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Bellusso Jewelers In Las Vegas Is The Only U.S. Store To Carry The $1.2 Million Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie Watch

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Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie

There will only be five Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie watches made this year. Two will be shipped in the U.S. One was sold in advance. This leaves Bellusso Jewelers as the only store in the U.S. that will carry this watch, with its estimated price tag of approximately $1.2 million.

Rick Moore, the manager of the luxury watch and jewelry boutique at The Palazzo Las Vegas resort, credits the strong relationship he has with the watch brand for beating out other high-end watch stores for the timepiece. 

“It’s really all about relationships,” he said. “Stephen Forsey (co-founder of the watch brand with Robert Greubel) has made many visits to Bellusso Jewelers and has also attended client dinners.”

Moore says he expects to receive the watch within the next two months. He’s contacted his VIP clients to let them know it’s available. If it isn’t sold prior to arrival he plans to show it in a dedicated display area for Greubel Forsey watches.

Bellusso Jewelers

Greubel Forsey says it is the most complex watch it has ever made—a big statement from a watch brand that specializes in highly complicated watches with multiple tourbillons and inclined balance wheels. Its creations have won some of the most prestigious awards in the watch world. 

Many of the company's ideas are tested in the company’s laboratory based on a proprietary development methodology called “Experimental Watch Technology” (EWT), including the Grande Sonnerie, which is the result of 11 years of research and development. The filing of two patents and the development of an acoustic resonance cage for a pure sound went into the creation of this timepiece with 11 security functions and at least 935 parts. 

It is equipped with a silent striking regulator and a 24-second tourbillon, all housed and well-balanced within a 43.5mm titanium case. It uses a manually wound movement but the striking mechanism has a self-winding system that provides about 20 hours of power reserve in Grande Sonnerie mode. It operates on three modes: Grande Sonnerie (which strikes at the hours and the quarters), Petite Sonnerie (which strikes at the full hours) and a silent mode. The sound is enhanced by an acoustic resonance cage made of titanium. 

The watch was unveiled in January at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). At the time the company said it would produce five to eight pieces per year. A company spokesperson told me more recently that only five will be made this year because of time it takes to produce each piece. 

“One watchmaker is responsible for assembling the piece and one watchmaker is responsible for polishing all of the parts,” the spokesperson said. “One piece takes about a year to produce.”

So you can buy it now or wait till next year. 

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The ‘Bao Đại” Watch Sets World Record For Any Rolex Sold At Auction

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Rolex Reference 6062 “Bao Đại” chronograph sold for $5.06 million, setting a world record for any watch sold at auction at the Philips and Bacs & Russo Geneva watch sale held Saturday. It shattered its presale estimate of $1.5 million.

The auction house said the sale followed an “eight minute bidding war,” among 10 bidders in the packed room at the Hôtel La Réserve where the auction was held and three telephone bidders. It was sold to a phone bidder who was not identified. 

Rolex Reference 6062 “Bao Đại”

The Bao Đại chronograph is among the “most valuable and desirable Rolexes” and the “most complicated and iconic Oyster-cased model” ever made by the Swiss watch manufacturer, the auction house said. In addition to its rarity, this particular model also has imperial provenance. 

This Rolex triple calendar with moonphase in yellow gold is one of three black dial models known to exist with diamond markers. Of the three, the Bao Dai, is the only one to feature diamond markers at the even hours. 

The watch belonged to Bảo Đại, the last emperor of Vietnam. According to family legend, Đại (the 13th and last emperor of the Nguyễn Dynasty) purchased the watch in Geneva in 1954, while he attended a conference seeking peace in Indochina.

The “Bao Dai” first appeared on the market in 2002 and was sold by Phillips for what was at the time the most expensive Rolex ever, according to the auction house. A private collector was winning bidder and it had stayed in private hands since.

Aurel Bacs, senior consultant at Phillips, sold the watch at that time. 

It also happens to be the second time within 12 months that a Rolex watch sold at auction by Philips and Bacs & Russo in Geneva set a world record.

“The combination of the iconic name Rolex, its extraordinary rarity and originality, crowned by the imperial first owner, this world auction record result is a testimony that Phillips’ stringent approach of bringing only the finest quality collectors watches to the market is the winning formula,” Aurel Bacs said.

The two-day auction at the Hôtel La Réserve is continuing today (Sunday). 

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‘Rockefeller Emerald’ Poised To Break Two World Auction Records

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It has size, provenance and "exceptional" quality. Now the 18.4-carat “Rockefeller Emerald” is poised to set new world auction records for an emerald jewel and an emerald per carat.

The Colombian emerald set on a diamond and platinum ring by famed New York jeweler, Raymond C. Yard, will be the highlight of Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels auction on June 20. The gem, which passed through several members of the Rockefeller family, has a presale estimate of $4 million - $6 million.

It seems fitting that the sale will be held at Christie’s Rockefeller Center headquarters, named after the same family that owned the emerald ring.

The current world record for an emerald jewel and an emerald per carat is believed to be held by a 23.46-carat emerald and diamond pendant brooch by Bulgari, formerly owned by Elizabeth Taylor. It sold for more than $6.5 million ($280,000 per carat) in December 2011 as part of the landmark auctions of “The Collection of Elizabeth Taylor” at Christie’s New York.

If the emerald sells for its $6 million high estimate it will easily beat the current per-carat record. If it exceeds its high estimate it would likely surpass the overall record.

The emerald of Colombian origin was purchased in 1930 by John D. Rockefeller, Jr., the only son among the five children of Standard Oil co-founder John D. Rockefeller. It was part of a brooch believed to have been created by Van Cleef & Arpels for his wife, Abby Aldrich Rockefeller.

When Aldrich Rockefeller passed away in 1948, the brooch was disassembled and the 18.4-carat emerald was given to his son, David Rockefeller. The son then asked Yard to mount the gem on a ring.

Yard—the personal jeweler to several Rockefeller family members—created a classic and understated diamond and platinum setting for the gem. The ring is considered to be one of Yard’s most important private commissions, according to Christie’s.

Christie’s says the Colombian emerald is described by the American Gemological Laboratories as “exceptional,” and possesses what AGL calls an “unusual combination of size, provenance, absence of treatment and quality factors [that contribute] favorably to its rarity and desirability.”

“Due to its rarity, an emerald of this quality and significant weight is not readily found in the market, and it is ranked at the top of its class,” Christie’s added in a statement. “Though it has passed on to other hands, this superb Colombian emerald still embodies the grandeur of the Rockefeller family name.”

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Graff's Newest Acquisition Is A 373-Carat Rough Diamond

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Graff Diamonds has acquired a 373.72-carat rough diamond that was once part of the Lesedi la Rona, the second largest gem quality diamond ever discovered. 

The icy gem measures 48mm x 41mm x 22mm and is classified as D color—meaning that the diamond is colorless, the highest color grade—and Type IIa—considered the purest type of diamond. It is estimated to be approximately 3 billion years old and was likely formed when the earth was still being created.

The luxury jeweler said Tuesday the rough gem has the potential to yield “a significant polished stone.”

“Every diamond has an inner script that we must read and respect,” Laurence Graff, founder of the London-based high jewelry brand, said in a statement. “We will now spend time discovering the secrets of this magnificent stone. Knowing that nature has given us this extraordinary gift, we take on the great responsibility of releasing its inner beauty.”

The diamond was unearthed at the Karowe mine in Botswana and was once attached to the Lesedi la Rona, the second largest gem quality diamond ever discovered and the largest in more than a century. Graff said it was separated from its famous sibling during the recovery process. 

The 1,109-carat Lesedi la Rona was unearthed by Lucara Diamond Corp., a Canadian diamond mining company, in November 2015. 

The auction house, Sotheby’s, placed the Lesedi la Rona in a stand-alone auction in London in June, 2016, with an estimate of more than $70 million. The diamond failed to sell. 

The public sale, which the auction house described as “unprecedented” for a rough stone, turned out to be quite controversial among the few diamantaires with the means to purchase such large diamonds, according to this story in Vanity Fair. One of the persons quoted as being against the auction was none other than Laurence Graff. 

“It’s not nice,” Graff reportedly said. “We don’t like it, what they’re doing. It’s just not how it’s done. We don’t want to have to expose ourselves in public [at an auction]. To contend in the open arena, we find it undesirable.” 

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Updated: Fancy Colored Diamond Earrings Sell For World Record $57.4 Million

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The Apollo and Artemis fancy colored diamond earrings sold for $57.4 million—a world record for earrings sold at auction.

The mismatched earrings were sold separately and were the top two lots at Sotheby’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels sale Tuesday.

The 14.54-carat, pear-shaped Apollo Blue was the big prize of the pair. It sold for more than $42.08 million (including buyers premium), within its estimate of $38 – $50 million.

Meanwhile, the 16-carat, pear-shaped Artemis Pink, sold for more than $15.3 million (including buyers premium), within its estimate of $12.5 – $18 million.

The two diamonds are named after the twin brother and sister who are among the most widely venerated of the Ancient Greek deities.

Update: Sotheby’s said later in the evening that both diamonds were purchased by the same person, who was not identified. “I am delighted that the stones will remain together as earrings,” David Bennett, worldwide chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewelry Division and chairman of Switzerland, said following the sale.

The Apollo Blue is the largest internally flawless fancy vivid blue diamond ever to be offered at auction, Sotheby’s said. It was graded as a Type IIb diamond, which amounts to less than 1% of all diamonds. In recent years, the only mine to produce blue diamonds with any regularity is the Cullinan mine in South Africa. When in full production, less than 0.1% of diamonds sourced showed any evidence of blue color, according to the Gemological Institute of America, which graded both diamonds and issued reports on them. An infinitesimally small percentage of those is graded Fancy Vivid Blue.

The Artemis Pink is a fancy intense pink diamond graded by the GIA as a Type IIa diamond, describing this category as “the most chemically pure type” of diamonds. The occurrence of pink diamonds is exceedingly rare. According to the GIA, of all diamonds it grades each year, “no more than 3% are classified as colored diamonds; less than 5% of those colored diamonds are predominantly pink.”

Other updated information:

In other news from the Sotheby’s sale, a 7.04-carat diamond by Piaget sold for more than $13.2 million, setting auction records for a fancy intense purplish pink diamond and for the price per carat for such a diamond at more than $6 million per carat.

The sale for the first time held at the Mandarin Oriental, Geneva, totaled more than $151.5 million, well above the presale estimate in the region of $100 million, with a sell-through rate of 90%. Three lots sold for more than $10 million and five sold for more than $5 million. Two-thirds of the lots sold above high estimate.

Other notable results from the auction include:

* Gem and jewels from a “Superb Private Collection” of diamonds and gemstones as well as signed jewels from iconic jewelry houses, doubled presale estimates to realize a combined total of $15.9 million and a sell-through rate of 96%. Items include the following:

- A 32.42-carat pear-shaped diamond ring by Harry Winston doubled its low estimate to realize more than $3.3 million;
- An emerald and diamond ring by Harry Winston achieved five times its estimate selling for $929,465; and
- A ruby and diamond brooch and ear clips by Van Cleef & Arpels which sold for a combined total of $477,551.

* A ruby, onyx and diamond bracelet by LaCloche, circa 1925, soared above estimate to achieve $748,498.

* A jadeite onyx, ruby and diamond pendant brooch by Cartier, Circa 1925, formerly in the collection of Mona, Countess von Bismarck, sold for $374,500, more than double its high estimate.

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92-Carat Heart-Shaped Diamond Fetches World Auction Record $14.9

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A 92-carat D Flawless heart-shaped diamond sold for $14.9 million at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale Wednesday. It set a world record for the price of a heart-shaped diamond sold at auction. 

It sold just above its $14 million low estimate. The jewel was given the name, La Légende. It was created by Boehmer et Bassenge, a high jewelry house that was launched a year ago. The company began working with the auction house last year.


Another big sale for the evening was a 15.03-carat unheated Burmese ruby mounted on a diamond ring that sold for $12.9 million ($861,000 per carat), within its estimate of $10 - $15 million.

In addition, a 7.97-carat fancy intense blue cushion-shaped diamond fetched more than $12.7 million, smashing its $3 million high estimate and setting an auction record per carat at $1.6 million, according to Christie’s. 

These were the top three items of the sale held at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues that featured 267 lots, achieving $94.5 million, with 85% sold by lot and 90% sold by value.  

Other highlights include:

A 56.03-carat, pear-shaped D color, potentially IF diamond pendent on a diamond necklace by Chopard fetched $6.3 million ($113,000 per carat);

A 4.05-carat square-cut, fancy deep blue VS1 diamond sold for $4.3 million ($1.05 million per carat);

A 47.63-carat cushion-shaped Burmese sapphire sold for more than $2.4 million ($50,500 per carat), three times its high estimate. 

A ruby and diamond four leaf clover brooch by Boucheron fetched $2.2 million, three times its high estimate. 

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Cartier To Unleash The 'Panthère Studio' Millennial Experience

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Cartier is bringing its prestigious brand downtown by offering a luxurious pop up experience at a popular New York restaurant. 

The luxury brand will launch Panthère Studio—a public-facing, experiential pop up promising to bring a customized, interactive experience to millennial audiences of New York. It will be held at the downtown French-Vietnamese restaurant, Indochine, May 20 and May 21. 

“We’re coming out of our boutiques and bringing the world of Cartier downtown, to engage with our clients—and future clients for that matter—where they live, work and play,” said Mercedes Abramo, president and CEO of Cartier North America. “We’re excited to introduce the iconic Panthère de Cartier watch to a fun, fearless new generation in such a unique, experiential way.”

It’s the first time the luxury brand is focused on presenting an experience rather than a retail-first environment. 

The theme will be the 1980s when the French luxury brand launched the Panthère de Cartier watch, featuring its iconic panther. The watch—with a square case, screwed-down bezel and linked brick-lay bracelet—was reintroduced this year. 

The Panthère Studio takeover of Indochine will include innovative and inherently shareable elements throughout the space, with live DJs, social media components and interactive photo experiences, including a Panthère ‘stacking bar,’ where guests can style their own Cartier looks with the Panthère watch.

Panthère de Cartier watch

Special guests will be in attendance throughout the weekend, including model and actress, Olivia Culpo.

Panthère Studio will be open to the public on Saturday, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m., with Olivia Culpo appearing from 12 p.m. - 2 p.m.; and on Sunday, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m.

To sign up or for more information, follow this link.

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Gemfields Biggest Shareholder Makes Unsolicited Offer For Remaining Shares

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Emerald and diamond necklace by Carolina Bucci using Gemfields Zambian emeralds 

Private equity company, Pallinghurst Resources, has made an unsolicited offer for the 53% of shares in Gemfields it does not already own. 

Pallinghurst, based in South Africa, specializes in investments in the mining sector. It is offering approximately $150 million in its shares for the remaining stake in Gemfields, a London-based colored gemstone mining and marketing company, making it a core component of Pallinghurst’s value. 

Pallinghurst’s offer doesn’t provide any added value to Gemfields, which it values at approximately $295 million.

Gemfields Board, in a statement to shareholders, “strongly advises … to take no action at this time.” However, Gemfields shareholders owning 28% of the company had already agreed to the offer, Pallinghurst says, giving it 75 percent backing and making the offer unconditional. 

Gemfields in its current form was created in 2008 when Pallinghurst and its co-investors contributed the Kagem emerald mine to Gemfields, its core operating asset, for shares. This transaction made Pallinghurst and its co-investors the majority shareholders of Gemfields. In 2013, Pallinghurst added the luxury brand, Fabergé, to Gemfields holdings, increasing Pallinghurst group’s direct ownership in Gemfields to the current level of 47.09%.

The strategy from the beginning was for Gemfields to become the “De Beers of the Colored Gemstone Industry” by creating a mine-to-market strategy for its responsibly sourced gems that could be traced throughout the supply chain and communicated to the industry and consumers. Part of this communication involves creating a grading system for determining emerald quality. There was no industry standard for evaluating rough colored gemstones, Gemfields established its own standard, assessing each gem according to its individual characteristics (size, color, shape and clarity). 

Pallinghurst contends that Gemfields is “an attractive and unique business” but in its current structure is constrained by limited access to equity and debt capital, low share liquidity and high costs.

“Pallinghurst believes that, since its investment, the performance of the Gemfields share price has been disappointing and despite the major positive developments, Gemfields’ shareholders, including Pallinghurst, have not benefited appropriately,” Pallinghurst said in a statement. “The share price of Gemfields has not increased over the last decade.” 

Gemfields key holdings are: 

* 75% of the Kagem emerald mine in Zambia; 
* 75% of the Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique; 
* 50% of the Kariba amethyst mine in Zambia; and 
* 100% of Fabergé Limited. 

Once gaining full control of Gemfields, Pallinghurst will delist Gemfields from the Alternative Investment Market (AIM), a sub-market of the London Stock Exchange for smaller, less-viable companies, and take it private, at least for the time being. Pallinghurst is listed on the Johannesburg Stock Exchange (JSE) and the Bermuda Stock Exchange (BSX) and it said it would consider listing Gemfields on the LSE.

Pallinghurst, in order to create profitability for Gemfields, said it would do the following: 

* Focus on Gemfields’ core emerald and ruby operations in Zambia and Mozambique, respectively, and develop these to optimal scale;
* Accelerate the development of its existing portfolio of projects to mitigate the dependency on its attractive, but cyclical assets;
* Explore strategic alternatives for Fabergé, where significant growth capital is still required to reach its full potential; and
* Pursue cost reductions across the enlarged group.

Gemfields sells its rough gems through international auctions, which Pallinghurst says has “brought a level of professionalism and transparency previously not seen in the industry.” With its proprietary grading system for gems, Gemfields developed three auction classes, one offering higher quality gemstones, one for the larger volume of lower quality gemstones and the last offering mixed quality gemstones.

Pallinghurst said acquiring all of Gemfields would allow it to collapse its investment structure and simplify its management arrangements.

“The result will be a renewed Pallinghurst with a simplified operating model and an in-house management team,” Pallinghurst said in a statement. “The value of the underlying assets will be more clearly demonstrable with clearer earnings and operating metrics that can be benchmarked against industry peers. The revised structure model will allow Pallinghurst to rationalize costs across the group by simplifying the group's structures.”

The statement continued, “Post completion … Pallinghurst expects to have an enlarged market capitalization, improved trading liquidity and equity broker coverage. The board of directors of Pallinghurst believes that the combination of these factors should be value accretive for all shareholders.” 

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Italian Jewelry Museum To Debut ‘Dames and Knights’ Exhibition

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Colonial Order of the Star of Italy Plaque and Sign of Great Cross. Photo by Martina Pace

The Museo del Gioiello in Vicenza, Italy, will hold a temporary exhibition focusing on jewels presented as honors in Italy, other European countries and even other world regions, a practice that stretched from the Middle Ages to modern times. Titled “Dames and Knights. Jewels of Honors,” it opens to the public Wednesday, March 24 and runs till September 17. An opening reception will be held March 23.

The items are curated to celebrate this artistic genre as a subject worth noting due to its quality, origin and proof of the history of different countries and geographical areas.

Order of the Crown Knight with spade. Photo by Martina Pace 

The temporary exhibition on the ground floor of the jewelry museum is arranged in two sections. The first will display about 40 Knighthood honors and decorations selected from pre-eminent and rare collections around the world. 

In addition, 10 items pay tribute to the collection of former Italian Prime Minister Giovanni Giolitti, which were given to him by royal and government leaders.

Included in the display are honorary decorations that serve as symbols of Italian history. including: the Order of St. Maurice and St. Lazarus, the Insignia of the Grand Cross, the Collar of Our Lady of the Annunciation, the Grand Collar of St. George and the Colonial Order of the Star of Italy's Grand Cross.

Constantinian Order of St. George. Photo by Martina Pace 

A second section dedicated to Dames has about 10 items, including the Legion of Honor's Insignia of Knighthood and Insignia of the Ordo Supremus Militaris Templi Hierosolymitani.

The itinerary takes a visitor on a journey through time and honorary decoration culture with provides explanations of their intrinsic and evocative meanings. It serves as a piece of Italian and European history that recalls a value that was handed down through the years with the aim of rewarding praiseworthy actions in the fields of literature, arts and economy and for commitment in carrying out public duties and activities for social, philanthropic and humanitarian purposes as well as for long-standing and remarkable services in civil and military careers.

Order of the National Merit of Civil Division. Photo by Martina Pace

Insignia, decorations and medals that date back to the 11th century with Knighthood honors bestowed purely on men who highly distinguished themselves, a usage that was extended to women in 1662.

The exhibition will also be presenting about ten creations by G.B. Ballarino, a goldsmith from a company with a long tradition in the field of honorary decorations, authorized to raise the arms of the Royal House of Savoy and the Royal House of Bulgaria with the inscription “fornitore della Real Casa” (Royal House supplier) through gold, enamel and precious stone cross pendants.

Order of Danilo I of Montenegro. Photo by
Martina Pace

The museum, the first in Italy and one of a few in the world dedicated to jewelry, is located inside the Basilica Palladiana and is managed by Italian Exhibition Group S.p.A. (IEG)—the trade show company generated by a merger between Rimini Fiera and Fiera di Vicenza—in partnership with Vicenza Municipal Council.

The museum is the result of IEG’s commitment to promoting the universal culture of Italian gold and jewelry, a sector in which it is well known as a global Business Hub thanks to the VicenzaOro international jewelry trade show.

Royal Order of Cambodia. Photo by Martina Pace

For more information follow this link.

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Inside Graff’s Workshop Where The Most Desired Jewels In The World Are Made

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"The Fascination," a $40 million transformable watch with more than 152 carats of diamonds

Sometimes I get to do some pretty cool things. For instance on a sunny, warm March afternoon in London I entered the Graff Diamonds workshop where I was able to see how some of the most desired jewels in the world are made.

Below street level a well-lit room with white walls and a low ceiling was tightly packed with rows of bench jewelers working independently while machinery buzzed and hummed around them. About 70 craftsmen produce roughly 350 jewels per month, says Raymond Graff, director of the workshop and brother of the company’s founder, Laurence Graff. This includes the unique jewels made with some of the world’s most sought-after diamonds and colored gems.

The making of a diamond necklace in the Graff workshop

The jewels are based on designs created a floor above done with both hand drawings and via CAD, which Raymond Graff says provides better design details.

One of the things that separates Graff’s workshop from other high jewelers is that it uses modern manufacturing principles to produce a high number of luxury jewels while adhering to traditional high jewelry hand craftsmanship. The operation produces so many jewels that it contains a branch of the Goldsmiths’ Company Assay Office for the hallmarking of precious metals (a requirement in the U.K.). Precious metals come in raw forms and in various shapes, which are then refined by metalsmiths into the framework for the jewels. The diamonds and other gems are set by craftsmen that specialize in this work.

Diamond setting a flower brooch in the Graff workshop

One of Graff’s latest pieces that highlight the workshop's craftsmanship is the limited edition “Princess Butterfly Secret Watch,” which features white gold shaped into sensual curves and butterfly wings paved with diamonds and colored gems. The stones are mounted with the invisible set technique, where small grooves are cut in the underside of each diamond or gemstone allowing them to slide onto a grid hidden beneath the stones. To achieve a finish of pure color the stones must be color-matched, before being cut to fit tightly against one another as if made exactly for the delicate curvature of the butterfly wings.

The “secret” watch dial is revealed beneath the gem-paved wings by pressing on a round diamond, which allows the wings to slide apart.

Setting a large diamond on a ring

Graff is known for diamonds and all the diamonds used for Graff jewels (whether personally sourced by Laurence Graff or through the normal supply chain) go through the South African Diamond Corporation (SAFDICO), which is Graff’s diamond procurement and polishing division in Botswana. It is one of the largest such operations in Africa. This practice of vertical integration (sourcing the materials and making the jewels in-house) increases efficiency, enhances quality control and serves as another example of the luxury jewelry operation’s commitment to manufacturing principles.

The number of iconic statement diamonds purchased by Laurence Graff is legendary. In some cases he made a bold decision to re-cut the diamond. Recently, Graff unveiled “The Graff Venus.” At 118.78 carats, it is the world’s largest D-color, flawless heart-shaped diamond. Contributing to its rarity is that there is likely no other diamond manufacturer willing to cut such a large D-color, flawless diamond into such a challenging shape.

Enhancing the details of a sapphire bracelet

This shows the trust Laurence Graff has in its diamond cutters and polishers and the risks he’s willing to take to create such a gem. It’s the same trust that Laurence Graff shows throughout the operation and just one of the reasons for the success of Graff Diamonds.

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Garrard Uses Its Heritage For Its Contemporary Jewels

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1735 Marguerite sapphire and diamond cluster engagement ring, modeled after the ring first presented to princess Diana and now worn by Kate Middleton

The world’s oldest jeweler is working hard to appeal to younger consumers by using a formula that is fairly common among luxury brands. It is taking the essence of its heritage and applying it in the design of new, contemporary jewels at a more accessible price.

The House of Garrard, under the leadership of creative director Sara Prentice, is producing petite, understated jewels designed to be worn daily with storylines and details that reference the brand’s history, which the company traces back to 1735.

18k white gold stud earrings from the Enchanted Palace collection, the bejeweled bugs are set with a turquoise body, diamond pave wings and yellow gold legs. It sits on removable diamond-shape patterned bars, set with white round diamonds

Among its new releases is the “Enchanted Palace” collection, which takes its inspiration from the Great Exhibition of 1851, celebrating the advancements of the Victorian age in manufacturing and design. Garrard displayed nearly 100 pieces of jewelry, silverware and trophies at the exhibition, inspired by their commissions for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The jewels included turquoise, blue sapphires and diamonds among other precious stones and featured quirky designs such as ‘fly’ brooches enormously popular with the Queen and the Victorian people as a symbol of humility.

The jewels as well as the architectural design of the Palace itself (which included 300,000 glass windows) inspired The Enchanted Palace collection. The fly returns, reproduced in turquoise with delicate diamond encrusted wings. There are jewels designed to spin, revealing diamonds or sapphires with each twist. There are also rock crystal windows studded with diamonds and multi-wear pendants and earrings with removable tassels and drops.

18k white gold tassel earrings from the Enchanted Palace collection, set with a detachable rock crystal motif and sapphire tassels

The collection “celebrates the fun and quirky side of design, so embraced by the Victorians,” Prentice says. “Each piece has a beautiful simplicity to its design but is incredibly technical in its construction and in this way I think we have captured the spirit of the era perfectly.”

Today the company is housed in a magnificent four-story corner building designed and built for Garrard on Albemarle Street, just off Bond Street. It contains a workshop, a showroom on the first floor for its newest creations, and the records and artifacts of the company’s unique history. On my visit in March, I was taken to the Queen Mary room on the second floor. Named with the consent of Queen Mary in 1911, among other artifacts, contains photographs of five of the nine royal crowns created by Garrard. They are as follows:


* The Imperial State Crown of India;


* The matching Queen Consort’s crown for King George V and Queen Mary, with Queen Mary’s crown set with the fabled Koh-i-Noor diamond;


* Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother’s consort’s crown and Imperial State Crown remodeled for George VI in 1937, with high arches. The entire crown was then remade again by Garrard for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth in 1953 with lowered arches for a Queen, and a smaller band to fit her head, but still using the same stones, which include the Black Prince’s Ruby and the Cullinan II diamond, sister of the enormous Cullinan I, which is set into the Sovereign’s Sceptre;

In addition, Garrard created a petite crown for Queen Victoria, who couldn’t bear the weight of a normal-sized crown.

While the jewelry house has made some of the most iconic crowns and tiaras in history, it’s most famous piece is the sapphire and diamond cluster engagement ring first owned by Princess Diana and now worn by Kate Middleton, upon her engagement to Diana’s son, Prince Harry. The luxury brand recreated many of the details of that ring with its 1735 Marguerite sapphire and diamond cluster engagement ring. The center stone also is available in ruby and emerald, to add variety and bring a personal take for the iconic ring. The 1735 Marguerite collection also includes matching earrings and pendants with an oval or cushion shaped center stone.

So while the formula for using heritage to create contemporary products isn’t a new strategy for luxury brands, Garrard just has so much more history to work with that it stands a better chance of success. 

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Couture Show 2017 Jewelry Preview

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2016 Couture Show 

The Couture Show being held at the Wynn Las Vegas and Encore Luxury Resort June 2 – 6, specializes in luxury and fashion jewels from independent designers as well as national and international luxury brands. More than 200 exhibitors and 4,000 buyers from top luxury department stores and independent luxury retailers fill the main ballrooms and private spaces throughout the resort. Below is a short preview of some of the jewels that will be on display at the show. 


Gold bamboo and diamond Arbor ring with a 7-carat blue-grey spinel center stone by Aaron Henry


Three stacked rings by Yael Sonia: Solo Rotated 8mm ring in 18k yellow gold and amethyst, Sonia Duo Solo 6mm and 8mm ring in 18k yellow gold with green tourmaline and pink tourmaline, and the Solo Rotated 6mm ring in 18k rose gold with pink tourmaline


David Webb Paisley bracelet with cabochon rubies, emeralds, sapphires, brilliant-cut diamonds set in green and light blue enamel with 18k gold and platinum 


Macan Murni 18k gold ring by John Hardy featuring a Mabe Pearl framed by two jeweled tiger heads with pave-set black and white diamonds and black sapphires


Loren Nicole Etruscan Collar in handcrafted filigree 20k gold with 8mm bezel set stones and satin finish


22k gold and silver rectangle drop earrings with black diamonds by Arman Sarkisyan


18k gold emerald cocktail ring with diamonds by Colette


18k white gold and diamond signet ring by Jemma Wynne 


18k black gold opal butterfly bangle by Wendy Yue with tsavorites, black diamonds, champagne diamonds, and white diamonds 



Black rhodium gold and black diamond bracelet by Noudar

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Tudor Signs David Beckham And The ‘All Blacks’ Rugby Team

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David Beckham wearing the Tudor Black Bay S & G 

Tudor has been keeping busy lately. The Swiss watch brand on Tuesday announced the signing of two new brand ambassadors. The first is David Beckham, the international soccer star and fashion icon. The second is the biggest name in the world of Rugby, the New Zealand All Blacks.

Beckham and the All Blacks will star in Tudor’s new campaign with the “Born To Dare” signature. The company says the campaign reflects “the history of the brand and what it stands for today. Daring individuals have long chosen Tudor while achieving the extraordinary on land, ice, in the air and underwater. It also refers to the vision of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Tudor, who manufactured Tudor watches to withstand the most extreme conditions, watches made for the most daring lifestyle."

The All Blacks wearing the Tudor Black Bay Dark

The Tudor “Born To Dare” spirit is expressed in the following statement:

“We are devoted to the classic. But reject the status quo. We keep the best of the past, the best watchmaking practices, the best designs. And push the boundaries of what’s new. Born for a purpose. Field-tested to the extreme. For those who are up for anything. For those who face their fears.”

A closer look of David Beckham wearing the Tudor Black Bay S & G

Beckham, in the same statement, said he became interested in the brand through its sibling brand Rolex, which he collects. “I was attracted to Tudor by the attention to detail I could see in their watches. I then learned about the history of the brand—one of adventure, pioneer diving and daring expeditions. I was instantly hooked.”

Below is a video with Beckham in Tudor's Born To Dare campaign.


Beckham in the campaign wears the Black Bay S&G, a vintage-inspired steel and gold diver’s watch as well as the Black Bay Chrono, a COSC-certified chronograph with column-wheel manufacture caliber, drawing upon Tudor's diving and motorsports heritage.

The All Blacks star player, Beauden Barrett, wearing the Tudor Black Bay Dark

The All Blacks is the most successful national team in the history of professional rugby, known for their winning ways and their “haka” pre-game ritual—based on the traditional war challenge from the Māori people of New Zealand.

Tudor’s sponsorship of the All Blacks includes separate sponsorships for its star player, Beauden Barrett, and the upcoming 2017 DHL New Zealand Lions Series. Every four years, the best rugby players in England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales, combine to become the British and Irish Lions team and tour one of the Southern Hemisphere rugby nations. In 2017, the tour will be in New Zealand and include three matches with the All Blacks, beginning June 24.

The All Blacks and Barrett are photographed in the campaign wearing the Black Bay Dark, a vintage-inspired all-black steel diver’s watch.

Below is the haka being performed by the All Blacks prior to the final of the Rugby World Cup 2011 against the French team in New Zealand.


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Hot Air Balloon Engagement Proposal: Jamie and Tom’s Unforgettable Trip To India

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Jamie in front of the Taj Mahal with her round diamond solitaire engagement ring

By Chris Benham, co-founder and director of Inspired Jewellery Ltd., and Angelka Vegar, marketing coordinator of Inspired Jewellery Ltd.

After a couple of years talking about it, Jamie and Tom finally decided that 2017 was the year they would move their lives to London. Tom also decided that it was the year he was going to ask Jamie to marry him. 

Before flying to London, the couple set their sights on India with a month long trip exploring the “famously chaotic” country. “Truth be told”, says Jamie, “India wasn't next on my must-see list. In fact, it wasn’t on there at all. But it was first on Tom's bucket list so we booked tickets." 

Tom readies to propose to Jamie at sunrise on a hot air balloon

The date was set, the bags were packed and Jamie was unsure what to expect but if one thing was for certain it was that an adventure awaited. Little did she know, Tom had been working with the team at The Village Goldsmith to design and craft the perfect engagement ring to come along for the ride. 

In fact, Jamie had no idea that Tom was planning to propose until the very moment he dropped down on one knee.

“He did an incredible job at keeping it hidden from me. He had already asked my Dad for his blessing before we left New Zealand and the ring box was couriered to him when he knew I would be at work.

“The ring itself was sent to Auckland Airport in a peppermints container so when he wandered off and came back with a book and mints for the plane, I didn’t think anything of it.

“He also managed to stay cool, calm and collected for a whole two weeks every time I kept going near and getting things out of his suitcase (and probably being a few millimeters away from finding the box.)”

Tom had his work cut out for him to try and make sure everything went to plan. He, and Jamie, quickly learned that, “you may have planned the trip but India is the one in control”.

“I had always joked to Tom that he was never allowed to propose unless my nails had been manicured so while we were in Pushkar, Tom and I both went to have a pedicure and he incredibly subtly enticed me into getting my hands done too. They did a terrible job though so I went back to the room incredibly grumpy that my “nails had been ruined” (drama queen). That wasn’t exactly part of Tom’s plan but, as he said, at least he tried and it wasn’t his fault.”

Tom proposed to Jamie two weeks into the trip in Jaipur, the Capital of Rajasthan, also known as 'The Pink City'.

“When we were researching India before our trip, we had read that doing a hot air balloon ride in Jaipur was meant to be spectacular so we arranged to have a private balloon ride over the Jaipur countryside to watch the sunrise”. 

Tom and Jamie were picked up by a driver at 5am for the hour-long ride to the hot air balloon launch site but, after all the preparation and inflation of the balloon, the ride was called off at the last minute because the wind conditions had changed.
 
The hot air balloon launch site in Jaipur

“Poor Tom had already had a sleepless night (all the anxiety and excitement of the proposal) and now he had to wait another long 24 hours before we could give it another attempt."
 

Luckily, the next morning was the most perfect morning; the couple successfully took off and watched the sun rise over the mountains from their hot air balloon. 

“Floating in a balloon surrounded by pink skies and mountain tops was already the most surreal experience and then Tom asked the pilot to take some photos of us. He quickly leant down to ‘have a drink of water’ while I was staring out at the view, and then when I turned around, at 3150 ft in the air, Tom got down on one knee and asked me to marry him. 

Tom on one knee with the diamond solitaire ring asking Jamie to marry him high above the city of Jaipur

"Apparently, I said “of course I will” before I even looked at the ring - and while I absolutely adore the ring, Tom joked that my answer meant even more because it wasn’t dependent on whether I liked what was in the box.

“What I hadn’t realized until afterwards was Tom had put together a playlist of all our favorite songs which was playing for the duration of our balloon ride. 

“The proposal was a truly magical moment - one that still feels very surreal and out of a fairytale."

“Tom took particular amusement in the fact that I stubbed my toe the other day because I was too busy staring at the ring instead of looking where I was going.”

The happy couple celebrating 4,000 feet in the air

Both Tom and Jamie agree without a doubt that India was the most incredible country that they have been lucky enough to explore. With a marriage proposal thrown in the mix, it’s a trip, and a place, they’ll remember for the rest of their lives. 

Read Jamie’s latest post on her blog, The Blondini Chronicles - India as Female, Foreign and Fair-headed - plus travel tips and amazing photos from each Indian destination

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The Top Jewels and Designers At The 2017 Couture Show

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If I could I would spend four days of my time in Las Vegas during jewelry week at The Couture Show. It’s become the best show in terms of the quality of pieces and the most enjoyable in terms of the overall comfortable, informal yet luxurious environment. This year I had two days and it just wasn’t enough time to see all of the quality designers. So this list of 26 jewels is among the best I saw at the show but there were certainly much more to see.


New York-based designer, Coomi, presented an exceptional offering of jewels ranging from traditional high jewelry pieces to a special collection based on an historic piece of architecture to items made with objects from antiquity. In many ways it was typical of what Coomi produces each year at Couture but this year the artistry and creativity was prolific. The items on display included a collection of beautiful, sea-blue paraiba tourmalines set in 20k white gold and paired with diamonds.


An extremely rare and very large natural saltwater pearl from the Melo Melo sea snail. The 23.8 x 23.3 x 23.1 mm, “non-nacreous pearl” is set in an 18k rose gold and diamond pavé bezel enclosure. It is valued at well over $700,000, says the pearl house, Assael, which presented this and other sea treasures at its booth.


The David Webb brand made its first appearance at Couture, featuring new and period pieces that combine materials, colors and themes.


The Atoli (atolls) pendant necklace Antonini. An 18k yellow gold oval with delicate curves surrounds a circle of diamond pavé over rough textured white gold that enhances the sparkle of the diamonds.


Spectacular blue opals and azurite (rarely used in jewelry) mounted on gold and surrounded by assorted gems is the latest collection from the dreamlike world of Lydia Courteille.


To celebrate its 50th Anniversary in 2017, Picchiotti created “L’Anfiteatro,” an 8.05-carat ruby ring inspired by a classic amphitheater.


French designer, Elie Top, unveiled a new collection of elaborate two-sided pieces based on astrology and other celestial imagery called, “Cosmogonie secrete” (Secret Cosmogony).


The House of Garrard brought some of its high jewelry to Couture including this statement diamond and ruby necklace.


Mother of pearl earrings by Goshwara.


The unusual ametrine stone, a mix of amethyst and citrine, used for a pair of earrings by John Hardy.


Designer Lisa Nik introduced her own “kite”-shaped gemstones at Couture.


Paraiba tourmaline and opal cuff by Saboo Fine Jewels.


A 22k gold locket with oxidized silver and diamonds by Arman Sarkisyan.


A bracelet featuring an opal owl surrounded with multi-colored gems by Wendy Yue.


Round precious materials inside golden cages is the premise behind Yael Sonia’s geometric inspired perpetual motion collection.


The Plumage three-finger ring by Stephen Webster in 18k white gold, white rhodium plating, marquise shape emeralds 4.58ct and white diamond pavé.


Three fluid 18k yellow gold bands connect and topped with six brilliant round diamonds in the Whirl Ring by Carelle.


White gold star clusters set with white diamonds by Colette.


Fabergé Emotion ring made with multi-colored sapphires, white diamonds, rubies, tsavorites and emeralds, set in 18k yellow gold.


Sterling silver with the look and feel of swirling twigs enhanced with golden leaves and white diamond tips make up this organic and artistic cuff by Michael Arman.


Pearl-centric designer, Mizuki, presented creative ways to match her multi-colored and –shaped pearls with gems and diamonds.


The jewelry brand, Noudar, uses Arabian themes and influences in its jewels, including its popular lace-like gold chokers in several colors.


A three-layer cluster diamond necklace with matching ring by Qayten.


18k gold with white and black diamond pavé with three center diamonds are used for Sara Weinstock’s Veena Shield pendant.


A bracelet in topaz and white gold in a signature design by Selim Mouzannar.


Anita Ko necklace using two rows of diamonds, each row with a different shape.

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Asteria Is Bringing Colored Diamonds Online To U.S. Consumers

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Natural fancy colored diamonds are among the most sought after gems in the world, with the very best and rarest regularly breaking worldwide auction records. Israeli-based Asteria Diamonds is one of a few companies that provide high-quality colored diamonds online to consumers. The brand is currently targeting the U.S. market with new offices in New York and Chicago.

Asteria was founded by Bashari Diamonds (Israel) Ltd., a wholesale diamond manufacturing business founded in 1973.

0.40-carat fancy intense orange yellow diamond, $1,890

As technology in how diamonds are manufactured and distributed advanced in recent years, Bashari saw it was time to create a diamond brand for consumers using its wholesale inventory. Asteria Diamonds was born in 2008. The brand first specialized in white diamonds for the burgeoning luxury market in China, which it had already entered with its wholesale business.

As online retail, marketing and social media continued changing and becoming more global, in 2012 Asteria launched its global eCommerce website (www.asteriadiamonds.com).

1.84-carat fancy yellow-green diamond surrounded by white and colored diamonds, $28,661

Today Asteria specializes in fancy colored diamonds, but also sells white diamonds, colored gemstones and diamond jewelry. The company says it offers its entire inventory directly to consumers at wholesale prices. Even though it is an online retailer, the company says it can provide personalized service throughout the world.

The website offers a full breadth of fancy colored diamonds, spanning all different sizes, cuts, qualities and colors. Prices reflect this diversity, ranging from as low as $400 to more than $150,000. The brand also offers statement diamonds not listed on the website.

3.3-carat fancy light yellow diamond engagement ring

Prices for a full collection of diamond jewels also vary widely based on the quality of the diamond and the design and can run more than $600,000. There were several pieces in which the price was only given upon request.

The brand is certainly keen on pushing fancy colored diamonds for engagement rings, something that has had limited success in the past with U.S. consumers. The trend in colored gems for engagement has a long history among the rich and famous and Asteria is working hard to increase the popularity of this trend.

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The High Jewels To See At 2017 Masterpiece London

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A scene from the 2016 edition of Masterpiece London

All of the top names from the past and present of the high jewelry world will be there, such as Fabergé, Van Cleef & Arpels, Verdura, Belperron, Wallace Chan and Hemmerle. Other familiar names for avid jewelry collectors will be present as well, including Gustave Baugrand, Andrew Grima and Raymond Yard. There will be jewels from all periods and names that will be new to some of us as well.

The eighth edition of Masterpiece London opens to the public Thursday and will run till July 5. It’s an art fair first but the amount of quality jewels (old and new) on display is impressive. For the first time I will be attending the event although I will miss the today’s (Wednesday) preview, arguably the best time to go.

What follows is a preview of some of the jewels that will on display:


It appears that Van Cleef & Arpels will be bringing its Automate Fée Ondine to Masterpiece London, the bejeweled automaton that was the showstopper at the January SIHH 2017 luxury watch fair. The table-sized “jewel” consists of engraved and enameled silver strips, white, pink and yellow gold, diamonds, blue and colored sapphires, aquamarine, plique-à-jour enamel, silver, spessartite garnets, white opal, onyx, Mystery Set rubies and ebony veneer.


A diamond and natural pearl bracelet by Boghossian.


The "Bliss and Peace" necklace by Wallace Chan, which uses an imperial snuff bottle from the Daoguang period (1821-1850) of Qing dynasty.


From London dealer, Hancocks, an Egyptian gold scarab and multi-gem bead necklace by Marcus & Co., circa 1905.


Earrings crafted out of emeralds, silver and white gold, 2016, by Hemmerle.


From Monaco jewelry dealer, Véronique Bamps, Van Cleef & Arpels “Ludo Hexagone” clip brooches and bracelet made of 18k gold and diamonds, circa 1935.


From London dealer, Sandra Cronan, an emerald-shaped aquamarine gem on a clip by Raymond Yard with four tapered slivers of opal on two diagonally opposing corners with two rows of diamond running up each side, circa 1933.


From the jointly owned jewelry brands, Verdura and Belperron, the Verdura Raja ring with a Ceylon sapphire center stone surrounded by turquoise and diamonds.


From London dealer, S.J. Phillips, a 19th century pink topaz, diamond and emerald insect brooch, circa 1890.


From London dealer, Wartski, an enamel and gem-set neo-Egyptian brooch by Gustave Baugrand.


The Underwater Ring by London jeweler, Theo Fennell.


From London jeweler, Chatila, an 8.18-carat pear shaped fancy purplish pink diamond on a ring flanked by two white diamonds.


From London dealer, Didier, an 18k gold ring in the form of a self-portrait of the artist, Marisol Escobar, her hair tied in coils around her ears, and set with ruby eyes. Number 32 from an edition of 100, circa 1970.


From London jewelry brand, Grima, yellow gold drop earrings set with golden diamonds and drop-shaped garnets by Jojo Grima, 2006.


From London dealer, Symbolic & Chase, a cultured pearl and platinum ring by Jean Despres.


From New York dealer, A La Vieille Russie, a miniature fish-form egg pendant by Fabergé, using wood and gem-set gold.

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New Jewelry Designers at Couture and JCK Luxury

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A petrified wood bracelet by designer Susan Oster of Feral Jewelry. Photo by Gretchen Friedrich

By Gretchen Friedrich, JNN Social Media Manager

My purpose for JCK and Couture 2017 was to seek out new designers and procure their stories. Breaking into the jewelry industry is challenging, as most established businesses consist of multiple generations and family members. New artisans often don’t have the family support and vendor relationships to aid in their success. They also tend to have a great deal of passion for their craft. 

The two women featured in this post are both newcomers to the jewelry industry, but they also have a common thread, their design background. Marcia Budet and Susan Oster entered the world of jewelry through a creative transfer of sorts. Budet has a formal education in architecture and Oster was in interior design for 16 years prior to her shift to jewelry design. 

A pair of earrings by Marcia Budet. Photo by Gretchen Friedrich

Marcia Budet: Elegantly Bold

Marcia Budet is a former JCK Rising Star award winner, and this year she debuted at Couture. Her “Elegantly Bold” style is evolving, with more challenging stone shapes and designs that reflect her architectural training. 

In my interview with her, she explains the features of her new pieces, created specifically for Couture. 



Susan Oster: Feral Jewelry

Susan Oster revealed her Feral Jewelry collection in the design section of the JCK Luxury show. This was her first jewelry industry show. Oster said she was a successful interior designer but wanted to explore a different creative pursuit. 

Aptly named, Feral Jewelry uses primal elements and recycled raw materials in each piece, including a 10,000 year-old piece of petrified wood as the centerpiece of a custom bracelet. 

Oster discusses her transition into jewelry in my interview with her at the show.


What’s Next?

Both Budet and Oster answered the “what’s next?” question with a laugh. But, these designers are never lacking for inspiration, and a passion for the creation process. 

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Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Chaumet Will Return To La Biennale Paris In 2018

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The entrance to the Grand Palais during the 2016 La Biennale Paris. Photo by Anthony DeMarco

The big news for jewelry lovers wasn’t even announced at the Tuesday press breakfast hosted by a few of the new board members of the La Biennale Paris (formerly known as Biennale des Antiquaires), the annual event held at the Grand Palais in Paris in September. 

In the world I cover the story is that the Place Vendôme jewelers—Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron and Chaumet—will return to La Biennale in 2018. These French brands and other jewelers (Wallace Chan and Bulgari among them) left the antiques fair last year when the new board reduced the size of the exhibition booths. The French brands were a centerpiece of the annual fair. Their popularity also led the antiques complain that they were getting too much of the spotlight. it is after all an antiques and art fair

Mathias Ary Jan, president of the National des Antiquaires (SNA), which owns and operates the fair, said was important that the thoroughly French fair welcome these jewelry brands back into the fold. It seemed that the jewelers were also eager to return. 

“They are a vital part of our French heritage,” he said following the event. “It was important to have them participate.” 

Also representing the fair at the press breakfast were Eric Coatalem, SNA treasurer, and Christopher “Kip” Forbes, president of the Biennale Commission, which oversees the event. 

The jewelry portion of La Biennale was reduced from 14 exhibitors in 2014 to four in 2016—Cindy Chao, de Grisogono, Boghossian and Nirav Modi. (There were 14 jewelers in 2014.) None were from France and only one, de Grisogono, showed previously at the fair a number of years ago. They will all return this year. 

In addition, for the first time the fair will host Swiss watchmakers. The two chosen were F. P. Journe and DeWitt are known for producing a small number of high-end hand-crafted timepieces. This followed last year’s special presentation at the fair of an historical non-selling timepiece exhibit by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, an organization tasked with preserving the historical heritage of high watchmaking. 

The 2017 La Biennale Paris will be open to the public September 11 – 17, with a private viewing September 10. To date, there are 92 confirmed exhibitors, a number they would like to see improve as there were 113 exhibitors last year. 

A total of 29 exhibitors are from outside France. There are no exhibitors from the U.S., something that the SNA would like to change. In this regard one of Forbes’ major tasks will be to attract U.S. exhibitors and collectors to what is considered one of the world’s most important antiques fairs. On Monday, Forbes, vice chairman of the Forbes Publishing and avid art collector, with the two SNA representatives, hosted a reception for about 50 collectors and gallery owners. 

“For the Biennale not to have any American exhibitors, is something this dynamic new president (Jan) will address,” Forbes said. Both Forbes and Jan spoke about the landmark Grand Palais as an attraction and as a symbol of the fair’s importance.

“One of the challenges of the Grand Palais is everybody has to almost have to compete with one of the most staggeringly breathtaking buildings in Paris,” Forbes said. “So you have to raise the bar pretty high.” 

The main news has been known for some time. This year marks the first time the fair will be held annually since its founding in 1962. The organization, for now at least, will not change the “Biennale” name. 

This new group of leaders are very aggressive in making changes to the event so there will be more news coming. 

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Tiffany Names Diesel Head Alessandro Bogliolo As New CEO

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Tiffany & Co. said Thursday that it has named Alessandro Bogliolo, the former head of global apparel and accessories company, Diesel, as its next chief executive officer and newest board member. He will join the company on October 2.

Bogliolo, 52, is a veteran luxury industry executive who for the past four years led Diesel's efforts to revitalize its brand and enhance the customer experience, according to a statement by Tiffany. He also worked for 16 at Bulgari SpA, including in the roles of chief operating officer and executive VP of Jewelry, Watches & Accessories. During his career, Bogliolo has worked in a range of countries, including China, Singapore, Italy, France, Spain and the United States.

 “Today's announcement concludes the board's thorough process to identify and recruit an accomplished leader to position the Company for sustainable growth in the years ahead,” Michael J. Kowalski, chairman and interim CEO, said in a statement. “Alessandro has a well-deserved reputation for creativity and execution, having previously led a number of international brands to success and improved performance. I also believe that his vision and team-oriented approach make him an ideal fit with Tiffany’s long-standing values. Tiffany is an iconic brand and is at an important time in its history. We look forward to Alessandro and the Tiffany team delivering a distinctive vision of luxury and style to our customers around the world, while also focusing on driving attractive returns for our shareholders.”

“I am honored and excited by the opportunity to lead this remarkable company,” Bogliolo said. “Tiffany, with its legendary history, has always represented luxury, style, and an extraordinary standard of quality and excellence, and I look forward to working with the board and the rest of the Tiffany team to build on this foundation. It is my goal to continue to delight our customers with compelling product offerings, supported by best-in-class operations. I am committed to strengthening the company's position as one of the world's most important luxury brands and delivering value for all of our stakeholders.”

The new appointment is the latest development in leadership changes that began February 5, with the resignation of its former CEO, Frederic Cumenal, on Super Bowl Sunday, the same day it launched Lady Gaga as the face of its new fashion jewelry collection, Tiffany HardWear, with its first ever Super Bowl commercial prior to her halftime performance.

He was replaced in the interim by Michael J. Kowalski, the former longtime CEO of Tiffany’s and its current board chairman.

Later in the month the luxury jewelry retailer announced that it has increased its board of directors from 10 to 13 members. The most familiar name within the jewelry trade is Francesco Trapani, the former CEO of the Italian jewelry house, Bulgari. The other new members were also associated with high profile companies: Roger Farah, co-CEO of the fashion brand, Tory Burch, and James Lillie, the former CEO of the former consumer products conglomerate, Jarden Corp.

In the same announcement Kowalski said he plans to step down as board chairman.

Bogliolo started his career at the global consulting firm Bain & Co., after graduating from UniversitaÌ Bocconi with a degree in business administration and later completed the International Management Program at HEC Paris. According to his Linkedin profile, he also served as COO of North America for Sephora and as VP of sales and marketing in Greater China for the Piaggio Group, an Italian company that produces scooters, mopeds and motorcycles under several brand names.

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