Hermès Extends Apple Watch Partnership With New Leather Strap Collection

September 17, 2017, 3:33 am

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The same day Apple released its third version of the Apple Watch Hermès unveiled a collection of five leather straps for the newest smart watch.

The new Apple Watch Hermès collection for the Apple Watch Series 3 models expands upon the three leather straps that were first introduced in 2015. The new additions are the Single Tour Rallye and the Single Tour Éperon d’Or.

In addition, traditional French brand known for its old-world craftsmanship also released a new Hermès watch face, inspired by the Carrick Hermès watch, designed by Hermès legendary designer Henri d’Origny in 1993. This completes the selection of Hermès watch faces for Apple smart watches.

Apple Watch Hermès Series 3 consists of the following:

* The Single Tour Rallye – The perforated Gala calfskin is inspired by classic Hermès driving gloves. It’s designed to be paired with the 42mm stainless steel case.

* Single Tour Éperon d’Or in printed calfskin, inspired by the equestrian scarf pattern created by d’Origny in 1974. It is available in Marine leather with 38mm and 42mm stainless steel cases.

* Double Tour  - The extra-long band wraps twice around the wrist. Available in Fauve (natural tan) Barenia leather (Hermès top quality leather) and Indigo Swift leather, each paired with a 38mm stainless steel case.

* Single Tour - The buckle is inspired by the straps of a horse’s girth, a nod to the equestrian heritage of Hermès. Available in Fauve Barenia leather paired with 38mm and 42mm stainless steel cases, and in Indigo Swift leather for the 42mm stainless steel case.

* Single Tour Deployment Buckle - Available in Fauve Barenia leather and ebony Barenia leather, each paired with a 42mm stainless steel case.

Apple Watch Hermès Series 3 will be available to order online in France beginning Friday, with availability beginning September 22 in Australia, Canada, China, France, Germany, Japan, Switzerland, the UK and the US. Prices range from $1,149 to $1,399.

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Tiffany’s New Metro Watch For Women

September 17, 2017, 3:44 am

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The Tiffany & Co. new Metro Watch combines the luxury retailer’s skill at using diamonds with traditional Swiss craftsmanship. Each piece features a round brilliant diamond crown that is assigned an individual serial number, making each watch personal to the wearer, the company says. In addition, for most models are topped with diamonds in various designs.

The company says the watch’s clean, fluid lines evoke the pace and energy of New York City, where Tiffany is headquartered. The 28mm curved stainless case comes in either stainless steel or 18k rose gold. The dials come in several styles, including an “ice blue,” a darker blue, burgundy, white or pink lacquer, all with flinqué finishes. Several models come with a 60 seconds subdial. The curved motif continues with the bracelets, which are available in alligator leather in a variety of colors and stainless steel. 

The watches are powered with either a Rhonda quartz movement or a Soprod automatic movement.

“Our horological history began in Geneva, Switzerland in 1847, and today we continue this tradition of craftsmanship by introducing the Tiffany Metro timepiece—its beauty lies in the superlative pedigree of Tiffany diamonds,” said Nicola Andreatta, vice president and general manager of Tiffany& Co. Swiss Watches. 

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Roger Farah Named New Tiffany Chairman

September 21, 2017, 2:54 pm

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Tiffany & Co. said Thursday that its company's board of directors has elected Roger Farah as its chairman, effective October 2. Farah, 64, joined Tiffany's Board in March 2017. He has served in leadership roles at Ralph Lauren Corporation, Venator Group, Inc., R.H. Macy & Co., Inc. and Federated Merchandising Services.

He most recently served leadership roles with Tory Burch. First as co-CEO and director of Tory Burch from September 2014 till March 2017 and then as executive director in advisory role since March when he joined Tiffany’s board

He will replace Michael J. Kowalski who has held multiple leadership roles for a number of years at Tiffany. He has been the board chairman since 2002 and has served on Tiffany’s board since 1995. He will remain on the board after the change.

In addition, Kowalski, who was Tiffany’s CEO from 1999 until his retirement in March 2015, and served as interim CEO since February 2017, will relinquish that title when the company's newly appointed CEO, Alessandro Bogliolo, joins the company in October.

“Roger has significant experience as a leader in the luxury retail industry, and I and my fellow directors value tremendously his expertise and insight which have been apparent during his time on the board,” Kowalski said in a statement. “With the appointment of Alessandro as our new CEO, and under Roger’s leadership on the board, I believe we are well positioned to execute on strategies to drive comparable store sales growth and stronger earnings growth in the longer-term.” 

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Alrosa Unearths 27-Carat Pink Diamond

September 22, 2017, 6:28 am

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Alrosa said Thursday that one of its subsidiaries unearthed a pink rough diamond weighing 27.85 carats. If the Russian mining giant decides to cut the stone, it has the potential to be the most expensive polished diamond in its history.

The rough diamond has dimensions of 22.47 mm x 15.69 mm x 10.9 mm, Alrosa said in statement Thursday. The pink stone is of gem-quality and almost free of inclusions.

The diamond was unearthed by Almazy Anabara, an Alrosa subsidiary with a diamond mining operation in Republic of Sakha (Yakutia) in northeast Russia. It is by far the largest pink diamond Alrosa ever mined—with the previous largest pink rough being 3.86 carats, found in 2012. Apart from this stone, for the past eight years, Alrosa recovered only 3 pink diamonds weighing more than 2 carats. Alrosa said its mining operations discover colored diamonds weighing more than 10 carats about once a year. 

Alrosa, a rough diamond mining operation, has been increasing investment in its polishing division. The company said it is deciding whether to sell it as a rough or to cut it and polish it themselves. 

“If the company decided to cut it, it would become the most expensive diamond in the entire history of Alrosa,” said Evgeny Agureev, head of United Selling Organization of Alrosa. 

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Laurence Graff Buys The Lesedi La Rona In Deal Of The Century

September 26, 2017, 4:35 am

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Graff Diamonds has acquired the 1,109-carat Lesedi La Rona rough diamond in a deal valued at $53 million. It is the world’s largest gem-quality rough diamond to be discovered in more than a century and the largest rough diamond in existence today.

It also may be one of Laurence Graff’s greatest deals in a long career of exceptional negotiations for some of the world’s most valuable and important diamonds. He may have shaved $17 million from its original asking price.

According to a statement from Graff Diamonds, this deal ended in a handshake with William Lamb, CEO, president and director of Canadian mining company Lucara Diamond Corp., which discovered the gem at its Karowe mine in Botswana in November 2015.

Lamb originally tried to sell the diamond in a standalone public auction at Sotheby’s London on June 2016, a very unusual way to sell a rough diamond, which is normally sold privately to dealers who then cut and polished the rough into a finished gem. It had an estimate of more than $70 million. However, it failed to meet its reserve price. The bidding stalled at $61 million.

In the end there are very few people in the world able to buy such a gem and even fewer with the ability to cut it. The top name on both lists is Graff.

“We are thrilled and honored to become the new custodians of this incredible diamond,” Laurence Graff said in a statement. “The stone will tell us its story, it will dictate how it wants to be cut, and we will take the utmost care to respect its exceptional properties. This is a momentous day in my career, and I am privileged to be given the opportunity to honor the magnificent natural beauty of the Lesedi La Rona.”

The Lesedi La Rona was discovered at the Lucara Karowe mine in north-central Botswana. Its size is exceeded only by the legendary Cullinan Diamond, mined in South Africa in 1905. The 3,016.75-carat diamond produced nine major diamonds that are part of the historic Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom, including the Great Star of Africa—considered to be the largest top-quality polished diamond in existence, weighing 530.20 carats.

In addition to its size, the Gemological Institute of America reports that the Lesedi La Rona , which means “our light” in Botswana's Tswana language, possesses exceptional quality and transparency, according to Graff Diamonds statement.

The acquisition follows Graff’s purchase earlier this year of a 373-carat rough diamond that was originally part of the Lesedi La Rona rough, marking a reunion of the two stones.

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Last Chance To Register For The Portland Jewelry Symposium

September 27, 2017, 4:34 pm

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The 2016 Portland Jewelry Symposium, networking prior to the keynote presentation

The Portland Jewelry Symposium is celebrating its 10th Anniversary and it isn’t looking back on its success. Instead, the forum’s theme this year is “Future Think: Innovate, Create, Thrive.” 

Teresa Frye, founder of the Portland Jewelry Symposium and owner and president of TechForm Advanced Casting Technology, has created the theme and planned the two-day program to discuss new technologies and artistic trends, and how to stay current in a rapidly changing industry. 

The symposium will be held October 1 and 2 at the Sentinel Hotel in downtown Portland, Ore. It is designed to benefit custom jewelers, designers and retailers. The registration deadline is here so please follow this link to register. 

Presentations will include the following: 

Peggy Jo Donahue, who assembled a panel discussion on “Promoting Custom Design on Social Networks,” which includes award winning designers Calla Gold and Lisa Krikawa.

Jennifer Caban from Olympus IMS will discuss using “XRF Technology to Identify Precious Metals” at the bench and in the retail environment.

Kevin Abernathy will speak about evolving “Trends in Digital Manufacturing.”

The symposium continues to take on social and environmental responsibility. This year, Monica Stephenson of ANZA Gems will speak on “Taking the First Step to a Responsible Future.”

This year symposium also includes a session on “Succession Planning and Exit Strategies” by Becka Johnson Kibby from The Edge Retail Academy.

Symposium registration includes the Keynote address and networking dinners. Lunch and refreshments during the full-day session on October 2. Additional tickets for dinner guests are also available for purchase.

To register, please visit the Portland Jewelry Symposium website.

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Christie’s To Sell The De Grisogono 163-Carat D-Flawless Diamond

September 29, 2017, 6:39 am

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The De Grisogono diamond suspended from an asymmetric necklace with a trailing on the left side of 18 emerald-cut diamonds and to the right two rows of pear-shaped emeralds

Christie’s is selling the largest D-color flawless diamond to ever appear at auction, a 163.41-carat emerald-cut stone owned by the Geneva-based luxury jeweler, De Grisogono.

It will be a highlight of Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale in Geneva to be held November 14 at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. The diamond is currently on a world tour.

The diamond was cut from a 404-carat rough discovered in February 2016 in the Lulo mine in Angola. Given the name, “4 de Fevereiro,” it is the 27th biggest rough white diamond ever discovered and the largest in Angola. Fawaz Gruosi, founder of De Grisogono, purchased the rough diamond. He had it analyzed in Antwerp and cut in New York, where a team of 10 diamond-cutting specialists spent 11 months mapping, plotting, cleaving, laser-cutting and polishing the rough into the gem.

The De Grisogono 163.41-carat diamond, the largest D-color flawless diamond ever come at auction

The diamond is the centerpiece of an asymmetric necklace with a trailing on the left side of 18 emerald-cut diamonds and to the right two rows of pear-shaped emeralds, offering a contrasting appearance. No gold is visible between the emeralds as the gems are perfectly matched and the metal is darkened to create the chiaroscuro effect that is characteristic of De Grisogono jewels. The prongs holding in place the 163.41-carat diamond disappear under four baguette-cut diamonds creating an effect of dazzling brilliance. The reverse side of the gold basket is engraved with the diamond’s weight and set with more diamonds.

It took 14 craftsmen more than 1,700 hours to create the necklace.

Rahul Kadakia, international head of Christie’s Jewels said the “emerald and diamond necklace propels De Grisogono into a class of their own.”

The 404-carat rough diamond, "4 de Fevereiro," that created the 163.41-carat D-color flawless diamond that will be sold at Christie's

This diamond necklace marks the first jewel in a partnership between the auction house and the high jeweler in which they “will bring to auction the most exquisite diamonds ever offered to the market.”

The schedule for the worldwide tour is as follows:

Christie’s Hong Kong
September 28 – October 1
22nd Floor, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road Central

Christie’s London
October 4 -7.
8, King Street, SW1Y 6QT London

Christie’s and De Grisogono in Dubai
October 17 - 19

Christie’s New York
November 3 - 6
Rockefeller Centre, 20 Rockefeller Plaza

Christie’s Geneva
November 9 - 14
Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, Quai des Bergues 33 

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Robert Procop Unveils 888-Carat Angelina Jolie Star Sapphire

October 5, 2017, 8:30 am

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Robert Procop—gem expert, private jeweler and jewelry designer—will unveil an 888.88-carat black star sapphire at Saks Fifth Avenue at South Coast Plaza Thursday (today). It will appear at the store until the end of October before going on the road.

The gem is named the “Star of Jolie,” after the Angelina Jolie, the internationally known actress, filmmaker and humanitarian. It is the featured pendant on a necklace comprised of 70 black star sapphires, totaling an additional 104.42 carats. The entire piece is set in 18k rose gold and has a retail price of $5 million.

Procop says the pear-shaped, double-cabochon cut star sapphire is the world’s largest certified by the Gemological Institute of America.

The sapphire has not been treated by heat or other methods, according to the GIA report. Its transparency is semi-translucent to opaque. There is no indication on the report about it being the largest star sapphire graded by the organization. Its geographic origins are unknown.

Jolie and Procop have been long-time collaborators in a collection of jewels called “The Style of Jolie” in which proceeds are used to promote education and establish schools in conflict-affected countries through the Education Partnership for Children of Conflict, which builds schools for children around the world. The first of the schools opened for girls in April 2013 in Afghanistan outside Kabul. It educates from 200 to 300 girls.

In addition to the unveiling of the Star of Jolie, Procop will also debut new pieces from his collection with Jolie, as well as pieces from his Exceptional Jewels collection. A portion of the sales from this event will be donated to charity.

After Southern California, the piece will travel to Saks Fifth Avenue stores in both Bal Harbour, Fla., and Palm Desert, Calif., in November. The tour will conclude at the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C., in December.

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37-Carat 'Raj Pink' Diamond Could Fetch $30 Million

October 11, 2017, 7:12 am

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The 37.30-carat "Raj Pink" diamond will be the top lot at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale on November 15 with a hefty estimate of $20 million - $30 million.

“The discovery of any pink diamond is exceptional, but The Raj Pink’s remarkable size and intensity of color places it in the rarefied company of the most important pink diamonds known,” said David Bennett, worldwide chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division. 

According to Sotheby’s, the rough diamond that yielded The Raj Pink was studied for over a year after its discovery in 2015. It was then entrusted to a master cutter, who crafted it into a cushion-modified brilliant cut.

The diamond was named by its current owner, who requested anonymity. Its meaning is based on the Sanskrit word for king. 

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), in its report characterized the diamond as an “astonishing stone,” describing its hue as “a very bright and ravishing fancy intense pink color,” adding, “For a diamond to display strong, unmodified pink color like that observed in The Raj Pink is rare, particularly at so considerable a weight.”

The discovery of a gem-quality pink diamond of any size is an extremely rare occurrence. Of all diamonds submitted to the GIA each year, fewer than 0.02% are predominantly pink, Sotheby’s said.

The current record holder for a fancy intense pink diamond is the 24.78-carat “Graff Pink,” which sold for more than $46.1 million at Sotheby’s Geneva, 2010.

“Only on the rarest occasions do diamonds with vibrant, shocking color like the Raj Pink’s emerge,” GIA said. “Only the most privileged and knowledgeable in the industry know of their existence. With an unmodified Fancy Intense Pink hue, substantial size and desirable clarity, the Raj Pink is certainly one of those gems that only few may have the honor of experiencing.” 

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Portland Jewelry Symposium Focuses On 3D Printing And Other Technologies

October 26, 2017, 6:54 am

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Peter Smith delivering the keynote at the Portland Jewelry Symposium. Photo by Lena Knofler

The Portland Jewelry Symposium celebrated its 10th anniversary but there was no time to wax nostalgic at the most recent gathering. Instead it was time to focus on the future of the industry. This future consists of the use of technology in general and more specifically the continued growth of 3D printing technology.

“It just seemed like so much evolution was going on with technology we should focus on the future so everybody can sit here for a day-and-a-half and think about the next 10, 15 years for their businesses,” said Teresa Frye, who founded the symposium.

Teresa Frye, founder of the Portland Jewelry Symposium. Photo by Lena Knofler

Frye, owner and president of TechForm Advanced Casting Technology, a platinum manufacturer, said her business is 95% digital. She is dependent on designers who create the pieces that she manufactures. Because of this she said she is most interested in how designers will adapt to new ways of creating jewelry without losing the human aspect of the artistry and design.

“It’s so easy to look at the robots and say that has nothing to do with my craft, it’s so cold and sterile. Yet we can’t avoid it,” she said. “It’s crucial to our survival that we pick the elements of technology that are going to help us to not just survive but to stay at the top of our game and I think that’s the challenge for the industry because we really are so traditional.”

One of several 3D printers on display. Photo by Lena Knofler

She says there is no one answer, designers, manufacturers and retailers will have to adapt various elements of technology in ways that will enhance their businesses.

“Our customers value the handcrafted nature of what we do, yet we’re going to have to give up some of that. All the top brands know that they have to select the elements of technology that are going to help them to remain competitive yet they can’t lose their soul in the process. And I still don’t know the answer because it really lies with the designers as far as the aesthetics of what we’re creating and how to not lose that in the process.”

This year’s symposium, with the theme “Future Think: Innovate, Create, Thrive,” was held October 1 and 2 at the Sentinel Hotel in downtown Portland, Ore. Approximately 150 independent retailers, manufacturers, designers and others in the jewelry trade attended this year. The attendance was a new record for the symposium. In addition, it has grown from a regional gathering in the northwest United States to a national event. Frye said one of her challenges is to manage this growth while maintaining its intimate, informal and friendly atmosphere.

3D Printer models. Photo by Lena Knofler

3D printing was the hot topic this year and they were the top item on display among the vendors at the event. The technology is being used regularly to produce jewelry molds that are used for casting. Costs of the machines have dropped significantly over the years and they are smaller and easier to use. Their easy entry point has opened up jewelry design to a broader group of people. For example, retailers can now create custom designs for their customers with greater efficiency and speed.

The vast majority of 3D printing is being used to create resin models for casting. However, the newest generation of 3D printers can now print jewelry using precious metals. As one vendor told me the process hasn’t been perfected yet and isn’t a viable replacement for current uses.

But it doesn’t take an expert to know that the technology will get better. Frye, who is well adept with technology and how it is used in manufacturing environments, sees this as well. She says it brings questions on how it may change jewelry design.

“I’m thinking about this next evolution of 3D printing,” Frye said. “Is jewelry going to start looking all the same because we’re letting the technology dictate the designs? That’s the challenge for the industry and I fully expect there will be many designers who are going to overcome that challenge but there may be inherent limitations with the technology. There is probably going to be a multitude of solutions and what we’re trying to do here is to get that conversation going. We have the technology experts here talking about what’s out there and then we have the networking with real world jewelers who will challenge them. That’s when you have the really interesting conversations.”

Kevin Abernathy discussing manufacturing technology. Photo by Lena Knofler

Kevin Abernathy of BIS Ventures, in his presentation on trends in digital manufacturing, said that 3D metal printing is the next big thing and that artificial intelligence, robotics, cloud computing and other technologies are becoming commonplace in the world’s largest companies and will soon be commonplace in the jewelry industry.

Abernathy, whose company consults with jewelry manufacturers on their automated and digital technology, said he was an early adapter of 3D printing and computer numerical control (computer automation of machine tools). Because of these technologies, he said “vendors can help you navigate the minutiae of the design in your mind.”

Bench demonstrations. Photo by Lena Knofler

Abernathy assured those in the audience that although these technologies will continue to grow, there is no need to be fearful of losing your job.

“At the end of the day it takes a human, an artist putting that love into a piece of jewelry,” he said. “No machine will ever replace that and no robot will ever do it.”

The keynote address for the symposium was delivered by Peter Smith, jewelry industry consultant and author, who discussed the future of traditional jewelry retail, which he says, is actually brighter than it is being portrayed.

“This fear that somehow we’re losing business to online is just not based in reality,” he told the audience.

Kristi Broussard of Stuller demonstrates a detector for lab-grown diamonds. Photo by Lena Knofler

Instead, he argues what is happening is a transformation of the retail business combining the bricks-and-mortar experience with the convenience of eCommerce. He stresses that it’s retail stores that will continue to drive the business.

In most cases, he says, retailers who are losing customers are doing so because they are not providing a high-quality store experience. He said the landscape of the retail industry can be broken down to convenience and price sensitive stores, such as Costco and Wal-Mart; and stores that focus on experience, such as Apple, Starbucks and Tiffany & Co.

Jewelry retailers cannot compete with price so they have to create stores that provide a better experience for their customers. It includes reevaluating everything about the store, from the lighting to the music to the scent (which can be purchased) in a way that creates a story about the retail experience they want to deliver.

Chris Ploof of Laminated Metals describing his products. Photo by Lena Knofler

Smith also encouraged retailers to streamline their product offerings and focus on what sells and to build eCommerce websites in order to create a well-rounded retail experience.

Sherris Cottier Shank, an award-winning gem artist and master gem carver, had a bit of warning for those jumping into technology head first. She challenged retailers and others in the jewelry industry to think “beyond mainstream” when specifying jewelry.

“All of this automation is really great but remember there are other people out there beyond mainstream,” she said. “Take the time to talk to them and find out what they like.”

Shank, calls herself an “odd duck” in the jewelry industry because what she likes in gemstone jewelry is rarely displayed in stores.

“If I were to walk in most jewelry stores today I would turn around and leave. Most jewelry stores would have nothing that interests me,” she said. “There are others like me and I know this because they contact me out of the blue.”

She began her career as a bench jeweler but discovered that she loved the art of gemstone carving. A self-described “girl who plays around in the dirt,” she sometimes goes to the mines to select her gems. She said dealers have mixed reactions when selling to her.

“I’m very careful when I select rough and the sellers either love me or hate me. They usually give me a pad and let me select my own (stones),” she said.

Shank, known for her signature carvings, has received numerous awards. Several of her pieces are on display in museums, including National Gem & Mineral Collections of the Smithsonian and the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. She also works with exceptional jewelry artists who mount her gems into jewels.

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Cartier Unveils ‘Precious Garage’ Installation To Introduce Juste un Clou And Écrou de Cartier II Jewels For Fashion Week

September 10, 2018, 5:04 pm

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A gold-painted wire-frame car greeted those entering the Cartier Fifth Avenue Mansion Thursday night. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Cartier on Thursday unveiled its “Precious Garage” concept just in time for New York Fashion Week, turning its iconic Fifth Avenue Mansion into a luxurious garage filled with glittering, glowing car parts.

Oil cans, oil drums and tire rims were scattered throughout the Cartier Fifth Avenue Mansion. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The concept was designed for Cartier by Desi Santiago, the New York-based artist who is known for bridging art and fashion. It was used to introduce the newest introductions of the Juste un Clou and Écrou de Cartier jewelry collections.

The stage is set for Swedish singer-songwriter, Lykke Li. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The Juste un Clou is based on a nail and the Écrou de Cartier uses a lug nut motif. Juste un Clou is one of Cartier’s most popular jewelry collections created in the 1970s by Aldo Cipullo for Cartier New York. This year, Cartier focused on slimmer versions of bracelets and rings. The bracelets are available in 18k rose and yellow gold for $3,050 and the rings in 18k white, rose and yellow gold from $1,120 to $1,200.

A futuristic looking car factory with robotic holding jewelry displays. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The Écrou de Cartier collection, introduced in 2017, uses a hexagonal hardware nut to create a complimentary line of jewelry for the Juste un Clou. The Écrou de Cartier II pieces introduced at the event are an 18k yellow gold bracelet for $6,600 and 18k white, yellow and rose gold ring from $2,300 to $2,470.

The newest version of the Juste un Clou bracelet. Photo credit: Cartier

Swedish singer-songwriter Lykke Li performed on a stage backed by car parts. Guests included Zoe Saldana, Armie Hammer, Justin Theroux, Lily Collins, Troye Sivan, Sofia Coppola Suki Waterhouse, Taylor Hill, Charlotte Lawrence, Athena Calderone, Kat Graham, Marcel Floruss, May Kwok, Mia Moretti, Molly Sims, Moti Ankari, Nicky Hilton Rothschild, Peter Brandt Jr. and Rachel Zoe.

The newest version of the Écrou de Cartier II bracelet. Photo credit: Cartier

The Precious Garage installation at the Cartier Fifth Avenue Mansion, 653 Fifth Ave., will be open to the public till September 26. Hours are Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. till 7 p.m., and Sunday, noon till 6 p.m.

A tool cabinet filled with chocolate wrenches and nails and cookies in the shape of lug nuts. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

Following the opening event Thursday, a pop up version of the Precious Garage experience gets packed into a gold-painted trailer and goes on the road, first to Nashville, Sept. 14 – 16, and then Seattle, Sept. 28 – 30.

Some of the crowd at the event. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

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A Busy Beginning for the Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

September 12, 2018, 11:49 pm

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The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair is off the good start, according to nearly everyone I spoke with Thursday.

Considered to be the world’s largest jewelry trade fair, the show opened Wednesday for gems, diamonds, pearls and other jewelry making materials at the AsiaWorld-Expo. The fair’s second location will open Friday for finished jewelry, from the most basic to the most luxurious, at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre.

The fair is also being held as Super Typhoon Mangkhut is bearing down on the city. It’s too early to tell whether Hong Kong will take a direct hit but so far experts say that the storm could be the equivalent of a Category 5 hurricane.

But for now it’s all business at the AsiaWorld Expo where the aisles and exhibiting booths are bustling.

“It was very busy yesterday and it remains bust today,” said Gary Roskin, executive director of the International Colored Gemstone Association.  

This statement was echoed among the colored gem and diamond dealers I spoke with. Most spoke on the condition of anonymity. “I’m very happy so far,” said an opal dealer. Yesterday, in particular was very busy.”

On Thursday, as the day wore on more buyers came streaming into the halls. From diamonds to colored gems to pearls booths were jammed with buyers.

At Erica Courtney’s booth, one representative said there’s been a lot of interest the first two days.

The fair’s overwhelmingly good feeling is coming amid a report by the De Beers Group stating that diamond jewelry demand reached a new record high of $82 billion, led by Millennial consumers, which accounted for two-thirds of global diamond jewelry sales in 2017.

The De Beers Diamond Insight Report also notes that Millennials, those people currently aged 21 to 39, represent 29 percent of the world’s population and are the current largest group of diamond consumers. They accounted for almost 60 percent of diamond jewelry demand in the US in 2017 and nearly 80 per cent in China.

Paraiba, Emeralds, Rubies, Opals Among The Highlights Of Colored Gems Pavilion at the September Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

September 13, 2018, 1:17 am

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A suite of Paraiba from Erica Courtney. Photo: Anthony DeMarco

The largest September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair in the show’s 36-year history has begun and one of the biggest draws at AsiaWorld-Expo is colored gemstones.

It is one of the world's largest collections of colored gems under one roof anywhere in the world and the number and variety of gems available is unmatched. 

An Opal originally from Cartier being offered by Erica Courtney. Photo: Anthony DeMarco

The Courtney Collection, an Erica Courtney company, is giving professional buyers a glimpse of its African Paraiba tourmaline suites at the September Fair.

“We are exhibiting beautiful gemstones of exceptionally large sizes from a private collection, showing large single gems as well as curated suites, including many extraordinary specimens of African paraiba tourmaline,” a spokesperson for the US-based company said. “We wish to reach gemstone collectors and gemstone vendors who appreciate exceptionally large gemstones.”

Zambian emeralds from Gemfields. Photo: Anthony DeMarco

An award-winning jewelry designer, Erica Courtney is known for her use of fine gemstones in her "Drop Dead Gorgeous" jewelry collection. Her love of extraordinary gemstones led her to partner with a private collector who has amassed a collection of large gems, which will be presented at the September Fair.

The paraiba set is certainly one of the highlights in the main gemstone pavilion, The sea-blue gems are being sold as a set with a full range of size and shape that would make an exceptional suite of jewels.

Not to be outdone, in the neighboring "Fine Gem Pavilion," Paul Wild has on display special paraibas from Africa and Brazil, the origin of paraibas, and one of the rarest gems, since all of the original material has been mined.

The mining and marketing company, Gemfields, was showcasing a number of their Zambian emeralds and Mozambique rubies in a stand by one of the entrances.

In addition, number of opal dealers were displaying their unique gems with lustrous colors and sparkling patterns. Opals are one of the least understood of all gemstones. They are classified as “phenomenal gems,” a group of gemstones that have various optical properties, such as gems that produce a “star” or “cat’s eye” effect. For opals it’s the play of color that exhibits an iridescent effect, appearing to gradually change color as the angle of view or the angle of illumination changes.

Pearls, Pearls and More Pearls At September Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

September 13, 2018, 6:05 pm

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Hall 1 in the vast AsiaWorld-Expo is separate from the other halls. However, buyers had no trouble finding it during the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. 

That's because inside there are pearls as far as the eye can see. They come in every size and every shape imaginable. From blinding white pearls to Tahitians with a lustrous glow to pearls in every color imaginable. 

In addition, this section of the fair showcased coral and other fruits of the sea. All totaled there are approximately 650 suppliers of loose pearls and finished pearl jewelry, including dealers from Australia, China, French Polynesia, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Japan, Myanmar, U.K. and the U.S, according to UBM Asia, which hosts the show.

Buyers responded well, crowding the aisles the first two days of the trade fair and pressing up against exhibition booths exhibition booths eyeing the loose pearls as close possible to determine quality. 

“The September Fair is unparalleled in terms of the breadth, depth and quality of its pearl exhibits,” says Celine Lau, director of Jewellery Fairs at UBM Asia. “If you’re looking for top-quality Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian and freshwater pearls – from rare single gems, matched pairs and strands to exclusive pearl suites and jewelry collections in fresh and modern designs – you will find them all at the show.”

The Japan Pearl Pavilion, one of the busiest and vibrant sections on the AWE show floor, features 108 loose pearl dealers, says Yoshihiro Shimizu, chairman of the Japan Pearl Exporters’ Association. 

"We will have a special display of gem-quality pearls, including exceptionally rare strands of Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian pearls" Shimizu said. It’s going to be a very busy and exciting show for Japan’s top pearl specialists and hopefully, it’ll be an extremely informative, enriching and productive one for trade show visitors, too.”

Tahitian pearls and China pearls are also well represented at the fair.

"In terms of demand, high-quality round Tahitian pearls are currently the hottest items in the market, said Ida Wong, chairman of the Tahitian Pearl Association Hong Kong. "TPAHK’s strategic promotion of other fancy shapes – drop, circled, button, oval, baroque and keshi, among others – highlighting asymmetric perfection is anticipated to help boost the demand for other pearl shapes." 

The September Hong Kong Fair Is Now All About the Jewelry

September 13, 2018, 11:31 pm

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The finished jewelry section of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair (HKCEC) opened Friday with the ceremonial dragon dance offering good luck to all exhibitors and buyers. 

The fair officially opened two days earlier at the AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE) convention center near the Hong Kong international airport with companies that specialize in diamonds, gems, pearls and other jewelry making materials. However, the jewelry portion of the fair, which displays products ranging from the most basic to the most exclusive, marks the true start of the annual event. 

It is one of the world’s largest jewelry and gem fairs, if not the largest, and with the continued economic growth in China and other Asian markets, it is one of the most important events on the jewelry industry calendar. UBM Asia, which owns and operates the trade show, said in terms of exhibitors, 3,700, it is the largest in the fair’s history. Whether that results in more buyers attending will be known in the next few days. 

It is also the most international of all jewelry shows. At any given moment somewhere on the 135,000 square meters of exhibit space you will see Japanese pearl jewelry exhibitors doing business with retailers from Dubai, Chinese jewelry manufacturers selling to South American distributors and Polish amber jewelers selling to the Chinese market. In addition, it’s a true business show. There are few new product launches or big corporate events. All of the action is done at the booths.

The day at HKCEC began with a large number of people in registration lines and even larger numbers of buyers waiting in long lines for the doors to fair to open. A large crowd also gathered around the dragon dance performers just as the doors opened to the fair. 

While all of the trading is going on, Super Typhoon Mangkhut is barreling towards Hong Kong, described as a Signal 9 storm, among the strongest on the 10-plus point scale. If it does hit Hong Kong and remains a Category 9, the show will at least temporarily close Sunday. 

The materials portion of the show at the AWE will end Sunday and the finished jewelry at the HKCEC will run till Tuesday.

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Jewelry Industry Officials Discuss Change At Hong Kong Jewelry Fair

September 14, 2018, 12:38 am

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As the expression goes, change is the only constant in life and the jewelry industry is going through monumental change. Some of it even hits close to home. This was the dominant theme at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair press conference.

The first change is UBM Asia, the largest operator of jewelry trade fairs in the world, has merged with Informa, a London-based company that bills itself as an international business-to-business information services group. 

The second change is that Wolfram Diener, senior VP of UBM Asia and a big presence at the Hong Kong jewelry fairs, will be leaving. After 22 years of living in Hong Kong and China, the German native has accepted a new job as managing director of Messe Düsseldorf. 

Diener, 57, led his last press conference at the Hong Kong jewelry fair calling it his “final curtain” and introducing his replacement, his close friend, David Bondi, who was in attendance. 

In the rest of his presentation he noted that Thailand, with 400 exhibitors of finished jewels, gemstones and supplies, is the largest contingent at the fair, outside of exhibitors from Hong Kong and China. He added there is strong participation from Japan and an increase in exhibitors from Turkey.

Eight leaders of trade associations from Hong Kong and China gave a review of business in the first nine months of the year and what they expect by the end of 2018. Most of the speakers reported strong turnover but also expressed concern due to U.S. and China trade tensions and a strengthening U.S. dollar. 

Lawrence Ma, founding president of the Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, said diamond sales increased by 8.7 percent for the first half of the year. However, he added, that he is “cautiously optimistic when it comes to business at the September Hong Kong jewelry fair. “I expect a good show but not necessarily a great show.”

Ken Lo, chairman of the Hong Kong Jewellery and Jade Manufacturers Association, said his organization saw double digit sales gains for the first half of the year but agreed with Ma that events outside their influence could dampen sales for the rest of the year. “I’m very cautious at the year’s end about what’s going to happen,” he said. 

Most of the other speakers talked about the challenges being posed by Millennial and Generation Y consumers and how they could disrupt jewelry distribution channels in China. 

The press conference itself, an annual event, underwent some change as well. In the past all of the officials sat in front and addressed the media sitting in chairs. This year they added tables and provided lunch for those in attendance. 

Change comes in many forms.

Exceptional Antique and Vintage Jewels at the September Hong Kong Fair

September 16, 2018, 3:21 am

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An emerald and diamond tiara by Bijan & Co. It was in the antique and vintage jewelry area but it is a new piece. Photo Credit: Anthony DeMarco

Tucked in a corner of the Hong Kong Convention & Exposition Center are antique and vintage jewels. It doesn’t get the press or attention that the large manufacturers and branded designers receive but it is an essential part of the September Hong fair. The space itself is easy to miss but those attracted to these special pieces and art objects were there in strong numbers. 

The selection is quite diverse and the quality overall is exceptional. Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany and Bulgari were well represented; as were many famous individual designers such as Verdura, Schlumberger and Belperron. The section overall was very crowded with buyers on the opening day and upon returning for the second day it was one of the busiest areas of the show. 

Several Bulgari pieces being offered by Dover Jewelry & Diamonds. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The Aaron Faber booth in particular was filled with people throughout the first two days of the finished jewelry portion of the fair at HKCEC. The New York-based dealers specialize in artist-made, classic and estate jewelry, and vintage timepieces. When I asked the owners Ed Faber and Patricia Kiley Faber said people are interested in the stories they provide behind the pieces they sell. In other words plenty of people were listening to the stories but not necessarily buying the pieces. However, there were certainly buyers among those who were listening to the stories. They’ve been exhibiting at the September Hong Kong fair for several years. 

Meanwhile, Moe Haghighi of Dover Jewelry & Diamonds, Miami, has been exhibiting at the fair for three years and he’s happy overall with the amount of business he does and the quality of buyers. 

Not all of the jewels were vintage or antique. Some of these antique and vintage jewelry dealers also design and craft jewels. In one display case there was an emerald and diamond tiara that was certainly at home with the jewels from the past. Only it was a new piece from Bijan & Co., based in New York. It was part of a set of one-of-kind pieces.

When Super Typhoon Mangkhut Became A Real Threat

September 16, 2018, 3:39 am

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Buyers in the jade the day before the typhoon. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

For the first three days at the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, the Super Typhoon Mangkhut was an afterthought. However, on Saturday the storm became real. 

On the fourth day of the materials portion of the fair at the AsiaWorld-Expo and the second day of the finished jewelry portion of the fair at the Hong Kong Convention & Expo Centre, the hurricane and the impending disruption was the main topic of discussion. It is affecting business. Many exhibitors said that buyers canceled appointments Saturday so they can leave before the airport shut down Sunday. 


Exhibitors of luxury jewels most likely saw the largest number of cancellations but it wasn't a total loss, exhibitors said.

“People I expected did not show up but it’s okay,” said an exhibitor in the Fine Design Pavilion. A diamond jewelry exhibitor in the Premier Pavilion said business was good Saturday and the number of people around the booth proved his point. 

Certainly the Hong Kong and Chinese buyers were not overly influenced by the typhoon. These type of storms are a way of life for coastal residences in China and its autonomous regions, such as Macau, Hong Kong and Taiwan. 

The aisles were certainly not as busy as normal but there were still plenty of people milling through the various themed halls throughout the HKCEC and they were buying. I visited the entire show and while exhibitors were a bit gloomy, they understood the circumstances were unique. 

The busiest halls housed the Antique & Vintage jewels, jewelry from Hong Kong and China manufacturers, the CORE section and wedding jewelry section. Several of the designer areas and silver jewelry sections also attracted buyers. The Thailand and Japan pavilions were the largest exhibiting groups outside of those from Hong Kong and China and they remained busy. 

Luxury Jewels Were In Abundance at the September Hong Kong Fair

September 16, 2018, 2:33 pm

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A buyer inspects a diamond paved necklace from Studio Reves. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Despite much of the focus being placed on large manufacturers and retailers, luxury jewels are a significant part of the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Most of the contemporary luxury jewelers and manufacturers (outside of Hong Kong and China manufacturers who have their own pavilions) are located next to each other in the Fine Design Pavilion and the International Premiere Pavilion.

Located at the Grand Hall of the Hong Kong Convention & Exposition Centre, the Fine Design Pavilion showcases high jewelry from more than 70 internationally known jewelers and dealers of estate jewels and watches. The high-ceiling and luxurious environment of the Grand Hall is an appropriate setting for these designers who feature rare diamonds, gemstones and pearls in their limited-edition creations. 

A conch pearl necklace by Saboo. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Jewelry brand, Saboo, is one of the regular exhibitors in this pavilion. Chand Bihari Saboo had some time to talk since several appointments were cancelled due to buyers trying to leave Hong Kong before Super Typhoon Mangkhut arrived. The Hong Kong-based company specializes in one-of-a-kind and limited edition jewels, made with exceptional diamond and colored gems. Many items are sold to Middle East royalty. The Hong Kong-based company started as a gem manufacturer so it is skilled at choosing stones. 

Saboo showed me a necklace and ring featuring conch pearls of different sizes and colors, and a flexible bracelet paved in rubies and diamonds. 

A ruby and diamond bracelet by Saboo. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

Despite the impending doom that the typhoon was going to bring there were still eager buyers. In the International Premier Pavilion, which houses about 60 luxury jewelry manufacturing brands, a salesperson at Studio Reves, a Mumbai based diamond jewelry manufacturer and DTC sightholder, was showing a large, well-constructed, flexible necklace paved with rose-cut diamonds. 

As we were talking a woman walked up and asked its cost, felt it, tried it on and soon they began negotiating a sale. 

2018 JNA Awards: Letitia Chow’s Influence And Leadership Saves the Day

September 23, 2018, 4:39 am

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Over the years whenever I tell people I was attending the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, the response was almost always the same. “Say hello to Letitia for me.”

2018 JNA Awards ceremony. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

The Letitia in question is Letitia Chow, director of Business Development, Jewellery Group of UBM Asia. She also holds the title of Jewellery Group director, Publishing Group at UBM Asia. 

A brief overview of her career goes like this: In 1983 Chow founded Jewellery News Asia magazine in partnership with veteran journalist, publisher and public relations consultant, Peter Brindisi. It grew to become the largest and most influential jewelry industry magazine in Asia. The magazine was purchased by UBM Asia and thus started her rise in the corporate structure of the trade fair company. 

Letitia Chow, UBM Asia director of Business Development - Jewelry Group, and Wendy Pang, senior marketing manager - Jewellery Fair, during the 2011 Seotember Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Photo credit: Anthony DeMarco

In the jewelry industry, particularly in Asia, the large jewelry, diamond and colored gem manufacturers, the largest mining companies and the largest jewelry retailers share much of the power. While Chow isn’t the most powerful presence, her influence ranges from the largest companies to those who work on the front lines. All of this influence was needed at this year’s JNA Awards ceremony, another jewelry industry endeavor at least co-founded by Chow. 

On September 16, Super Typhoon Mangkhut barreled through Hong Kong. The Hong Kong Observatory issued the Hurricane Signal No. 10, which is the highest level of tropical cyclone warning signals in Hong Kong, for 10 hours, making it a storm of historic proportions. It caused the postponement of the JNA Awards to the following day. When I saw pictures and video of the damage to the Intercontinental Hong Kong hotel, where the event is held, I thought the awards show would surely be cancelled. 

The Intercontinental Hong Kong hotel during Super Typhoon Mangkhut in a photo passed around social media.

The lobby of the Intercontinental Hong Kong the following night for the JNA Awards.

I was wrong and it was all because of Chow, her dedicated staff and the staff at the Intercontinental Hong Kong. 

Not only were they battling a super typhoon and the damage it did to the hotel, but more than half of the invited guests had left prior to the storm, leaving the possibility of a half-filled venue. First, the hotel lobby and the large events room where the awards were presented showed no signs of damage. Second, the call went out and the industry responded as people came streaming into the main hall moments before the program started. The program itself went off without a hitch. 

Over the years Chow always had a calm almost Zen-like demeanor despite the chaos that naturally ensues during a live trade fair and awards program. However, this year, during her opening remarks, her voice broke at least twice when she thanked her staff and those who came to the event in the last minute. 

The main reason the people came, the staff did the work and show went on is the result of the Chow’s leadership and the good will she accumulated over the years.