, design, technology, and the diamond through videos that respond to the symbolism and character of one of the most prized and valued objects on earth.

Model and DJ, Hannah Bronfman, was on hand wearing some of the pieces.

On December 3, Jean-Marc Pontroué, Roger Dubuis CEO, and supermodel Stephanie Seymour (above) hosted a private dinner at the new Thompson Miami Beach hotel. The approximate 100 persons who attended, included Russell Simmons, Jonathan Cheban, Geoff Stults and Klaus Biesenbach of MoMA.

Velvet Haute Couture Mink Fur

The event was a chance to showcase the Swiss watch brand’s new Velvet Haute Couture collection, a limited edition of three models within the brand’s Velvet ladies collection. All of the models in the collection have a big dose of glamour with distinguishable design characteristics, such as graphic split-level dials and dynamic numerals tapering toward the center. As the face of the Velvet collection, Seymour was on hand along with her husband Peter Brant.

Karolina Kurkova wears Forevermark diamond jewelry at IWC Gala.

Also on December 3, Karolina Kurkova was adorned in Forevermark diamonds while attending a gala event hosted by Swiss luxury watch brand, IWC at W South Beach Hotel. The model was wearing the Forevermark Cluster Shield Ring and Teardrop Earrings. The event was held to mark the launch of the new Portofino Midsize watch collection.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Montblanc Unveils ‘Power of Words’ Film Honoring Nelson Mandela

December 11, 2014, 7:54 am

≫ Next: Colorful Louis Comfort Tiffany Antique Jewelry Suite Fetches $161,000 at Bonhams

≪ Previous: Luxury Jewelry and Watch Brands Make their Mark at Art Basel Miami Beach

$

0

0

Caroline Rupert introduces the “Power of Words” film.

Montblanc recently hosted the U.S. premiere of a film project honoring Nelson Mandela at NeueHouse in New York. 

The “Power of Words” film celebrates Mandela’s life and the positive ways in which he transformed societies and lives worldwide, Montblanc said in a statement. The screening on December 5 fell on the heels of the film project’s international premiere, held in Cape Town, South Africa, with Mandela’s family in attendance.  

Nelson Mandela had a special bond with his Montblanc fountain pen calling it his “presidential pen.” The anti-apartheid revolutionary, South African president and Nobel Peace Prize winner also understood the importance and value of words.

With this in mind, the Power of Words project inspires filmmakers to explore the written legacy of influential figures using film. The series takes a look at the teachings and writings of Nelson Mandela as inspiration. The series was made possible by Montblanc and created in partnership with the Tribeca Film Institute and the Nelson Mandela Foundation

Five filmmaker teams interpreted a selection of Mandela’s quotes, shooting and editing five short narrative films based on his words. Special guest contributor, photojournalist Steve McCurry, translated Mandela’s words into images, creating a photography exhibition inspired by the project that will open in the Summer of 2015 at the Nelson Mandela Foundation in Houghton, South Africa.

Directors commissioned to bring the words of Mandela to life over the past six months are Mira Nair, Ramin Bahrani, Eva Weberand, James Marsh, Hank Willis Thomas, Zippy Kimundu and Nabil Elderkin. Five of TFI’s Tribeca Film Fellows—US-based high school and college students who completed a year-long fellowship through the Institute—were selected to work in partnership with the established filmmakers to produce the short films. 

“As a Maison rooted in the culture of writing, we are delighted to see the extraordinary words of one of modern history’s most inspiring figures interpreted in film”, said Jérôme Lambert, Montblanc International CEO. “We share Nelson Mandela’s belief in the importance of meaningful words and education. His unique vision for democracy, peace, social equality and learning lives on through the power of his words, and we hope that through each of these films, others will continue to be inspired by his legacy.”

The screening and celebration, co-hosted by Caroline Rupert, was attended by Tribeca Film Institute co-founder Jane Rosenthal, Africa Rising Foundation Co-Founder Kweku Mandela Chrissy Teigen, participating director Nabil Elderkin, members of the Tribeca Film Institute and an intimate selection of international guests.

Those in attendance included (from left) Tyler Stachan, Nia Ashley, Caroline Rupert, Kweku-Mandela, Nabil Elderkin, Jane-Rosenthal, Mia Nair and Frisly Soberanis.

The Power of Words project was first launched by Montblanc in April 2013 to bring together a new generation of filmmakers through the iconic words of the anti-apartheid revolutionary, South African president and Nobel Peace Prize winner, using Mandela’s legendary and most powerful quotes in feature short films that give new meaning to his legacy and vision. A short film, directed by Nabil Elderkin, was projected in New York’s Times Square every night shortly before midnight for a month. The film celebrates his peaceful vision in the form of an art installation. 

Montblanc, along with TFI and the Nelson Mandela Foundation, announced the continuation of the Power of Words for a short film project at the 90-years celebration of the iconic Meisterstück writing instrument in April 2014 in New York City.

The bond Mandela had with his pen is described in “Good Morning, Mr. Mandela,” a memoir by Mandela’s aide and private secretary, Zelda la Grange. 

“On one occasion he went to Sandton City, a big shopping mall on the outskirts of Johannesburg. He was determined to buy a pen and the security detail took him to the Montblanc store. Until he got ill, Madiba wore the pen in his pocket, referring to it as a Presidential Pen,” la Grange wrote.

“Madiba had very few personal things that he was religiously holy about. His two pens, his wristwatch, his empty wallet, his ivory walking stick and the holder for his reading glasses, as well as his hearing aids. The most important, of course, was his wedding ring…. These items had to be neatly placed beside his bed every night and they were the first items he looked for when he woke up.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Colorful Louis Comfort Tiffany Antique Jewelry Suite Fetches $161,000 at Bonhams

December 11, 2014, 11:25 am

≫ Next: Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Sale Fetches $66.6 Million

≪ Previous: Montblanc Unveils ‘Power of Words’ Film Honoring Nelson Mandela

$

0

0

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

A rare antique jewelry suite of sapphire, demantoid garnet and enamel attributed to Louis Comfort Tiffany sold for $161,000 (including premium), soaring past its high estimate at Bonhams Fine Jewelry auction in New York.

The suite, created for Tiffany & Co., circa 1920, is led by a pendant centered by an oval, irregularly-domed cabochon sapphire. It sits within a scrolling frame suspending a flexible swag, accented by circular and oval-cut demantoid garnets and sapphires, highlighted by enamel floral sprays and suspended from a chain of floral links. It is completed by a box clasp set with circular-cut sapphires, pendant earrings en suite; chain and pendant earrings.

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

The top lot of the evening was an 8.45-carat Cartier diamond ring pictured above). The rectangular step-cut diamond within a pierced and openwork pavé-set diamond surround sold for $293,000. 

Despite being the top lot, the diamond ring must have felt a bit lonely at the sale dominated by rare sapphires, emeralds and other colored gems. As a signed piece, it was among many that were in high demand at the December 8 sale, which realized $4.1 million. 

“More contemporary signed jewels continue to thrive in the auction environment,” said Susan Abeles, VP and director of the Jewelry at Bonhams North America, “The sale was dominated by colorful estate property which was well received by an international audience.”

Other highlights of the sale include:

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

* A 3.2-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring that fetched $118,750, almost twice the high estimate.

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

* A sapphire and diamond brooch with a diamond weight of 6.85 carats, which realized $112,500, nine times the high estimate.  

Photo credit: image courtesy of Bonhams

* A Colombian emerald and diamond ring, featuring a large emerald cabochon weighing approximately 50 carats surrounded by diamonds. It achieved $106,250, over 3.5 times the high estimate.

* A late art deco ruby and diamond bracelet, circa 1935, with a total diamond weight of 14.00 carats, which sold for $106,250, well past its high estimate.

* Natural button pearl diamond ear studs, each over 10mm, realizing $45,000, close to 6.5 times its high estimate. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

---

Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Sale Fetches $66.6 Million

December 11, 2014, 5:00 pm

≫ Next: Colorless Diamonds and Celebrated Collections Lead Sotheby’s Jewelry Sales

≪ Previous: Colorful Louis Comfort Tiffany Antique Jewelry Suite Fetches $161,000 at Bonhams

$

0

0

89.23-carat, pear-shaped D-color VVS1 diamond sold for nearly $11.1 million.

Christie’s New York ended the auction's house's fine jewelry sale season in the Americas with its Magnificent Jewels sale Wednesday that fetched more than $66.6 million (including premiums), producing a final tally in 2014 of approximately $188 million for the Americas. Worldwide jewelry sales amounted to about $740 million, although a complete sales report will be released by the auction house in January 2015.

The top lot of the New York sale was an 89.23-carat, pear-shaped D-color VVS1 diamond (top photo) that sold for nearly $11.1 million (including premium). The diamond, mounted in a platinum setting, sold at $124,000 per carat. 

Other sales of note included a pair of pear-shaped fancy light yellow diamond ear pendants of 52.88 and 51.46 carats (pictured above) that sold for more than $5.4 million, double its presale estimate; and a 5.25-carat Burmese ruby ring by Harry Winston that fetched $1.65 million, more than triple its low estimate.

Other highlights of the sale include the following:

* A colored diamond suite of 593.61 carats, by Jahan that sold for $4.6 million (the necklace is pictured above).

A 21.30-carat, oval-cut fancy light pink Golconda diamond that sold for $4.25 million, or $200,000 per carat.

* A 32.32-carat, oval-cut D-color VVS1 Potentially Internally Flawless diamond by Bulgari sold for more than $4 million, or $126,000 per carat.

* A 32.72-carat, rectangular-cut D-color VS1 diamond sold for $2.4 million, or $74,000 per carat.

* A 1.42-carat, oval-cut fancy red VS2 diamond sold for $2.16 million or more than $1.5 million per carat.

* A 14.28-carat, marquise-cut fancy brownish pink Internally Flawless diamond sold for more than $2 million, or $143,000 per carat.

* A 5.70-carat, rectangular-cut fancy blue VS1 diamond sold for more than $2 million, or $360,000 per carat.

* A single-strand natural pearl and diamond necklace measuring from 13.10 to 8.00 mm sold for $1.8 million.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Colorless Diamonds and Celebrated Collections Lead Sotheby’s Jewelry Sales

December 12, 2014, 7:46 am

≫ Next: Sotheby’s New York Watch Auction Fetches $7.2 million

≪ Previous: Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Sale Fetches $66.6 Million

$

0

0

A platinum-topped gold and diamond necklace presented to Helen Hay on the occasion of her marriage to Payne Whitney in 1902 was the top lot at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale. 

The necklace (pictured above) features four diamonds ranging from F to H color, and weighing 27.48, 15.53, 13.08 and 8.91 carats respectively, the necklace sold for nearly $3.2 million. The marriage of Hay and Whitney was a society event that made headlines across the United States. All seven jewels from the estate of Helen Hay Whitney were sold for $4.8 million. 

In addition to the Helen Hay Whitney estate, collection from Estée Lauder, Evelyn H. Lauder and Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia were among the most sought after jewels from bidders, which included a world record price for a Cartier “Tutti Frutti” bracelet

Jewels from the collections of Estée Lauder and Mrs. Evelyn H. Lauder together achieved $3.9 million, with more than 80 percent of the pieces on offer fetching prices above their high estimates.

Thirty-two jewels from the collection of Evelyn H. Lauder—sold to benefit The Breast Cancer Research Foundation—were led by a “Tutti Frutti” bracelet by Cartier, circa 1928 (pictured above), that sold for more than $2.1 million (more than double its high estimate), marking a new world auction record for any Tutti Frutti bracelet by Cartier.

Ten pieces from the Estée Lauder collection sold to benefit the Alzheimer’s Drug Discovery Foundation were led by a pair of fancy brown-yellow diamond and diamond earclips by Van Cleef & Arpels that fetched $233,000.

A pair of platinum, emerald and diamond pendant-earclips (pictured above) that originally belonged to the legendary collection of Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia sold for more than $1 million. After being smuggled out of Russia by an English friend of the Duchess following the abdication of the Tsar in 1917, the emeralds descended to the Duchess’s daughter and granddaughter, and were acquired at auction at Sotheby’s Geneva in 1987 for Princess Gloria von Thurn und Taxis, the auction house said. 

From the collection of Marlene Dietrich—the legendary actress, singer and cabaret star—a 14k tri-color gold and lapis lazuli bracelet, Cartier circa 1940, sold for $179,000, nearly six times above its high estimate. The bracelet was a gift from longtime friend Erich Maria Remarque, author of “All Quiet on the Western Front.”

Two platinum and diamond rings were among the top four lots of the auction, showing that despite the trend toward colored diamonds, statement colorless diamonds can still bring in world-class prices. 

The first featured a 25.44-carat emerald-cut diamond of D color, VVS1 clarity and potentially Internally Flawless. It sold for $2.96 million, or $116,548 per carat (pictured above).

The second featured a 47.48- carat, round brilliant-cut diamond of K color, VVS1 clarity that sold for $1.8 million. 

Other highlights of the auction were:

* A platinum and diamond ring centered by a 3.02 emerald-cut fancy grayish blue diamond with VVS2 clarity, circa 1930, sold for $1.4 million, or $478,476 per carat, well above its high estimate.

* A platinum, fancy intense purplish pink diamond and diamond ring, 3.07 carats, SI2 clarity, sold for $1.2 million ($392,508 per carat).

* Platinum and diamond earclips by Harry Winston, 10.20 carats, G color, VVS2 clarity and 9.53 carats, G color,VS1 clarity, sold for $1.08 million ($54,992 per carat).

* Egyptian-revival platinum, diamond and colored stone bracelet, LaCloche Frères, Paris, sold for $1.5 million. 

The December 9 auction achieved more than $44.1 million in sales, with 75.8 percent sold by lot and 81.1 percent sold by value. It raised Sotheby’s worldwide jewelry sales in 2014 to $597.5 million, already surpassing the record $529.3 million the company achieved in 2013 in this category. This is without including Sotheby’s London jewelry sale held Thursday. The auction house estimates that sales for 2014 will exceed $600 million.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Sotheby’s New York Watch Auction Fetches $7.2 million

December 14, 2014, 11:56 am

≫ Next: The 'Millennials’ - insights Into What’s Shaping their Buying Habits

≪ Previous: Colorless Diamonds and Celebrated Collections Lead Sotheby’s Jewelry Sales

$

0

0

A Patek Philippe Reference 658 black dial pocket watch (pictured above) was the top lot at Sotheby’s New York Important Watches auction, selling for $527,000, well above its high estimate. Made in 1937, it features a yellow gold open-faced perpetual calendar split-seconds chronograph minute repeater with moon phases and a black dial. The auction house says it is the first known reference 658 to have been produced and one of 15 made with a black dial.

The December 11 sale was Sotheby’s final watch auction of 2014. It achieved $7.2 million, with 68.5 percent sold by lot and 74.6 percent sold by value, raising the company’s 2014 sales in this category to a Sotheby’s record of $100.1 million for the year.

Familiar names in the watch world such as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Paul Newman Daytona Rolex watches shared the center of attention with rare complicated mechanical clocks.

Other top lots include:

* A Courvoisier & Compe. no. 11359 ormolu and mahogany two tune musical automaton birdcage clock with double singing and flying birds sold for $389,000, well above its estimate. The circa 1820 clock was the top lot from the collection of Frank and Lore Metzger that totaled $753,000.

* A Patek Philippe Ref. 5959 platinum split seconds chronograph wristwatch with register sold for $257,000. Sotheby’s said the circa 2008 timepiece with its “Officer” style case, white dial and special italicized Arabic numerals, “bears many striking similarities” to the earliest-known split second chronograph wristwatch: the no. 124824, started in 1903 and completed in 1923, which the auction house sold in June for $2.9 million.

* A Black Starr & Frost and Pierre Gravoin rock crystal, mother-of-pearl, hardstone and gem-set desk timepiece, circa 1930, sold for $377,000, more than three times its high estimate.

* Five of Rolex’s “Paul Newman Daytonas” sold for a combined total of $591,000. The group was led by a stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with bracelet (Ref 6263 No 2874356) Paul Newman Daytona Panda, circa 1970, that sold for $185,000.

* A Vacheron Constantin yellow gold, enamel, and pearl-set open-faced watch sold for $233,000. Made in 1930 with an enamel scene of Le Temps et les Parques painted by Jeanne Vauthey, it is among a celebrated few Vacheron Constantin timepieces from the early 20th century with a painted enamel scene, Sotheby’s said. The image depicts the Three Fates, “who spin, measure and cut a length of yarn in an allegory for destiny.”

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

The 'Millennials’ - insights Into What’s Shaping their Buying Habits

December 18, 2014, 4:20 pm

≫ Next: Shawish Opens Dreamy London Boutique

≪ Previous: Sotheby’s New York Watch Auction Fetches $7.2 million

$

0

0

Photo credit: Shannon Stapleton/Reuters

Jewelry News Network guest columnist, Chris Benham, is co-founder and director of Inspired Jewellery Ltd., Wellington, New Zealand, a global creative studio for specialist jewelry design.

Creating a luxury brand amidst the information overload on the internet is increasingly becoming a challenge. As jewelry companies look to position themselves for the next generation of purchasers, I took the opportunity to ask Hunter and Angelka, both in their early 20’s (the “Millennial Generation”) to share their views on what’s shaping their buying habits and how they are filtering through the holiday sale season madness.

In part one of this two part article we hear from Hunter, followed in part two by Angelka. They provide some valuable views on what’s important to them and insights into what investment jewelry companies need to make to win their trust and future business.

Hunter:

There will always be those who are motivated primarily by price, but I think that quality is becoming a more decisive factor in the purchase decisions of the middle class with budget concerns but still with income disposable for consumer goods purchases.

My purchases have definitely shifted in recent years to quality, longevity, exclusivity, innovation and/or tradition, and un-branded, timeless style. Plain leather shoes, vinyl records, and Ikea furniture being a few examples. The brands that appeal to me are ones that think outside the box and sell me on their product instead of their logo. My watch designed for the sight-impaired, and my urbanears headphones are the kinds of products I most treasure. Based on where I see a lot of these such products coming out of, I think that Northern Europe learnt this idea a while ago.

Our generation has seen quality triumph over price or quantity already in digital media: music and movies are now so easy to purchase online (and of such reliable quality) that the majority of consumers are choosing to do that instead of downloading free pirated copies. I think it's natural to be distrustful of something that's irrationally low priced. There's a reason why a company would charge more for their product, and if it's not because they have an expensive label (see Gucci, Louis Vuitton, etc.), then presumably it's because it costs more to make and is of higher quality.

It's more than just your pricing - your whole company has to reflect that image of forward-thinking design and age-proven quality. It's manifested in everything from the materials of the product (wood, glass, metal, and natural fibers seem to be preferred over plastic and its derivatives) to the fonts you use on the website.

I value companies that have a forward-thinking outlook, but root it in a timeless, tangible product. In particular companies that build a story around the people behind the products. When I bought my watch (designed for the sight-impaired), I could view on the company's website not only the entire company from designers to marketers, but also some of the blind people they brought on as beta testers. That human element really set them apart to me. I would continue to stress it when individuals design and build jewelry. 

Charitable donations and purchases are increasingly indistinct to my generation, and so when we have the chance to directly support people with our purchases, we respond to that. Kickstarter, the crowdfunding site where you pledge money that becomes the company's investment capital in return for perks or the first products off the line, does a great job of leveraging that. Another example is a website called Subbable - I donate a small monthly amount to online video producers that I like to support their (ad-free) content, and in return I can "bank" those dollars towards perks (like merchandise). I wouldn't do this if I didn't feel some connection to the producers. 

I definitely believe that buying decisions in my generation are shifting from purely price-driven to something based in quality that reflects one's personality and tells a unique story.

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.

Shawish Opens Dreamy London Boutique

December 22, 2014, 7:16 am

≫ Next: The 'Millennials’ Part 2 - insights Into What’s Shaping their Buying Habits

≪ Previous: The 'Millennials’ - insights Into What’s Shaping their Buying Habits

$

0

0

The staggered chandelier serves as central design element

Swiss high jeweler Shawish Genève continues to expand into new markets and ventures. Recently, it opened its first London boutique in the affluent central London neighborhood of Chelsea. 

The dream-like space matches its enchanted jewelry inspired by magical forests, fairytale legends and exploratory voyages.

The fish scale motif for the entrance

The facade of the space employs a motif in the likeness of colorful fish scales backed by black marble that reflect light in the same way that fish scales do in the sunlight. Inside, walls of neutral off-white shades and gray carpeting are offset by touches of purple, the Shawish corporate color. The centerpiece is a chandelier of luminescent glass tubes hanging in staggered columns a bit like stalactite formations in a cave. 

The display for the one-of-a-kind Octopus bracelet

Ten display cases contain the one-of-a-kind and limited edition pieces in staged fantasy settings. For example, the Octopus bracelet sits on a pillow resembling an underwater throne surrounded by five columns. Two Teddy Bear pendants, which depict bejeweled teddy bears resting on crescent moons, are displayed in a night setting, with one on the corner of a starlit sky looking down on its partner resting on a cloud. 

The nighttime display for the Teddy Bear bracelet

Shawish’s Moonlight Necklace, with its twisted branches of white gold paved in white diamond, commands center stage in front of a portrait of an orange moon. Flanking the necklace are matching earrings and ring. In another display, jewels are encased in a frosty winter scene with mounds of snow below and stalactite formations above. Bejeweled Magic Mushroom pendants are suspended on the showroom floor near the entrance. 

The display for the Moonlight suite of jewelry

This is the company’s second boutique, the other being at its headquarters in Geneva. Mohamed Shawesh, co-founder, said the boutique was designed to reflect the cosmopolitan and quirky nature of London and its people. 

A winter scene for a jewelry display

“We are here for the wonderful weird people, the English flavor, and to stir up the international glamour factors of the city,” he said. “Most of all we’re here to celebrate high jewelry with a heartbeat.”

Magic Mushrooms hang about at the entrance of the boutique

The company is reportedly opening a third boutique in Dubai. So the expansion continues. 

Please join me on the Jewelry News Network Facebook Page, on Twitter @JewelryNewsNet and on the Forbes website.